Dismantling the windscreen surround...

[BrianC]

I am trying to dismantle a pair of windscreens for rechroming and, as it's about a quarter of a century since I last experienced this great pleasure, I could do with some advice.

Last time, the glass was already out and the screws were obviously less rusty, as I don't remember it being quite as difficult as it is proving this time.

 

The problem I have at the moment is removing the 4 screws through the lower rail into the angled windscreen corner brackets. The heads of these were badly rusted and began to disintegrate as soon as I showed them a screwdriver. I have now drilled-off the heads but the rail does not seem to want to separate from the upper part, although I am afraid to use too much force in case I break the glass. Can anyone confirm whether it should be possible to remove the bottom rail in this way, or do I need to also drill out the 2 pairs of screws through the uprights into the angle brackets? If the latter, then presumably I would need to drill out some of the threaded part (shank?) of the screw, rather than just taking off the countersunk head. This would increase the risk of damage to the frame itself, as it is difficult to drill accurately.

 

As a supplementary question, I am curious to know what the two screws in the middle and upper ares of the uprights are for, as I don't remember seeing these on the last screen I did. Each upright has seven holes, 2 at the top, 2 in the middle and 3 at the bottom. Each of the bottom holes of each group is for the stanchion screws. The other 2 holes of the bottom group are for the angle bracket screws. But what are the screws through the remaining holes in the upper and middle group doing (and do I need to know)?

[sforster]

Brian,

From memory yes you do need to remove the screws holding the corner brackets to the sides or drill them out as you are better buying replacement corner brackets. The screws on the side hold brass/metal blocks which are threaded for the screws which support the frame from the stanchon.

Simon

[BrianC]

Simon,

I have a nasty feeling you are right - I was hoping the rail would come out leaving the angle brackets in situ. The uprights are splayed-out as they descend so, in theory, the geometry should allow it. I thought this would then enable me to remove the glass before attacking the side screws. I expect to have to replace the brackets and screws but would like to avoid damaging the frame itself.

[TR 2100]

I was hoping the rail would come out leaving the angle brackets in situ. The uprights are splayed-out as they descend so, in theory, the geometry should allow it. I thought this would then enable me to remove the glass before attacking the side screws. I expect to have to replace the brackets and screws but would like to avoid damaging the frame itself.

I reckon the bottom rail should come off on its own, leaving the angle brackets attached

to the frame vertical edge section.

 

If the corner angle brackets are rusted (aren't they always?) then the rust (together with

general gunge or any windscreen sealant) could be holding the bottom section in place.

Remember also the options sometimes used for lubricating the rubber seal on assembly.

Washing fluid is sometimes used - I suspect this may lubricate initially but eventually act

like an adhesive.

 

I would try a hammer against the bottom rail to knock it down, not directly but using a block

of wood.

[BrianC]

Success!

The bottom rail came out after drilling off the heads of the 4 screws through it, followed by a few scary whacks with a length of 1"x2" and a rubber mallet.

Once this was removed, the glass came out quite easily as the upper frame is quite bendy. It was then a doddle to drill off the heads of the screws through the uprights into the extremely rusty corner brackets.

Incidentally, the extra screws in the uprights are to secure the two short aluminium(?) blocks into which the stanchion bolts screw.

It also looks as if the last windscreen fitter (or factory) had the sense to fit some small pieces of square-section rubber into the top rail to prevent the glass coming into contact with the ends of the hood pegs (which are in any case the correct, short, length). Must remember to refit these after it has been rechromed.

One down, one to go - just hope my luck doesn't run out

[Don Elliott]

Brian - Search the archives where I explained how to use 3 layers od black sticky vinyl electrical tape as a seal for installing the glass in your frame.

[BrianC]

I've already commited that idea to memory Don. Insulation tape doesn't deteriorate like rubber and should certainly outlast me. Not so sure about the chrome though, judging by the last lot I had done (by a very reputable company)

[TR 2100]

Insulation tape doesn't deteriorate like rubber and should certainly outlast me.

