Chemical Cleaning

[HeswallTR3]

Hi

 

I have been recommended to chemically clean my block prior to rebuild, I have found a company that will cleanses with a combination of water and chemicals called Micro Engineering in Warrington, does anyone know about this process and what questions I should be asking

 

Cheers

 

Keith

[Don Elliott]

When I restored my 1958 TR3A from 1987 to 1990, I bought a large sturdy polyethylene plastic tray about 20" wide by 30" long with 6" sidewalls. I lowered the hoist holding the engine just above the tray and cleaned off all the grease, etc. with a solvent we call Varsol or white mineral spirits. I scrubbed with a stiff brush designed for this sort of cleaning. I'd say it all cost me about $30.00 (£15.00) and I found it cheaper and easier than trying to lug this greasy lump to a shop for chemical cleaning. After all the grease was off, I took a wire brush and manually scrubbed it down to bare iron. Then I did my tansmission and rear axle, one end at a time. Later as parts were removed, like the oil pan and valve cover, distributor, etc, I used this tray to catch the solvent while I cleaned these items separately.

 

I still have this tray and a few days ago, I mixed up a batch of concrete in it.

[tony-qld]

When I restored my 1958 TR3A from 1987 to 1990, I bought a large sturdy polyethylene plastic tray about 20" wide by 30" long with 6" sidewalls. I lowered the hoist holding the engine just above the tray and cleaned off all the grease, etc. with a solvent we call Varsol or white mineral spirits. I scrubbed with a stiff brush designed for this sort of cleaning. I'd say it all cost me about $30.00 (£15.00) and I found it cheaper and easier than trying to lug this greasy lump to a shop for chemical cleaning. After all the grease was off, I took a wire brush and manually scrubbed it down to bare iron. Then I did my tansmission and rear axle, one end at a time. Later as parts were removed, like the oil pan and valve cover, distributor, etc, I used this tray to catch the solvent while I cleaned these items separately.

 

I still have this tray and a few days ago, I mixed up a batch of concrete in it.

I think that the chemically cleaning that tiger is referring to is a caustic bath that cleans out all the waterways and oil galleries in the block. You would be mad not to do it. Why not start with a Block that is as clean as possible.

[Rhodri]

Is there any alloy on the engine- cam bearings? The caustic will dissolve them if not careful.

[Don Elliott]

Tony - My block was relatively clean inside. From new I had always used an antifreeze mix. That was in 1987 at 80,350 miles. After another 17 years of driving another 94,000 miles I took it all apart this past spring. It was still clean inside.

 

Many years ago during a business trip to Hong Kong, I looked up a TR Register member who was living there but who is now a TR4 owner in UK. He came down to the dock to meet me at the ferry. He had his TR6 with him and just that afternoon, he had picked it up from the shop where thery had used a caustic to clean out his block and the core plugs had eaten through. We had to stop several times driving back up Mount Victoria to refill the radiator. It was touch and go whether we would make it before we might seize the engine

[tony-qld]

Tony - My block was relatively clean inside. From new I had always used an antifreeze mix. That was in 1987 at 80,350 miles. After another 17 years of driving another 94,000 miles I took it all apart this past spring. It was still clean inside.

 

Many years ago during a business trip to Hong Kong, I looked up a TR Register member who was living there but who is now a TR4 owner in UK. He came down to the dock to meet me at the ferry. He had his TR6 with him and just that afternoon, he had picked it up from the shop where thery had used a caustic to clean out his block and the core plugs had eaten through. We had to stop several times driving back up Mount Victoria to refill the radiator. It was touch and go whether we would make it before we might seize the engine

The caustic baths do eat out cam bearings and core plugs but if you are going to all the trouble of a total strip and rebuild wouldnt it be a bit silly not to do it properly and fit new cam bearings and core plugs.

[ianc]

I agree entirely with the last comment. Don't forget that in the 1950s, many owners used ant-freeze only in winter - otherwise it was just water, and that meant corrosion. The core plugs will have been slowly rusting away over the past 50 years, and if you don't remove them now, then Sod's Law says that one of the first failures your restored engine will suffer will be ... you've guessed it! If all the internal oil and waterways are cleaned thoroughly, all that sediment which accumulated from the water/anti-freeze at the bottom of the liners is removed, you have the best chance of trouble-free motoring for years to come. Of course, it is important to ensure that all traces of the agent (caustic or whatever) have been neutralised and washed away, before new core plugs (with sealant), bearings etc are installed.

Back in the mid-1960s, my brother's TR3 had so much hardened sediment at the base of the liners, that, although the drain tap on the block had been open for a year (we hadn't realised!), no water whatsoever had ever leaked out! We had to drive a steel rod through the debris to clear the rubbish from round the base of the liners.

Ian Cornish