tr4 front suspension

[mandarawessels]

Hi

Does anyone know a way around using the special tool to remove the front springs?

I have removed engine and all other bits from the chassis and now

i can't get the shocks out because of lack of weight!

thans, John

[Rhodri]

John, the shocks unbolt, complete with bracket , at the bottom, and again at the top. They just come out through the bottom of the spring pan , no need for a tool until you remove the springs. I took mine to bits as a bare chassis with no engine , body etc. I do remember getting a long bar and levering the top wishbone up, using the suspension turret as the fulcrum. This was to enable me to release the bottom bumpstop bracket, with 4 bolts going through it. I can not remember if this made getting the shocker out easier, or the spring easier. Need a mate to keep a bit of pressure on the bar !

[Sean7575]

A length of threaded bar, about M12 and long enough to fit where the original tool would go, some washers and nuts and you can do the job in the same way as using the original tool. I used this method recently with no problems. If you need more detail drop me a PM.

Sean

 

Just noted the bit about the shocks, mine came out with some WD40 and gentle persuasion, no tool needed!

Edited January 23, 2008 by Sean7575

[vivdownunder]

Hi John,

 

The best time the remove the front shockers and springs is with the engine weight still on the chassis, as when unloaded, you can see that it jambs down on the chassis rail. However, without that weight, a couple of planks across the front of the chassis with bricks on will allow you to release the shockers. (wheels fitted). Heavier solid bricks are better than wirecuts, as you need less quantity. (Hope you understand builder speak). Rubbish bins full of water might work, but you do need quite a bit of weight.

 

After the shockers are out, then you can make up a spring compressor from threaded rod as Sean describes. For safety you must use a spring compressor that goes up through the middle of the spring, with sturdy plates or washers across the top of the tower, and beneath the spring pan. I use two nuts top and bottom on mine.

 

Safety first - double check everything.

 

Cheers,

 

Viv.

[stuart]

Its quite easy to make up a spring compressor that works every bit as good as a proper Churchill tool see attached images.The flat plate goes up under the spring pan i.e. top of the tool is on the left.

Stuart

Edited January 24, 2008 by stuart

[ianc]

As I have said more than once before on this Forum, external clamps are useless and exceedingly dangerous because the force locked up in the spring is considerable. The simple threaded bar, shown in the preceding photos, will serve as well as the Churchill tool (I have both, as my brother made a tool for both of us back in the mid-1960s, then later I found a brand-new Churchill tool). It is not worth risking life and limb (I am not joking), let alone the bodywork of your beloved TR by taking chances.

Would you crawl beneath your car if it were supported solely on a hydraulic jack? I would hope not - axle stands (or something similar) are vital, as one cannot guarantee that a seal won't blow on a hydraulic jack.

Be safe and live to enjoy your TR!

Ian Cornish

[mandarawessels]

John, the shocks unbolt, complete with bracket , at the bottom, and again at the top. They just come out through the bottom of the spring pan , no need for a tool until you remove the springs. I took mine to bits as a bare chassis with no engine , body etc. I do remember getting a long bar and levering the top wishbone up, using the suspension turret as the fulcrum. This was to enable me to release the bottom bumpstop bracket, with 4 bolts going through it. I can not remember if this made getting the shocker out easier, or the spring easier. Need a mate to keep a bit of pressure on the bar !

 

Thanks every-one for your input especially all the concerns re safety!

I managed to get the lower bufferbracket out and after that it was very easy to get the shock out.

I can easely make up a spring compressor with the tool described by Stuart

 

Once the spring is compressed I will have to:

undo the 6 bolts and nuts that join the springpan to the wishbones and then slowly release the compressor, is that correct?

Cheers, John.

Edited January 24, 2008 by mandarawessels

[stuart]

Thanks every-one for your input especially all the concerns re safety!

I managed to get the lower bufferbracket out and after that it was very easy to get the shock out.

I can easely make up a spring compressor with the tool described by Stuart

 

Once the spring is compressed I will have to:

undo the 6 bolts and nuts that join the springpan to the wishbones and then slowly release the compressor, is that correct?

Cheers, John.

John I find it easier to wind the compressor up until the suspension arms are level and then insert a piece of steel or hard wood across the top of the turret under the top wishbones then unwind the compressor slightly until the top arms are locked, then when you have removed the bolts and nuts and/ or rollbar brackets then unwind the compressor. That way the pan comes down square and doesnt catch the inner ears on the edge of the chassis or chafe down the studs. (especially recommended for nicely painted or powder coated chassis to prevent chips)

Stuart.

[mandarawessels]

John I find it easier to wind the compressor up until the suspension arms are level and then insert a piece of steel or hard wood across the top of the turret under the top wishbones then unwind the compressor slightly until the top arms are locked, then when you have removed the bolts and nuts and/ or rollbar brackets then unwind the compressor. That way the pan comes down square and doesnt catch the inner ears on the edge of the chassis or chafe down the studs. (especially recommended for nicely painted or powder coated chassis to prevent chips)

Stuart.

 

 

Got that Stuart.

I'll have a go tonight.

Those 6 bolts are pretty hard to shift!! maybe a bit of heat will do the trick!!

Cheers, John.

[mandarawessels]

Hi Guys,

Got the 2 springs out and it was easier than I thought.

The 'tool' cost me all of 4 pound!!

Only had to remove 2 grease nipples to let the springpan slide down smoothly.

I did not have the guts to compress the spring so far that i could put a block of wood under the upper wishbone, Stuart!!

Anyway on to the next hurdle.

Thanks everybody.

Cheers, John.