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:lol: Thought the topic title would get your attention.

 

I replaced the prop shaft on my 6 about 10 days ago. The car has since driven 150 miles and will do another 100 this weekend. The prop shaft nuts are new nylocs and were fitted using loctite. The question is do I check tighten the prop shaft nuts to make sure all is well and if so what effect will this have on the loctite i.e. will it still do its job? Or do I give the nuts a good ignoring to unless symptoms dictate otherwise?

 

I am open to suggestions.

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PJM

 

If the Nylocs have been torqued up to the correct amount all should be fine... They shouldn't need the loctite either really...

 

Brgds

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Hello PJM,

 

if you move the nut relative to the bolt when checking, then the loctite will now be ineffective, as it's bond will be broken.

 

As stated in an earlier reply it is unnecessary anyway.

 

Alec

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New Nyloc nuts tightened to the correct torque shouldn’t need checking & your wasting you time & money using Locktight on them, it’s not necessary. Locktight is designed for use on clean, oil free steel fixings &, as Alec says, once you move the nut after the Locktight has cured, the bond is broken & you need to re apply it again.

 

You should never re-use Nyloc nuts; if removed they should be replaced with new.

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Thanks for the advice. I have heard some horror stories about prop shaft nuts coming undone so decided belts, braces and piece of string would be useful. Hence the use of new nylocs and loctite. I shall leave well alone. <_<

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I hope that when you say "loctite" you mean "Lock and Seal", which is made by the same company and is designed to prevent fixing shaking loose. If you really have used the Loctite Super Glue, you'll never get your nuts off!

Ian Cornish

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Hi can I ask, what may be a stupid question..... but............how do you talk up the prop shaft bolts as justing having seprated one from the diff flange I can not see how you can get a socket on set on it and a standard torque wrench ??

 

Is there a special type of torque spanner that can be used ?

 

Many Thanks

 

Jeremy

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Hi can I ask, what may be a stupid question..... but............how do you talk up the prop shaft bolts as justing having seprated one from the diff flange I can not see how you can get a socket on set on it and a standard torque wrench ??

 

Is there a special type of torque spanner that can be used ?

 

Many Thanks

 

Jeremy

Hmmm, I do know what you mean; & there are several other fixings on the car that are difficult to access with a conventional torque wrench. I usually advise using one if possible as it’s easy to get it wrong if you’re inexperienced; rear hub flanges are a prime example with most threads striped & replaced with inserts by now. I may be leaving myself wide open here but, personally, I only use one on engine internals & other critical fixings, everything else I guess! :o

 

It’s not as bad or as daft as it sounds, if you’re experienced you just know when it’s right. I don’t know what other members do but I reckon most experienced engineers/mechanics will do the same; certainly the ones I know do! To give you a good “feel” for the torque you’re achieving, you can practice by doing different size nuts up manually & then checking with a wrench; it’s not an absolute & as long as you’re within 5% it’s not going to matter on non critical applications. ;)

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Hi can I ask, what may be a stupid question..... but............how do you talk up the prop shaft bolts as justing having seprated one from the diff flange I can not see how you can get a socket on set on it and a standard torque wrench ??

 

Is there a special type of torque spanner that can be used ?

 

Many Thanks

 

Jeremy

 

Hi Jeremy

 

I'm with Richard on that one. Most spanners are the length they are to give the appropriate amount of leverage for the size of the nut - assuming that there is an "Average" arm strength for mechanics worldwide! A 15mm spanner is much longer than an 8mm for instance, so doing up the nut on full arm strength (Without pulling a muscle!) will usually get you pretty close with (As Richard points out) a few notable exceptions where soft alloys and fine threads are invloved. You will just get a feel for it tha more you do it.

 

Cheers

 

 

Dave

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I did use a proprietary brand of thread seal not super glue! When I was in the forces we would get mechanics asking how tight nuts had to be, our standard reply was 3 grunts on a short spanner :lol:

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I did use a proprietary brand of thread seal not super glue! When I was in the forces we would get mechanics asking how tight nuts had to be, our standard reply was 3 grunts on a short spanner :lol:

 

 

yeah - three grunts sounds about right :lol:

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