mikesloan Posted September 3, 2007 Report Share Posted September 3, 2007 I have an internal rattle from my TR4 heater. Presumably the core is loose or the insulation has gone. Any wise words before I take it out of the car, please? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob-menhennett Posted September 10, 2007 Report Share Posted September 10, 2007 Mike Sorry to hear of your problem.Unfortunately there is no way....(that I know of ) to fix the problem in situ, simply because of the angle of the flap at the bottom of the heater.Access is pretty nigh impossible unless you are very, very small and multi jointed !! The usual health and safety regs apply..disconect battery before poking around under the dash.Remove seats.Pull out the heater control knob prior to emptying the coolant,towels and have an empty ice cream carton at the ready when you disconnect the heater hoses under the dash.Plug the two holes...it's surprising how much water will still be in the heater assembly. Optional but removing the glove box might give you a better view of things. Disconnect wiring to the fan, and air duct control cable ( don't lose the small screw and trunion bits put them somewhere safe ) Remove demister hoses from each side of the heater. Remove fixing on left hand side of heater (looking to front of car ) Three bolts to remove...fixing of heater to the underside of the fascia/bulkhead.catch the washers and spacers for re-assembly later.Take out passenger side...more room to juggle. Once out of the car, empty the remaining water.Access to the interior is through the side panel where the water pipes exit.The perimeter of the casing has a series of small grub screws.Once open,you will see where the radiator/ heater exchanger sits and find the remnants of the sponge disintergated. I suggest a good blast of water through the radiator bit and then reverse the flow, and wire brush the pipe ends. Make sure you fit "closed cell" sponge (the type that doesn't let in water) back in place.I bought some off- cuts from a local furniture upholsterer.Pack it in well to hold things firm but not restrict air flow.The " sound deading " sponge ( well Triumph's intention was there ) on the air flap has probably given up the ghost, so might need replacing.It's only a token thin affair.The sponge is easy enough to cut to size with a decent pair of scissors. Might be worth checking the integrity of the wiring of the moter/ grommets, whilst you have it out of the car. Are you any where near Surrey ? I still have an old heater ( beyond redemption) in bits that you could have a look at.If not practical, I could photo copy some old pictures I have of that part of my restoration. Best of luck....Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david ferry Posted September 10, 2007 Report Share Posted September 10, 2007 (edited) Mike, Bob has given a thorough set of removal instructions. Whilst out, if the internals are worn out, be aware that modern replacements are available, and better. These can be fitted into the original unit. If your original heater unit case looks tatty or is rusty/broken, I have a spare in my garage that is all very nicely powdercoated and ready to be filled with new internals. It is surplus to requirements and available if you need it. Good luck Regards David Edited September 10, 2007 by david ferry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikesloan Posted September 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2007 Bob Thanks for all the good advice. I've actually just removed the heater, more or less along the lines you suggest, and now dismantled it. There were a few blobs of hard black resiny material floating around but the main cause of my problem seems to be a complete absence of any insulation around the heat exchanger. Its no wonder it was rattling because there is nothing holding the heat exchanger in place but the hose connections! There is the remains of a thin film of (disintegrated) foam on the back/inside of the flap. I think I can see where the foam ought to go around the heat exchanger but perhaps you can elaborate. Presumably it should go between the fins and the case? Should there be any between the ends of the heat exchanger and the case? I've flushed the heat exchanger thoroughly and checked all the wiring, including running the fan to check for vibrations and all is well. I'm afraid I'm in Yorkshire so a visit would be difficult, thanks for the offer anyway. Any photos would be appreciated. Mike. MikeSorry to hear of your problem.Unfortunately there is no way....(that I know of ) to fix the problem in situ, simply because of the angle of the flap at the bottom of the heater.Access is pretty nigh impossible unless you are very, very small and multi jointed !! The usual health and safety regs apply..disconect battery before poking around under the dash.Remove seats.Pull out the heater control knob prior to emptying the coolant,towels and have an empty ice cream carton at the ready when you disconnect the heater hoses under the dash.Plug the two holes...it's surprising how much water will still be in the heater assembly. Optional but removing the glove box might give you a better view of things. Disconnect wiring to the fan, and air duct control cable ( don't lose the small screw and trunion bits put them somewhere safe ) Remove demister hoses from each side of the heater. Remove fixing on left hand side of heater (looking to front of car ) Three bolts to remove...fixing of heater to the underside of the fascia/bulkhead.catch the washers and spacers for re-assembly later.Take out passenger side...more room to juggle. Once out of the car, empty the remaining water.Access to the interior is through the side panel where the water pipes exit.The perimeter of the casing has a series of small grub screws.Once open,you will see where the radiator/ heater exchanger sits and find the remnants of the sponge disintergated. I suggest a good blast of water through the radiator bit and then reverse the flow, and wire brush the pipe ends. Make sure you fit "closed cell" sponge (the type that doesn't let in water) back in place.I bought some off- cuts from a local furniture upholsterer.Pack it in well to hold things firm but not restrict air flow.The " sound deading " sponge ( well Triumph's intention was there ) on the air flap has probably given up the ghost, so might need replacing.It's only a token thin affair.The sponge is easy enough to cut to size with a decent pair of scissors. Might be worth checking the integrity of the wiring of the moter/ grommets, whilst you have it out of the car. Are you any where near Surrey ? I still have an old heater ( beyond redemption) in bits that you could have a look at.If not practical, I could photo copy some old pictures I have of that part of my restoration. Best of luck....Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikesloan Posted September 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2007 Dave, Many thanks for your kind offer. You will see from my reply to Bob where I've got to. The internals seem OK (apart from rattling!). The heater has been most effective so far. The case is a bit rusty but I may salvage it. If I want to take up your offer where are you? Thanks for the input. Mike. Mike, Bob has given a thorough set of removal instructions. Whilst out, if the internals are worn out, be aware that modern replacements are available, and better. These can be fitted into the original unit. If your original heater unit case looks tatty or is rusty/broken, I have a spare in my garage that is all very nicely powdercoated and ready to be filled with new internals. It is surplus to requirements and available if you need it. Good luck Regards David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david ferry Posted September 10, 2007 Report Share Posted September 10, 2007 Mike, Stratford upon Avon. It will be easy to send in the post if you want it. Price to be discussed etc etc but nothing silly/expensive. It is as new, black and without any rust anywhere. Simply needs screwing together with internals inside it. David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob-menhennett Posted September 11, 2007 Report Share Posted September 11, 2007 Mike I see the mysteries of the inside of the heater have been revealed.As you have found "basic" describes it. I decided that there was insufficient room at the ends of the heat exchanger to put sponge foam in. I encircled the fins with a strip of thickish foam about 3/4's of an inch wide and found this held it rock solid. Any larger and I think it would restrict the heat output...not that the output is that great other people tell me. if you let me have your address I'll put a colour photocopy in the post which will illustrate my solution. mobile 07941 131845 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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