Rog Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 I don't think Michael Cain would be able to help with this one but I bet there is someone out there in TR land who can. Over the past few months both window winders have decided that they would rather be on the floor than the winder drive. The cotter pin dropped out on each occasion (worn pin and holes). It transpires that neither had coil springs behind the plastic escutcheon and I now understand why!! I had a pair of springs "in stock" and in good "proper job" frame of mind I tried to fit them; no way Is this assembly job one of those that you just persevere with until you get lucky or does someone have any tips? Thanks in anticipation guys & gals. Rog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 Hi Rog, They can be a PITA, but once you get the knack, its like riding a bike Have a look at this link http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/WindowChannel.htm Hope it helps you Regards Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
charlie74 Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 if you have a pair of thin needle nose plier that have a bend in them, it makes life so much easier. at least it did when i did mine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnny250 Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 Guys link looked good until I realised that the writer hadn't fitted the springs either! The only way that I could get mine fitted (with springs, new door cards and escutcheons....making things VERY tight) was to follow the Williams restoration book and use a long length of thick (gas) welding rod instead. I cut a shallow groove around the wire with a junior hacksaw, at the same length as the original pin....push all together and push in the wire...a couple of wiggles side to side snaps off the wire at the groove nice and cleanly. Don't give up! john Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Crawley Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 Or; poke the end of a long bit of coat hanger (or any piece of suitably sized wire) into one side of the escutcheon from the bottom - going with gravity helps when inserting the pin. This holds the escutcheon back so you can see the hole to put the cotter pin in from the top using a pair of long nose pliers; push in the cotter pin &, at the same time, pull out the coat hanger. This method is really quick & painless but I’ve got to admit that the forceps would make it even easier; I will have to raid the fishing tackle box next time! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Crawley Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 Guys link looked good until I realised that the writer hadn't fitted the springs either! The only way that I could get mine fitted (with springs, new door cards and escutcheons....making things VERY tight) was to follow the Williams restoration book and use a long length of thick (gas) welding rod instead. I cut a shallow groove around the wire with a junior hacksaw, at the same length as the original pin....push all together and push in the wire...a couple of wiggles side to side snaps off the wire at the groove nice and cleanly. Don't give up! john I was compiling off line & you beat me to it. Blimey this Williams guy does sometimes seem to go along the right track; but my way is far easier & you can fit the original pin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 The methods outlined are fine, I would just say that to an extent it depends how padded your door cards are. When I fitted my cards from Motobuild, I was quite unable to get the standard springs in. I heated one spring to draw the temper, then cut off the top coil, reshaped it, compressed to about half the original height, re-tempered it, tried again. No way. Despite attacking from all points of the compass Here's the crochet hook on the left, which is through the winder hole, the small pliers + screwdriver holding the handle off the escutcheon, the long-nose pliers advancing with the taper pin which I had previously filed to a slightly sharper taper so it would enter more easily into the hole. In the end, they were fine and tight with no springs at all - it all depends..... Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobIsaacson Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 Hi Rog Very simple; insert electrical screwdriver through the hole inbetween the handle and plastic bit, then hold pin with long nose pliers and insert through hole whilst slowly removing screwdriver. 5 minute job when you get the hang of it! Regards Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PJM Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 I cheat and just use a split pin of the right diameter and length. Use a pair of long nose pliers to get the pin in and then a thin screwdriver to open out the end. As they are relatively soft it is fairly easy to pull them out when necessary and a doddle if you use the screwdriver to close up the open end first. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
andy p Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 All ingenious methods ! As I recall last time I did this (and again soon as am refurbing the door cards/painting doors etc) I loosely attatched the dreaded pin to a thin flat screwdriver with a wrap of masking tape - just enough to hold it in position while it was guided in to the winder hole, then a little wiggle to free it and that was it (after dropping the pin half a dozen times I'll admit !), but got there in the end. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rog Posted June 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 Well, what can I say. I just new TR land would be full of high quality information, sound practical advice and shear inventiveness. And thats why we all all live their isn't it. Thanks to everyone; those springs are going in (nurse, forceps please!) Rog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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