JohnC
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Posts posted by JohnC
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Why is this even a question? As Andy said, keep the original and you can swap before each potential buyer comes to see the car. And the same can be said, to a degree, for so many improvements. I've kept my original (50yr-old) steering rack in case somebody wants to make "my" car less drivable in the interests of originality by removing the power steering. And I've kept the old seats, oil filter housing, Lucas fuel pump, engine-driven fan, headlight bulbs, instrument non-light bulbs, etc. You get my drift. If it's reversible and the parts come with the car then I'm struggling to understand the point of the question. But YMMV.
JohnC
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On 11/1/2022 at 6:35 AM, Andy Moltu said:
Rotate the crank 360 degrees so you are working on the easier union (No1) to remove.
Nice! Why are good ideas so obvious in hindsight?
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Hope you've solved the problem, but if not...
The only thing that stands out to me is the braided injector lines. Having said that, I have no hypothesis as to how they would be a problem over weeks. As you say, they have (only) been cast as a likely suspect in hot starting problems. But how about this: Replace them with white (translucent) lines. That way you know the braiding isn't a problem *and* you can see if one or more lines develop an air lock (and how big). I've done this, and I can tell you that air locks of 1-2" are no problem. More, and you'll likely get the engine starting on less than six cylinders, or only after long cranking.
It may not solve your problem (but it might), but it will allow you to eliminate or not whether petrol leakage is a problem.
Hope this helps
John -
I replaced the innards in mine with a Quaife LSD. It did require some machining to fit but I'm very happy with the outcome. YMMV.
John
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On 9/27/2022 at 5:18 AM, PodOne said:
I purchased new guides
Hi Andy,
Where did you get the guides from?
John
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On 10/4/2022 at 2:05 PM, YankeeTR5 said:
As others have said, stay away from a 6-2-1 manifold- it’s mostly an obsolete design these days. 6-3-1 better.
I fitted a 6-2-1 manifold to my 6 many years ago (TT1200 I think). Rolling road tests showed significant torque and Bhp benefits at high RM (think 4500+) but big penalties lower down. It need to be revved. I suspect they were designed for race, not road. I have not tried a 6-3-1 manifold yet, but going back to the original cast iron manifold delivered a lovely flat torque curve. Perhaps Triumph actually knew what they were doing?
John
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Does fitting new inner and outer seals/felt stop the rattle of the window when you shut the door with window down? I have managed to eliminate all door rattles but that one, but my window seals may date from the day the car left the factory...
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I'm really interested in Schnippel's findings. I'll give it a try next time I take the PI off my car (which is often as I love playing). Just a thought though - our injectors spray into the inlet manifold, not onto the back of the valve, so the physics and flow of the induction tract must be a factor. My crude calculations indicate that the swept volume of each cylinder is roughly 4x the volume of the inlet tract, so I don't understand why the timing is important. Presumably it's best to get the fuel in early on in the induction process to allow thorough mixing. Perhaps Schnippel's observations suggest that the fuel should be introduced just after the induction stroke starts the mixture to move? Wondering if @Peter Cobboldhas any thoughts on this?
John
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Just a thought. I fitted a CDD power steering conversion a month or so ago. It has transformed the driving experience and it has a quick rack as a bonus. This is a hydraulic PAS, and the ram provides the assistance to the passenger (LH) end of the rack while being mounted on the driver (RH) side. So it doesn't rely on the tube/casting joint. At least that's my reading of the setup (@harrytr5?). Not cheap, but a very well engineered upgrade, and looks like it would avoid the aftermarket issues discussed here.
John
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Black gaffer tape here. And it’s only now, after 35yrs of ownership, that I realised there should be a clamp as well…
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32 minutes ago, Rob Y said:
Don’t do that. If you offer them foc, collection only in the TR Reg classified, there’s a good chance someone will take them off your hands and restore them. As you have seen, some people like them and love originality too.
Totally agree. Thanks to David (@WWT338J) , I got a lovely pair of early TR6 fixed headrest seats for the price of shipping (to Australia, so let's not dwell on that!). In turn, I gave away a pair of late TR6 seats to a fellow member. Not only was money saved all round (thanks to David for starting the cycle), but a couple of pairs of seats are still in circulation.
JC
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On 9/7/2022 at 2:16 AM, Kevo_6 said:
Thanks Stuart, yes I’ve made up a turnbuckle spreader for the job.
Appreciate the quick response.
Hi Kev,
Please would you post a picture of the spreader you made? I’m about to replace the rack on my car (with a hydraulic PAS one from CDD), and getting the mounts properly spread is one task I’ve found difficult in the past.
Thanks,
John -
I've gone with LEDs, higher temp notwithstanding. I wouldn't go back. The illumination vs halogens on both high and low beam is, dare I say it, light and day. I'm sure the colour temp is not classic, but nor are today's driving conditions. As I said earlier in the thread, there was a minor niggle in working out how to fit the control box but otherwise very simple.
