HAB832C Posted February 15, 2008 Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 Can anyone describe to me - or better, provide me with a jpeg - of the fitting of the headlining edges, inside the Surrey Hardtop? I've got all the cross-struts sorted and, clearly, the front and sides edges are trapped by the draught exluder but what happens at the rear? It's not obvious (at least to me!). The lining was stripped out 4 years ago but I failed to keep a reference of this area. Any help would be appreciated. Many thanks, John & HAB832C Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted February 20, 2008 Report Share Posted February 20, 2008 I don't know if you've solved this problem yet, but I'm about to embark on the same job. Lynda's TR4A came with a stripped steel lid plus all the old fittings and some new headlining material. A local trimmer is going to stitch the new material up for the cross-struts (cantrail listing rods?). He said he has done a TR steel Surrey before so hopefully he will remember how the edges are treated. I'm also assuming that the rubber seals should be glued to the lid rather than left loose. Hopefully, I'll let you know what transpires in a few days. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HAB832C Posted February 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2008 I don't know if you've solved this problem yet, but I'm about to embark on the same job. Lynda's TR4A came with a stripped steel lid plus all the old fittings and some new headlining material. A local trimmer is going to stitch the new material up for the cross-struts (cantrail listing rods?). He said he has done a TR steel Surrey before so hopefully he will remember how the edges are treated. I'm also assuming that the rubber seals should be glued to the lid rather than left loose. Hopefully, I'll let you know what transpires in a few days. Thanks for the reply, Brian. The top is still in the dining room (!) awaiting resolution. Regarding seals, there is a large rubber seal that glues to the front lip (mine from Moss needs to be located in the bolt holes and stretched half an inch or so to do this). The left and right side rubber seals (same stuff as the door seals) fit in the channels on the sides, and I've got a semi-circular profile seal rubber that must glue on the back lip somewhere - but don't know where. The fabric lining is as you describe but I'm still beaten by how it fits at the rear. Let's keep in touch Best wishes John & HAB832C Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted May 2, 2008 Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 I've already PM'd John but just thought I'd update this thread for the benefit of anyone else contemplating this job. Got the headlining fitted at last. It was great to see a craftsman at work - he made it look so easy. Unfortunately I couldn't get any photos, but it was all quite straightforward. The key is to fit and glue things in the right sequence, and not trim off any excess until you are certain everything is tight and straight. 1) Glue sound-deadening mat to roof. 2 ) Fit front rail first and work backwards to fit the others. 3 ) Glue rear of headlining to the rear bracing strut. 4 ) Glue front of headlining. 5 ) Glue sides of headlining. (Wrap over as much as you can and trim off the excess to about 1/2" all round when it is fully dried). 6 ) Glue the front seal (mine came from TRGB - probably via Moss- and seemed to fit without any stretching). 7 ) Glue the rear seal onto the vertical face of the rear bracing strut. (This will overlap the 1/2" headlining which has been wrapped over). You may have a different profile rear seal. Again, mine came from TRGB and was a flat section approx 1" x 3/16". 8 ) Slide the side seals into their channels. 9 ) Fit the full length furflex trim. (Mine was a self-gripping type and needed no glue or trim clips). 10 ) Fit the external chrome/stainless rear trim (if you haven't already done it). 11 ) Bolt it on and drive home, marvelling at the lack of wind noise, drumming and rattling (at least from above!). If anyone needs any clarification or further guidance, PM me. I will try to take some photos the next time the hardtop comes off (if ever ). I also have the dismantled remains of the original headlining if anyone needs to borrow them as a pattern. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Besalu Posted September 3, 2023 Report Share Posted September 3, 2023 John, Brian, good information here. I am making a list of all the parts and seals i need to restore a steel hardtop. This is what i have written down so far. From Moss: https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/weather-equipment/hard-tops/surrey-top-fittings-tr4-4a-1961-67.html 34 HEADLINING ASSEMBLY, white 36 DRAUGHT EXCLUDER, black Notes: Per metre, 3 metres required 37 RUBBER, sealing to windscreen top (Furflex) 38 RUBBER, sealing to cantrail 39 RUBBER, sealing roof to backlight 40 CAPPING, rear (Not available but have seen member TR Tony selling them for 200 quid) Am i missing anything? On another thread Stuart gives a very good detailed description how to fit the head lining and recommended glue; https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1263-heat-resistant-adhesive Stuart, if you read this, on yet another thread you mention the following door seal (is this a better option for part number 36 draught excluder)? https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1285-door-seal With regards to the fixing bolts i understand front and back are different lengths and both 5/16 unf although i read some members insert thread in to the captive bolts and then screw on from the inside. Not sure yet which way i will go. Any other tips or advice from any members would be greatly appreciated. Any particular supplier recommended over any other? Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 3, 2023 Report Share Posted September 3, 2023 4 hours ago, Besalu said: John, Brian, good information here. I am making a list of all the parts and seals i need to restore a steel hardtop. This is what i have written down so far. From Moss: https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/weather-equipment/hard-tops/surrey-top-fittings-tr4-4a-1961-67.html 34 HEADLINING ASSEMBLY, white 36 DRAUGHT EXCLUDER, black Notes: Per metre, 3 metres required 37 RUBBER, sealing to windscreen top (Furflex) 38 RUBBER, sealing to cantrail 39 RUBBER, sealing roof to backlight 40 CAPPING, rear (Not available but have seen member TR Tony selling them for 200 quid) Am i missing anything? On another thread Stuart gives a very good detailed description how to fit the head lining and recommended glue; https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1263-heat-resistant-adhesive Stuart, if you read this, on yet another thread you mention the following door seal (is this a better option for part number 36 draught excluder)? https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1285-door-seal With regards to the fixing bolts i understand front and back are different lengths and both 5/16 unf although i read some members insert thread in to the captive bolts and then screw on from the inside. Not sure yet which way i will go. Any other tips or advice from any members would be greatly appreciated. Any particular supplier recommended over any other? Richard The door seal from Woolies goes all the way round the door apertures from the top of the screen frame one side and over the froward edge of the rear frame round the other door aperture and up to the screen capping the other side.. Item 36 is actually a furflex and I use this one https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-996-plush-snappon-edge-trim-black No37 is a rubber seal that sandwiches between the front of the roof and the screen capping. Fixing bolts you do need to be careful with as too long will put a nice pimple in the outer skin! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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