Jack K Posted March 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2008 Thank you! Also, what about the rear cylinders? Everything that can stick has stuck on my car... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob-menhennett Posted March 19, 2008 Report Share Posted March 19, 2008 Jack After you've got the rear cylinders off the car with the usual wire brush/ penetrating oil.etc I would suggest a good old clean up as best you can before attempting to strip down. Pentrating oil /Plus gas/diesel so that it "sits" in the cylinder over night, gentle tapping with a piece wooden dowel.Immerse totally in hot water and top up with boiling water..allow to cool naturally, the expansion and contratcion thing,repeat as necessary.Direct application of either boiling or cold water is NOT recommended, is case it cracks the casting of the cylinder. Repeat in any combination that takes your fancy until the _ _ _ _ _ _ thing lets go. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jack K Posted March 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2008 Repeat in any combination that takes your fancy until the _ _ _ _ _ _ thing lets go. Great! I'll go for it. I got all the brake bits to come off, now I'll get them to come apart as well... That's a good strategy, thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Down Posted March 19, 2008 Report Share Posted March 19, 2008 If you drain all the old fluid out the brake lines and the clutch and if you blow the lines clear with compressed air and if you change all the rubber hoses and seals for all the master and slave cylinders, you can re-fill the system with silicone fluid. This will never cause the paint peel around the master cylinder, etc. like regular brake fluid and its luricating properties will keep everything from rusting or getting jammed in the system. Make sketches of everything you take apart. In my case I was putting my car back together about 2 or 3 years after I had taken it apart. Take lots of digital photos and save them on your computer too. Don is spot on. I have an old TVR that uses silicon brake fluid. During 22 years of ownership I have never replaced the fluid, the seals etc. have never leaked and the braking for my usage is perfect. At the MOT test (yearly vehicle test in the UK) the tester commented in November that the brakes were superb and far better than most modern cars. Also take photos or make sketches its surprising how quickly you forget.... well you may be better in this respect than an old codger like me! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jack K Posted March 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2008 Also take photos or make sketches its surprising how quickly you forget.... well you may be better in this respect than an old codger like me! No, I find photos and sketches immensely helpful... After these tips, I went out and bought a ringbound notebook, and I'm keeping a log of all the work I'm doing, which bits I'm replacing, etc- sketches for everything, and photos taped/glued in! It'll be a nice way to keep track of progress. As for silicone brake fluid, I'll definitely put it in... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest colinTR2 Posted March 20, 2008 Report Share Posted March 20, 2008 Jack To get brake cylinders apart I have used a grease gun, these apply more pressure than an airline but not the volume, so they do not shoot the piston out of the end, I use a grease nipple fitted into the end of a bolt which threads into the pipe connection. You also have to blank the other inlet off. all the best Colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jack K Posted March 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2008 Thanks! I have the brake cylinder apart. I also ordered a whole load of replacements for the rest of the brake system, when they arrive I'll have perfect rear brakes (and handbrake)- only the front ones to go! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob-menhennett Posted March 21, 2008 Report Share Posted March 21, 2008 Jack Great job.Satisfaction or what ? Now the real clean up can start..be meticulous, brakes are vital, a final wash of everything in meths before assembly is recommended. Use either an elastic band or some wire/ smokers pipe cleaners to hold everything together whilst you transfer the unit from your clean work station to the back plate to fix.Put plenty of Copper ease on the fixings. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jack K Posted March 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2008 Forgive my ignorance... What is Copper ease? Don't worry, I'll be cleaning everything! I'll be reliant on these things for my survival, so I'm not making any errors... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jack K Posted March 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2008 I just removed the front brakes, and the disks have a thin layer of surface rust. Is it ok to leave this? Will the first few times I brake remove it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob-menhennett Posted March 22, 2008 Report Share Posted March 22, 2008 Jack Copper Ease is an anti-seize assembly compound that withstands heat up to 1150 degees, hence brilliant for brake components.The tub I have at the moment is produced by Comma but there are other producers.It's copper coloured and like thick grease, it sticks well and doesn't wash off.I pinched one of my wife's short make up brushes and use that to liberally coat any fixing/ nut/ bolt/sliding piece of metal, etc that is likely to be exposed to either dirt and/ or water.Taking components to bits, years later, is a breeze.The Copper ease sticks to your skin but eventally washes off, so use latex gloves. A bit of surface rust on discs is normal whenever there is moisture in the air.You can rub it down before putting the caliper back on if you like.Just spinning the hub on the jacked up car, with emery paper on a wooden block would do the trick,wash down with Meths after.Otherwise the first application of brakes should do the trick if the rust is only light.The usual scenario for testing the brakes after reftting,somebody pushing on the brakes whilst you look for leaks then a quiet road, a few gentle applications of the brake before firmer pressure is applied. Hope you can find an American equivalent for copper ease, it's great stuff. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jack K Posted March 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2008 I'm sure it's out there! I'll have a look. I certainly want to avoid stuck surfaces the next time I put everything together! Sounds like good stuff. Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jack K Posted March 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2008 I just got a new rear brake cylinder, and the little circular piece at the closed end is not lying flat, but held up so there's a gap. Will this leak? Or is the pad just there as something so the lower brake shoe doesn't wreck the exterior of the cylinder? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob-menhennett Posted March 22, 2008 Report Share Posted March 22, 2008 Jack 3s are a little different to my 4 ,so can I be clear as to what you have got on the back brakes.Is it a Lockhead system or Girling system? The Moss catologue will show diagrams of the different types. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jack K Posted March 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2008 It's the Girling. There's a little metal disc retained at the closed end of the cylinder by two tongues... Sorry if that's a bit abstract! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob-menhennett Posted March 23, 2008 Report Share Posted March 23, 2008 Jack Girling...good.If I were in your shoes I think I would exchange for another.The metal "disc" should lie flat so that the end of the shoe sits flush.If it were not flat the shoe would rest on it's edge and might wobble ( a bit exaggerated but you know what I mean ).The joy of repro parts quality control !! Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
I used to have one of those! Posted March 24, 2008 Report Share Posted March 24, 2008 Hi, my name's Jack, I'm 16 and live in NJ, USA. Been in the business of restoring a Morris Minor since 13, got a brand new project this birthday- Alfie, the TR3. Actually not looking like that now! Came (contrary to the photo) with an engine, gearbox, lots of other parts, but not quite everything to complete. I took the body off, and have the chassis on blocks with the rear wheels off- I had the intention of removing the brakes, but I ran into a sticky patch. Can anyone help? My car is #47somethinghundred, but I'm not sure which hub system that is. I removed the castellated nut, plain washer and am stuck; there's now the hub in the way, and it won't come off, so I can't get the drum off. I read that you need a special tool to remove the hub. Is this true? Incidentally, the shipper- since that photo was taken- smashed the front panel, splitting it at the top of the grille hole and denting it (as well as denting the wing behind). I hear it's really expensive, that panel- is it worth going after the shipper? Hi Jack Again, welcome to the world of TR's! These postings are like watching one of those films, you know, where the control tower has to talk down a jumbo jet, after all of the crew have got food poisoning, and the only person left to fly it has a huge chip on his shoulder because his Father caused the death of his best friend in the war - it's great! I'm not very mechanically, so cannot help with most of this stuff as I have no idea what you are talking about. However, one thing concerns me - I thought ALL TR's were called Trevor, except the 5 I owned which was called Ronny? On a serious note, you are the right side of the "pond" for spare parts. There is still loads and loads of TR stuff your side and I wouldn't have thought that a replacement front panel would be that hard to find. However, I agree that it doesn't sound too bad, more annoying really, so I would have a go at compensation from the shipper - he should be insured. 16! Good luck Simon Westlake Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jack K Posted March 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2008 These postings are like watching one of those films, you know, where the control tower has to talk down a jumbo jet, after all of the crew have got food poisoning, and the only person left to fly it has a huge chip on his shoulder because his Father caused the death of his best friend in the war - it's great! Quite a comparison... Just to clarify, I hope I don't have a chip on my shoulder! I'm nice really, I promise! Just a little inexperienced with the TR... As for the name, I know it's sacrilege, but I liked it when I thought it up and hey, you broke the rules so why shouldn't I?.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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