JC
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It's possible there was a partial blockage in #3 somewhere between MU and injector poppet valve. You'll have cleared it when you took everything apart. Mind you, that doesn't explain why the misfire occurred under 2500RPM, unless you were using a more open throttle then. It also doesn't explain why you saw *no* fuel coming out when you took the injector off.
I assume that by "rubber valve" you mean the bung/barrel seal between the non-return valve and the MU. It sounds like that may have hardened as you note it's deformed. That may even have been the source of a bit of debris. In that case, your injection unit is due for an overhaul. Easy enough to do yourself, but requires scrupulous cleanliness (kitchen bench top!) and care, and you'll need to source the various seals and diaphragms. Unless you really want to DIY, you're probably best sending your unit off to a specialist. They'll be able to check the calibration as well, which is a job that requires specialist kit.
Having said all that, don't discount the possibility that you actually have an electrical problem (as well as a PI problem). If you spend enough time reading this forum you'll find that many, if not most, so-called PI problems are actually electrical.
Cheers,
John -
1 hour ago, Rob Y said:
I’m not sure what you mean exactly
Hide glue is a foul-smelling concoction made (I believe) from animal hide. It's applied hot and grabs as it cools down, which happens when it's thinned out by the action of the hide hammer. A hide hammer is basically a rounded-edge straight-edged thing (tm) you drag across the veneer to squeeze out the glue (like a roller but it doesn't roll). I have not done this, only read about it. Experts say it's easy
Do you mean you could see through the veneer with the backlighting? Sounds like a really smart idea.
John
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On 6/28/2022 at 7:17 AM, Rob Y said:
Quite easy to do because the dash is flat, no curves do deal with so no need to use a vacuum system.
HI Rob,
Did you go the hide glue/ hide hammer route or another glue system?
Cheers,
John
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On 6/8/2022 at 12:16 AM, trchris said:
Did you have the radiator properly flushed ? and not with a garden hose either professionally I mean
trchris was on the money. Just sayin'
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I used a home-made drill guide (big block of wood) and fitted 5/16" Helicoils. No problem at all. But that was before I read here that things could go badly wrong. Of course then my TR6 was worth about £3k. If I did it again I would do the same but probably have to find a new trailing arm. Didn't Einstein have something to say about that? Something about having information changing the outcome? I hate that. Ignorance for me every time
JC (a little tongue in cheek)
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Glad the replacement flasher is working. The original problem *could* be due to a poor earth or other connection. If it allowed enough current initially, you'd get a flashing indicator. Then, as the resistance of the connection caused it to heat up and increase its own resistance, the current could reduce to the point that the flasher no longer flashed. Replacing the flasher with NOS and getting similar problems points in the same direction. If the new flasher requires a lower current to operate, you've masked but not solved the problem. You may have dim indicators even though they flash now.
BTW as the NOS flasher was slow on one side and non-flashing on the other, I'd suspect more than one poor connection.
My contribution is worth what you paid for it, but it's nonetheless well-meaning!
JC
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On 5/24/2022 at 2:05 AM, Motorsport Mickey said:
If you don’t have a toe in gauge you can do this using 2 suitable length thin sticks which overlap by a good amount and tie wrap them together. Then slip them apart onto the inside of the front wheels inside edge ( from the front) and mark one stick against the other with marker pen. Then squeeze the sticks back together to remove, and carry out the same measuring process against the back of the wheel, and compare against the marked dimension of the front of the wheel. Compared to the front smaller is toe out, and larger is toe in. The difference between measuring at centre line of the wheel as against the bottom of the wheel is so small as not to make any difference, it’s comparative, it’s how the car drives that matters.
I would really love to understand this, but I don't. Can you provide a diagram or something that illustrates it please?
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I got my LED Headlight upgrade from Classic Car LEDs. Much, much better than Osram Nightbreaker H4s. Not totally plug'n'play, as the control unit has to be secured outside the headlamp bowl and the hole in the bowl (tm) needs to be enlarged for the cable and connector, but pretty straightforward. If the conversion is legal for you, I can't recommend it highly enough.
John
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I guess I'm lucky with ambient air temp. I've recently replaced all injector pipes using a home made clamp (using wood, not Tufnol - what a rebel!) and all went well with no warmth. But I do agree - a mug of warm water can hardly do any harm. And if it started life as a mug of hot tea, so much the better
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@Stuart. I'm intrigued. I've never seen a yellow Oil Pressure light (or yellow any other light on a TR TBH). You must have seen hundreds. Were many lights yellow?
John
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On 5/9/2022 at 9:25 PM, Andy Moltu said:
How hot do the injectors/pipes get in use?
Hot water at tap temperature should be fine. Boiling at 100C is likely to be above under bonnet temp.
Fair question, but the Lucas manual is pretty explicit:
TR6 Power Steering
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Another +1 for CDD. I fitted it in September. The kit was straightforward to install and it's a delight to drive with it. Only point to note is that you must use a pusher electric fan. The hydraulic ram leaves no space for either the original fan or a puller electric fan.