trevor Posted January 20, 2003 Report Share Posted January 20, 2003 Does any one know of a good badge bar to mount a couple of lucas spot lights onto my TR4 or do I have to drill into the bumper as I would rather not remove it and put a' full on' Rally bar? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john minchin Posted January 23, 2003 Report Share Posted January 23, 2003 I think that utilising the bumper mounting points and the bars which go back from the over-riders you could get a solid mounting. I would make it myself. Rigidity is important. At road speed I found 7" halogen headlights pretty good, so much so I did not refit the spots for my second LE JOG. The reversing light was more useful than any spotlight on the front ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rudi Posted January 23, 2003 Report Share Posted January 23, 2003 I'd like to install a lucas repro fluted fog lamp as a reverse light on my TR3A. Any suggestions where/how I should fit it without obstruction for the spare wheel cover? Should it be activated by a simple illuminated switch on the dash? Problem with that is tha the MOT in Belgium does not allow any reverse light that is not activated from the gearbox. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted January 24, 2003 Report Share Posted January 24, 2003 I have fitted a rear fog light to my 3, but I will change it probably to a reversing light. I have made a holder that is mounted under the top bolt of the rear overrider bracket. The light sits between the body and overrider, just above. I do not know if there is a threaded hole in the TR3 gearbox cover, like on the later TR's, but there are switches available to be mounted on the speedo cable, light comes on as soon as the cable rotation is reversed. I had this on my MGB, a loooong time ago, but it worked perfectly. For the front lights as Johns says, especially long range lights, rigidity is paramount as a vibrating beam can cause spatial disorientation, like driving in blowing snow :0 High perfomance lights mostly carry on the housing, rear top, a small adjusting bracket to stabilize and adjust the beam. The bracket is fixed to a solid part of the body or front grill. Jean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Taffy TR Man Posted February 4, 2003 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2003 Not an answer I'm afraid but I too have just taken off the bumpers etc and am looking for a good rally bar to hold some spots... have you seen any decnt ones or am I going to have get one made..? Taffy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest mrodbert Posted February 6, 2003 Report Share Posted February 6, 2003 We did the same mod to our TR4 (bumpers off back and front and fitted the lamp bar that Revington TR (www.revingtontr.co.uk) make and sell. Neil Revington actually owns 2 of the "VC" rally cars so the brackets are replicas of the originals. From Revington's they come in black, but you can paint them any colour you like. I bought one last winter and my experience was as follows. Once you take the bumper off you'll have 2 holes in the front valence and the bumper bracket behind it - one on each side. These need to be used to route the wiring for your new spots, so you need to drill 4 new holes for the bracket - one on each side of the original 2 holes. Getting to the back to tighten the bolts is a pig so make sure you've got as much under car access as possible. DON'T be tempted to just attach to the valence as it wont hold (sorry to patronise). The only other things I can think of is that you need to thread the wiring through the brackets and the bar before you bolt it together or attach the lamps as it wont thread afterwards and you need to gromett (is gromett a verb) the underneath of the bar. All I can say is that having done it our TR4 looks great, especially with a 65w spot and fog light combo up front. Also, having got your TR4 to look like a rally car what rallies are you thinking of doing? Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Taffy TR Man Posted February 7, 2003 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2003 Sorry but should have said - I have a TR6 - I'm preparing for Le Jog 2003 and then something in 2004. I hope to have done enough work by mid year to allow a few sprints etc to test run the car. I posted a question on the Historic Rally section about GRP panels - do you have any experience of those..? Are you rallying..? Thanks for the tip - I will look at Revington Cheers Geoff Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4Tony Posted February 11, 2003 Report Share Posted February 11, 2003 I use a TR Enterprises lamp bar on my rally TR4. Available in both steel and alloy. It bolts to the bumper mountings from the chassis side rail which sit in behind the valance like the Revington works type bar, but is an angle section. It only requires fixing to the captive bolt hole at the end of the bumper stay. Ive painted mine body colour (wedgewood) as they come in bare metal. I use a pair of CIBIE Oscars (again body colour backs) and OMP stainless steel stay bars mounted onto the headlamp panel behind the grille. Te whole lot works very effectively and lights well, without shaking. It is also very sturdy, witnessed by a recent incident where I parked the front end on a large grass bank. valance etc. dented, spot out but bar etc. all ship shape. I have a pair of lovely LUCAS Longrangers mounted on my TR4a front bumper, drilled through. These work well as they are very light and solid lamps with a 'thin' profile. I can imagine heavier lamps (such as the LUCAS SFT 579 type) working well in the same way as they are heavier and the mounting much more floppy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4Tony Posted February 11, 2003 Report Share Posted February 11, 2003 Another thtought - I have a chrome DESMO adjustable bar that is a craking piece of kit - same mounting as the TRE bar but shiny. This may be a good alternative for you if you can find one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest mrodbert Posted February 11, 2003 Report Share Posted February 11, 2003 Agree with Tony on the spot bar front. There were a number of cars on this years Le Jog with what looked like Longrangers attached to bumpers and they seemed to work well. I wish I'd known about the TRE spot bar as drilling holes and attaching the bar was a right pain. However, we can probably suspend the car from the spot bar - whish is probably what you want. Re. your other mail, I dont think GRP panels will be allowed, but you should check in the MSA blue book or in the technical sections of the HERO and HRCR websites. The HERO one probably has the regs for last years JOG which will help. If not I've probably got a copy that I could fax if you want. From memory it says body panels should be as per standard unless modified in period (the works 4s had alloy panels I think). As far as what to do for Le Jog - Reliability, reliability, reliability. Everything on the car will be shaken for 3 days solid and some major stuff WILL come loose. Suspension first: we spent most of the night sections and some of the days with the live rear axle hitting the bump stops about once a second, so they need to be able to take the strain. Also we had a botched brake pipe fix that routed the pipe between axle and bump stop and would have caused squished brake pipe and brown trousers if we hadnt fixed it before the event. The 4 has low clearance as well so a chunky sump guard is vital and raised suspension definitely nice to have. Ancilliaries also have a habit of going, so I would replace dynamo/alternator, fuel pump, and water pump and carry the old ones as spares (a good plan for all replacement parts). The other thing is make sure your electrics are bullit and water proof. Wiring spots on a separate circuit to the mains is also a good idea - we lost mains in Epynt and drove on with spots only. If both had gone the alternatives would have been - fix it; retire; drive backwards all night using the reversing light Also, as far as I can tell what makes cars go faster is brakes, lights, weight and engine, in that order. The HERO site have some good info on preparing cars for these sort of events and the CRA publish a book, which is pretty good. Hope this helps, but mail me if you want some more specific Le Jog tips. By the way, I'm probably doing some HRCR stuff this year - starting with Ilkley if anyone's interested. Would be great to find out what others are doing. Cheers, Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trevor Posted February 14, 2003 Report Share Posted February 14, 2003 I have decided to have a go at making my own mounting bar and am at the prototype stage but a member who is an engineer will make it look more respecable; it does utilise the bumper mounting bolts, more later, The TR enterprises one is only available in ali now and is a hundred pounds. Would be interested to see the Desmo one if TR4 Tony has a pic to email. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4Tony Posted February 17, 2003 Report Share Posted February 17, 2003 email me on tsheach@pba.co.uk and Ill mail a picture. Ill also mail a picture of my car with the TRE sumpguard and spot bar on it. Probably weekend as Im at a planning Inquiry all week, but replacing my clutch (!!!!!! bang) this weekend. Regards Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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