Electric fuel pump

[Menno van Rij]

Hi all,

 

Today I read an article in the Dutch TR Club Magazine about a TR-tour around Belgium. One of the TRs (a TR2) suffered from electrical problems. Due to that fact, the car was unable to travel along, because it was fitted with an electric fuel pump.

Okay, this situation is clear. But what's your (or: the commen) opinion about electric pumps vs. original models. I understand that the latest bunch of pumps is not the same quality as the original ones.

 

And if an electric fuel pump is fitted, is it compatible with SUs or...

 

As always: I like to read your imput!

 

Regards,

 

Menno

[Don Elliott]

I still have the original fuel pump on my TR3A. But I've changed the lower half because I stripped the threads by overtorquing 3 of the 6 screws. This spring I put in a new diaphragm kit. It works fine. I have heard lots of stories from those who have electric pumps on TR3s and TR4s (mostly TR racing guys) that you need a pressure regulator and these are always failing (made in Taiwan ?) so everything fails to run.

[jean]

I know of several TR3 owners having problems with Facet electric pumps. Some now fit 2 pumps to be on the safe side. On the other hand I also have seen mechanical pumps on which the spindle holding the lever had walked away, if you are lucky it does not drop into the sump .The difference between original and some remake-pumps is that the spindle is not held anymore in position by C clips, but that they just apply some punch knocks to the housing around the spindle what allows the spindle to eventually undo.

 

At this time I use a HUCO electric pump, fitted under the fuel tank, on my 3 plus a disconnected HARDY backup pump in the engine compartment. Both pumps are made in Europe and are very reliable. When selecting the pump you have to make sure where you fit them. HUCO is available in 1,4 psi for engine compartment and in 3,6 and 4,3 psi for near tank fitting. Hardy is available in 0,35 - 0,20 - 0,15 bar whatevthis is in psi ? I do not use a regulator as the pumps are designed to stop as soon as they feel a return/back pressure.

Must say on my way to Malvern the HUCO fitted under the tank performed well while driving through 1 1/2 foot of water

You may have a search on Google for HARDY or HUCO, giving all info required

[vivdownunder]

Hi Menno,

 

On the first 3A I rebuilt, and the one I have kept, I wanted a combination of the reliability of an electric fuel pump with the original look.

 

So I fitted a low pressure rotary electric pump (non-clacking so silent) down in the axle well, and channelled the fuel through the car's original manual pump with the valves removed, and the drive lever cut off. The electric pump sits safely away from the axle housing on the vertical panel behind the occasional seat, and is gravity fed from the tank. I put an inline fuel filter between the tank and the electric pump to keep the pump clean. This setup has run perfectly now for nearly 11 years, and is unseen even with wire wheels.

 

The electric pump does not fluctuate up and down every time you change gear, and is not going like the clappers at highway speed. It delivers fuel at a constant supply and pressure. Also, an electric pump fills the carbies straight away after the car has sat for a while, so you save on starter motor churn and battery drain. You can do this of course with the prime lever on the manual pump, but not everyone wants to lift the bonnet each time to prime the carbies, and some repro pumps do not have a prime lever. If you get total electrical failure the electric pump does stop, but this is very rare, and you also have no turn indicators or stop lights, so the car should not be driven anyway.

 

Cheers,

 

Viv

[Menno van Rij]

Thanks all,

 

Great feedback on this question! I've learnt a lot. (1): I assumed that Facet was the only manufacturer of pumps, (2): I now know that the pump on my TR is a replacement (no lever) and (3): I now know about a way to mount the pump near the tank.

 

Jean, when using an electric pump with 'back pressure cut off' (well, lets just call it that way), what do you use in the float chamber of the carb? Groose jets?

 

Does anybody who uses an electric pump has a cut off switch and / or an inertia switch somewhere in the car?

 

Regards,

 

Menno

 

(P.S. the hood for my TR is ready! Last saturday I visited the sail makers shop. It was ready to go, on the shelf. I went there by bike, I hadn't expected the hood to be ready. Just dropped by for a visit. Tomorrow the shop is open for business as usual. I'll be collecting the hood and I will take pics. to show)

[jean]

Menno, the float chambers are fitted with Groose Jets, I did not change them as they were there when I got the car. Some people are not happy with them as the balls can get stuck and the chambers run over. There are now standard jets on the market with teflon points, seems that they are superior to Groose Jets, maybe someone can comment on these

[jean]

Fully agree Alec, Huco pumps are exactly the same as SU's. Have an all hard plastic body and are corrosion free and very suitable to be fitted outside and under the car. Just a happy user.

[vivdownunder]

Hi Jean and Menno,

 

Regarding the SU fuel bowl needle and seat, back when Adam was a boy these were a brass needle in a brass seat, and were subject to contamination that allowed fuel overflow. Then ball valve Grose-Jets came out and were a major step forward in that they precisely controlled fuel inflow and didn't leak, and thus got rid of fuel smells and dangerous leakage from the fuel bowls on SU carbs. Nowadays Grose-Jets have become rare due to the advance of nitrile rubber/nylon tipped needles, which seem as good as Grose-Jets, and virtually come as standard equipment in SU rebuild kits. I have been fitting soft tipped needle and seat sets for maybe 20 years to any car I acquire with SU's, and cannot recall a failure.

 

Safety cut-out switches are definately worthwhile for peace of mind. To power my electric fuel pump I took a feed from the ignition switch through a separate fuse box that I installed behind the dash on top of one of the bracing stays. The wire then runs beside, and is taped to the rear wiring loom, through a safety switch mounted vertically near the electric pump, and on to the pump. I hope never to upend the car, but it is comforting to know the fuel supply would shut down to lessen the chance of a fire.

 

Cheers,

 

Viv.

[Nigel C]

Having 2 tanks (one each side in the sills...yes the sills!) the Peerless GT and Warwick use electric pumps. The two pumps are mounted under the rear seats and you have a switch on the dash to "trim" them. I use standard ....hu hurmm MGB pumps as they are readily available and standard jets with Teflon points. I should fit a inertia thingy as they could carry on pumping when you really don’t want them to!

I have modified the tanks when I had them re manufactured so one has the outlet at the front and one at the rear. This is because if you park on a steep drive like I used to have and run the engine you used to run out of fuel even when they were quite full as the outlets were only at the rear of the tank.

Also when you fly close to the wire as I do some times you can switch from tank to tank depending on the gradient!

This always annoys the present Mrs Cluley when I start subtly switching hoping she doesn’t notice that we are about to get out and push if we don’t find a filling station soon.