Engine Rebuild

[HeswallTR3]

After spending the budget on a gearbox, I was pursuaded to tackle the engine myself..given its agricultural origins. No doubt John at Bitz will put me right but seeing as its 9.10 I was hoping that someone maybe able to ease my pain...

 

I managed to ease the head off tonight which I was well chuffed with, however, there were 2 things that concerned me, the first being the last push rod I removed was covered in a jelly like stuff and I noticed some antifreeze splattered about when I removed it, the other point was the engine would not turn due to, I think , one of the pistons being rusted tight......it all sound very expensive to me!

 

Thanks in advance

 

Keith

Heswall

Wiiral

[marvmul]

So far that is nothing bad.

Did the cam followers come out?

When the head is removed, and you try to spin the crankshaft in the direction that will lift the stuck piston, piston and liner will move together and after removing the rod bearing cap, you can take the liner with the piston to a bench.

The cost will depend on the parts you need or want to change.

A lot of people can sell you second hand liners and pistons, or you can use your own again : then you need new rings and get the liners honed.

A couple of important things on the 4 cylinder TR engines : the liners shougt protrude above the block the right amount (0.07 to 0.15mm); the sealing of the liners down in the block : the rims should not be corroded away too far : not over the whole width at least and they should be perfectly clean to blank metal; when you reuse the cam followers, they should go to the same places again;be sure about the valve timing when fitting a new camshaft; all scale in the head and the block should be removed (mostly the rear of the engine is affected and when cleaned not well, the engine will overheat locally : steam pockets will form, and these in turn affect the cooling badly...)

[jonlar]

Hi Keith, pour some diesel in the pots and leave it soak for a day or 2, then wind crank backwards and forwards by ratchet or T-bar - don't be tempted to use too much leverage or the starter motor, the huge torque can do damage to con-rods etc., let the lubricant/penetrating effects of diesel do its stuff! If it does move the liners you can then remove the piston on the bench.

Edited August 21, 2007 by jonlar

[Richardtr3a]

The best answer to my liner problems was to ask RACETORATIONS to rebuild my engine. No further problems after 15 years. The height of the liners is absolutely CRITICAL

 

Richard

[Andy Moltu]

Rebuilding a 4 pot engine is pretty straightforward.

Getting the liner hights correct is the only complicating factor over building a 6 cylinder engine or say a Spitfire engine.

However it isn't rocket science - just a matter of patience - trial clamping the head to settle the liners & measuring the protusion of the liners beyond the block & if they are not right make the ajustments by using different figure of 8s & swapping round the liners to make sure your liners protrude by the specified amount and critically no low liners between the highs. Providing they are in tolerance they don't have to be equal but the lowe ones should be 1 & 4 and not 2 & 3.

 

Whilst it's apart get the fly wheel lightened & the bottom end balanced as that will help to ensure a long life for your engine.