Not so sure about the chrome though, judging by the last lot I had done (by a

very reputable company)

I think it should be remembered that the glass is always likely to settle down

rather than up, and that the top part of the frame will be pulled up by the force

of the hood when driving at speed.

 

It seems to me that for this reason, the windscreen should not be an easy fit

into the frame on re-assembly - if it is, then it makes it easier for the natural

forces to act. I reckon the fit should be as tight as you dare, using the lubricant

of your choice.

Various lubricants have been mentioned, like washing up liquid, but opinion seems

to be that this will rot the rubber in the longer term.

What about Armourall? What about good old vaseline? Or even KY (although I've

never used itr - for anything).

 

I would always prefer to use the factory rubber strip, but these days, with repro

parts, you don't know if the strip is made to the same thickness or qualities.

 

As for black plastic electrical insulation tape - you mean that stuff that goes slimy?

'Nuff said - each to his own.

 

AlanR

[jonlar]

Has anyone tried self-amalgamating rubber tape, this will stretch around corners without cutting?

[jamie hart]

When I replaced my windscreen, there was absolutely no way the screws would come out of the corner brackets so I ended up using a razor saw sold in model shops to cut the brackets and release the glass. This did not damage the chrome work in any way and I then used new brackets and screws to replace plus copper grease in case I have to take it apart again.

I used rubber blocks in the bottom and side sections to space the glass, and the Moss sealing strip with clear sealing compound to put it all back again. Was more than a mission but all seems to have worked well so will now leave well alone.

Hope this helps and good luck, enjoy a good bottle of red wine after you have finished, you may need it!!!

[BrianC]

Hope this helps and good luck, enjoy a good bottle of red wine after you have finished, you may need it!!!

Make that two bottles of red - I've got a pair to do (but no hurry!)

[BrianC]

One down, one to go - just hope my luck doesn't run out

Got away with it again - just need one set of windscreen stanchions now - see 'Buy, Sell, TRade' forum.

[Don Elliott]

Brian - There are two types for securing the stanchions. The older TRs have Dzus fasteners through the lower mounting holes while the later TRs need chrome headed screws with straight threads to secure them.

[Don Elliott]

Brian - I want to give you an up-date on the black electric tape idea. I did mine a few months ago. The tape was about 5/8" wide which is too narrow to go up one face of the glass, over the top edge and then back down the other face. So I put about 8 layers onto each side and a few over the top edges. Even with so many layers on each side the glass still seemed loose in the frame. Then after I drove it a few times in hot sunny weather, the sticky tape started to slide down out of the slot. This was most noticable at the corners where I had stretched the black tape a bit as it followed the curves of the top corners.

 

So, I took it all apart again, removed the tape and all the smeared sticky residue and used a rubber tape that I found that I had on the shelf in my garage, still in the bag, and it's all done now. It went fine with a bit of soapy water. This tape was 1.5" wide and was textured on both sides almost like the origonal tape when I got my TR new. The thickness was perfect. The original tape (I found a long length of it) had about 2" of stretch starting with a 6" length. The new tape has a stretch of only 1/2" in a 6" length. The foam piece of tape I used in 1990 had a stretch of 10" startng with a 6" length. This was no good and the foam got thinner as I stretched it. Also the cells in the foam were open cells, so the rain went through it like a sponge. If it had less stretch and was made from a closed cell foam, it would have worked much better.

[Dave Larnder]

Hi Everybody

 

Just had my windscreen replaced By my insurance company through a professional windscreen supplier and fitter. After some advice from me on how it comes apart, it took them 1.75 hours and I see they reused my old rubber joint, so i must wait and see what reactions I get once it starts to settle down during driving. It could be quite some time before I need to put the hood up as it don't rain here that often, although I have been caught out once on the toll road and got slightly wet before I could get off and get under a bridge to erect the hood.

Mine is an early TR3A so I have Dzus screws for the stanchions to the car.

Dave