Stator Tube

[Trevor S]

I am just completing the rebuild of the steering box for my TR2 resto. I note the cover plate is dated September 54 which tallies with the car's age so assume it is the original one. Apart from initial problems trying to seperate the drop arm lever from the rocker shaft all seem to have gone to plan. I'm using the Revington cover plate as I haven't renewed the cam which seems OK. Anyway my question is, should I grease or oil the outer surface of the stator tube which presumably stays static whilst the inner steering column moves around it or should I leave it dry. I haven't attempted to remove the stator tube from the inner column yet and note the Haynes book refers to anti rattle springs. (Not the anti rattle ring between the inner and outer column) Do they come out with the stator tube or do they remain within the inner column ? Is there any problem or knack needed in getting the stator tube back inside the inner coulmn and correctly located against the anti rattle springs wherever they may be or does it all just slide back together ?

Any advice gratefully received as hopefully this will be the only time I will do this job.

Thanks in advance

Trevor.

[stuart]

I am just completing the rebuild of the steering box for my TR2 resto. I note the cover plate is dated September 54 which tallies with the car's age so assume it is the original one. Apart from initial problems trying to seperate the drop arm lever from the rocker shaft all seem to have gone to plan. I'm using the Revington cover plate as I haven't renewed the cam which seems OK. Anyway my question is, should I grease or oil the outer surface of the stator tube which presumably stays static whilst the inner steering column moves around it or should I leave it dry. I haven't attempted to remove the stator tube from the inner column yet and note the Haynes book refers to anti rattle springs. (Not the anti rattle ring between the inner and outer column) Do they come out with the stator tube or do they remain within the inner column ? Is there any problem or knack needed in getting the stator tube back inside the inner coulmn and correctly located against the anti rattle springs wherever they may be or does it all just slide back together ?

Any advice gratefully received as hopefully this will be the only time I will do this job.

Thanks in advance

Trevor.

Trevor the anti rattle springs are just short pieces of tube with lots of splits in them and then compressed to splay the centre section out to stop the tube rattling against the steering tube they will come out on the tube. Oil it when fitting as it will slide in easier. Be careful fitting the olive to the bottom of the tube when re assembling as other wise it will leak oil and dont over tighten the gland nut as its brass and can be a b*****r to catch the thread correctly.

Stuart.

[Trevor S]

Stuart, Thanks very much for such a speedy and concise response. When I was typing my query I had hoped that you would see it in view of your knowegeable answers to other forum topics.

I didn't want to pull the tube out and then find I couldn't get it back again, or break/bend something as I believe the tubes are no longer made.

Thanks again

Trevor.

[I used to have one of those!]

I am just completing the rebuild of the steering box for my TR2 resto. I note the cover plate is dated September 54 which tallies with the car's age so assume it is the original one. Apart from initial problems trying to seperate the drop arm lever from the rocker shaft all seem to have gone to plan. I'm using the Revington cover plate as I haven't renewed the cam which seems OK. Anyway my question is, should I grease or oil the outer surface of the stator tube which presumably stays static whilst the inner steering column moves around it or should I leave it dry. I haven't attempted to remove the stator tube from the inner column yet and note the Haynes book refers to anti rattle springs. (Not the anti rattle ring between the inner and outer column) Do they come out with the stator tube or do they remain within the inner column ? Is there any problem or knack needed in getting the stator tube back inside the inner coulmn and correctly located against the anti rattle springs wherever they may be or does it all just slide back together ?

Any advice gratefully received as hopefully this will be the only time I will do this job.

Thanks in advance

Trevor.

 

Hi Trevor

 

Simon Westlake here. I have never personally had a problem removing or installing a stator tube. The main problem I have come across is removing the wiring loom to the control head (horn boss) as they always seem to be stuck solid inside the stator.

 

I have a couple of the spring clips/washers that Stuart mentions if you need them. 07977 258506

 

Thanks Simon

[stuart]

Stuart, Thanks very much for such a speedy and concise response. When I was typing my query I had hoped that you would see it in view of your knowegeable answers to other forum topics.

I didn't want to pull the tube out and then find I couldn't get it back again, or break/bend something as I believe the tubes are no longer made.

Thanks again

Trevor.

Trevor i think you can still get stator tubes for Healey 3000 that are very similar if not longer from SC Parts,

Stuart.

[Menno van Rij]

I also believed that they were nog longer made. How wrong I was! After buying all stator tubes that I could lay my hands on (I have 4 spares now...), I found an alternative.

 

A few years back, I visited a local construction workshop for a metal beam in my to-be-renovated house. I also asked them about fabricating a new fuel tank (too expensive at that timen), when I saw that they had all sorts of tubing in stock. And yes, they did have lenghts of tubing with the right diameter. I think that any construction workshop can order the right tubing. Only, the tubing has to be cut for size. So it's cheaper to buy together.

 

After my encounter with off-the-shelf stator tubing, I found out that suppliers of TR parts overhere in Holland have found the same route!

 

About oiling the tube in your car: there's a blanket off hole halfway the steering colomn. Originally, it's for oiling the steering colomn and steering box with a light oil. A few years back, I asked about this subject on the forum. When you search the forum, there's more info on that subject.

 

Regards,

 

Menno

[vivdownunder]

Hi Trevor,

 

Just a couple of things that might help as a check list.

 

(a) Presume you know of the 3 grub screws in the steering wheel boss and the gland nut and olive at the bottom to get the stator tube out.

( Mark all your wiring at the bottom of the stator tube so you can reconnect it correctly

©Refit the stator with the steering wheel in the 12 o'clock position so the indicators cancel correctly.

(d) Check all your wiring covering in the stator for possible shorts before you refit.

(e) To refit the stator I temporarily tape all the inner wires together into one bundle so they feed through easier.

(f) As Stuart says, only tighten the gland nut sufficient to stop the stator tube rotating

(g) If you use Penrite Steering Lube (slumping grease) in the steering box, it will never leak out and allow the box to run dry.

(h) I replace the inadequate felt bush at the top of the steering column with one turned from nylon which never wears out.

 

Good luck with it.

 

Cheers,

 

Viv.

Edited September 27, 2007 by vivdownunder

[stuart]

Also dont forget when you fill the box use the hole in the outer tube just above the actual steering box itself as this ensures that the top bearing is lubricated properly rather than just the "splash lubrication" that it originally got.

Stuart.

[Trevor S]

Thank you to all who have taken the trouble to reply and help me out and provide your words of wisdom. Hopefully I will get time to complete the steering box rebuild this weekend.

This forum and the people who bring it alive are excellent. Being able to get sound advice from across the world within a few hours of asking a question is just brilliant.

Thanks again Trevor.