AP Clutches

[stuart]

AP have apparently taken on board all the complaints about clutch plates of the 3 rivet variety disintegrating and are now doing them as per original so all new stock should be ok now.

Stuart.

[BrianC]

AP have apparently taken on board all the complaints about clutch plates of the 3 rivet variety disintegrating and are now doing them as per original so all new stock should be ok now.

Stuart.

So watch out for shed-loads of bargain clutch plates on eBay and at autojumbles as everyone tries to unload the duff variety - caveat emptor

[Kneeslider]

Are they going to do swaps for all those people who have ended up with a clutch plate in two bits? I for one would appreciate that, even though I bought a nos B&B clutch plate at Stoneleigh the other week. Mine broke in July, but for a variety of reasons have had my car off the road for some extra work.

[BrianC]

Given that AP appear to have conceded that there is a design fault with the 3 rivet version, I would have thought all those affected should be able to claim either a swap or refund. In the case of those who have suffered damage and/or had to purchase alternative replacements, they should claim for the additional cost, including labour. I'm not a lawyer, but if the product supplied was not fit for purpose, I assume there must be a case for compensation, although it would probably be sensible to put in any claim in writing to the supplier and copy to AP.

[spiro]

AP have apparently taken on board all the complaints about clutch plates of the 3 rivet variety disintegrating and are now doing them as per original so all new stock should be ok now.

Stuart.

 

Glad to hear about AP clutches, can't help but think if my article in the TR mag back last Sept. did get read by someone who had some influence after all. If it was via the TR register all I can say is well done

Cheers

Spiro

Copy of the artical below

 

It seems my issue with my clutch failure in Greece is not an isolated incident and that there maybe a common fault with these AP centre plates. Having read the comments on the TR forum on the subject of '"TR clutch warning'' I can't but think that a pattern emerging to support this opinion and that there has been a few failures in the same manner and area of the centre plate. Can the club voice be more effective than that of an individual when it comes to contacting a manufacturer? You cannot blame the suppliers as they can only supply what is available by a manufacturer.

A look at the original centre plate shows that there are 16 rivets on the centre plate, whereas the AP has only 3 rivets trying to do the same job as the original. It comes to mind a saying I once herd ''designed by an account and not by an engineer''

 

In my case a refund was agreed by my supplier for the part but it seems that the reply back from the manufacture, their view of the fault (over the phone of course!) is 'that this is a rare fault on this type of clutch plate, if the centre boss breaks away from the outer area via the rivets it is often caused by misalignment of the engine and gearbox, worn bearings in the front end of the gearbox or sudden jolt in the drive train.

Which seems to be the same answer on most occasion to others on the TR forum.

 

In my case the gear box had all the bearing replaced with new, plus the spigot bush was new and that the whole car had a major restoration and I am aware of issues of misalignment and the effect of forcing components into place as I have been in the motor trade for over 28yrs. How many others who don't use the TR forum but only read the club Magazine are or have encountered this problem and like myself at first, think that it is a rare thing to happen, or is it?

[88V8]

Glad to hear about AP clutches, can't help but think if my article in the TR mag back last Sept. did get read by someone who had some influence after all. If it was via the TR register all I can say is well done

 

Copy of the artical below

I am aware of issues of misalignment and the effect of forcing components into place as I have been in the motor trade for over 28yrs. How many others who don't use the TR forum but only read the club Magazine are or have encountered this problem and like myself at first, think that it is a rare thing to happen, or is it?

 

Mention of misalignment - and obviously I'm not saying that was the problem here - brings to mind an excellent article I found quite by chance while looking for something else. It features an extensive contribution from a Tom Fremont, I assume the Tom Fremont, who is of the view that misalignment is indeed the problem in some cases of clutch failure. The article leads off about Laycock and Borg & Beck problems, and Tom's input appears from page 10. I think it's worth reading as an adjunct to your achievement.

 

I'm posting this as it was written a while ago and I guess the content may be unfamiliar to some of the newer owners like me.

 

http://www.vtr.org/maintain/clutch-laycock.pdf

 

Ivor

[Tom Fremont]

Mention of misalignment - and obviously I'm not saying that was the problem here - brings to mind an excellent article I found quite by chance while looking for something else. It features an extensive contribution from a Tom Fremont, I assume the Tom Fremont, who is of the view that misalignment is indeed the problem in some cases of clutch failure. The article leads off about Laycock and Borg & Beck problems, and Tom's input appears from page 10. I think it's worth reading as an adjunct to your achievement.

 

I'm posting this as it was written a while ago and I guess the content may be unfamiliar to some of the newer owners like me.

 

http://www.vtr.org/maintain/clutch-laycock.pdf

 

Ivor

 

Guilty as charged, Ivor Seems I was goaded into a writing a thesis on it ( made me tired reading it just now ).

 

I have a correction to make - the hole size in the bell housing is actally 11/32", not 21/64" which is smaller. I've also since become acquainted with the factory dowel locations of 3/8" diameter, so they were originally well-aligned. I did however use the 11/32" drill bits on my latest fitment since they were tighter in their respective holes than were the 3/8" dowels, so presumably were marginally more accurate.