3A petrol tabk - to seal or not to seal

[angelfj]

In the final stages of the 7 year restoration of TS58476 LO - I have heard pros and cons concerning sealants for the inside of the petrol tank. One of my favorite suppliers, Eastwood, recommends their package.

 

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product...temType=PRODUCT

 

 

They state that there is no sure way to be sure you get all of the crude out of an old tank. Of course they are promoting their business but, I was just wondering if there is a consensus here on the forum.

Edited October 27, 2007 by angelfj

[BrianC]

I haven't done this myself but there is an excellent article (by Ian Cornish if I remember correctly) on the TR Register 'Technicalities' CDROM, which highlights the potential dangers and how best to avoid them. If you haven't got it, do try to beg, borrow or steal a copy before attempting to seal your tank. I believe it can be done safely and can be effective. I'm sure Ian will be able to summarise the process. If all else fails I can probably email you the relevant article.

[ianc]

If you haven't got the CD or my original article in TRaction (cannot recall which number as am away from home today), send me an e-mail (ifcornish@btinternet.com) and I should be able to supply the article (throw anything away - you MUST be joking!).

Ian Cornish

[Don Elliott]

In 1990, just after completing my restoration, I found that I had a leak in the tank in my TR3A. It was at a spot that I had discovered about 10 years before and had brazed it. But it was leaking so I took it out and took it to a radiator and tank shop to have them repair the leak. They said they would not weld or braze it as they didn't want it to explode. but they offered to seal it inside with a mixed epoxy for $100.00. This is what they did. Since then, I have never had a problem and the glass sediment bowl under my mechanical fuel pump is almost always clean. Each winter, I leave a minimum amount of fuel in the tank and the car is stored in my warm dry garage all winter. In the spring, I fill it up with high octane and have never had any problems because the inside of the tank is sealed.

 

For the green TR3A we finished in 2006, the tank was full of rust. We did everything to vacuum the inside. Then we mixed the product made and sold by POR-15. I think it is the same as the Eastwood product and much cheaper. I "slushed" the mix inside the tank and let it cure for several months. The sealer caused any remaining rust to become "encapsulated" into the sealer and now it won't move through the outlet pipe or block it. After several months, we were ready to test the car, so we added fuel to the tank. Make sure that the sealer after it is cured does not leave the outlet drain blocked. Also check that the sealer doesn't leave a "flap" that might open and close the outlet at the bottom of the tank.

 

Frank - I'd go for it.

Edited October 27, 2007 by Don Elliott

[Trevor S]

Frank, See also the topic started on 6th Dec 2006 in the TR4/4A section headed "Fuel tank: replace or do gloops work?"

Regards

Trevor.

[ianc]

From a well-known TR supplier/workshop, I had a strong recommendation of the services of the following company for repairs to petrol tanks:

Northern Radiators of 3 Dolly Lane, Leeds, LS9 7TU

Tel 0113 243 5051

website www.radiatorsonline.co.uk

If you don't want to do the job yourself, this could be the place to go (not much help to those on the other side of the Pond, of course!).

Ian Cornish