Don H.
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Posts posted by Don H.
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They're not the corner brackets for the windscreen lower rubber seal meets the stanchions, are they?
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Would the auction house be willing to forward your contact info to the buyer along with your interest to talk with them?
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I've been watching this one on eBay, too. Right screw, but a lot of money for that being the only part I need.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/354483539215One of our most excellent correspondents on here may have found an original screw.
Stay tuned for details after my UK visit during th Goodwood Members Meeting.
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Very cool. The guy's a good machinist. That block of acrylic is beautiful.
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44 minutes ago, 2long said:
This place has some interesting stuff:
https://jollyrogersmotors.com/store/p/742-Lucas-552913-Headlamp-Rim-Triumph-TR3-NOS.html
I've done business with those guys, Dan. And yes, they do have interesting stuff. The Lucas SFT/SLR 576 driving light stoneguards on my car are from them. They didn't have any split rims on their website the other week, but I haven't spoken to them directly.
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29 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
Just done some digging.....
Would this do?
https://www.holden.co.uk/p/cheesehead_screw_for_headlamp_rims
I don't think it would, Peter. Holden was my first port of call as I started hunting, and I saw that one.
It's stated to be 1/4" BSF, and is used with headlight rims in this orientation:
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At least the seller seems to have shown the actual mileage on the car -- a million miles. Looks like it.
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28 minutes ago, RAHTR4 said:
Don,
I acquired a pair of these particular rims some years ago and coincidently they are currently at the Plater’s awaiting their turn in the queue.
I was told at time of purchase that they were fitted to early TR’s so after I got home I checked the period Lucas Catalogues to see what they were actually fitted to and the following are the notes I made at the time.
Fitted to all Standard car exported to Persia up to 1956.
Fitted to TR3 exported to Switzerland in 1958.
These rims then disappeared from all subsequent years of the Lucas Catalogues.
My take from this was that they were a rare part.
I have no idea what the actual thread is, however as I still have the original two screws – I did not pass these to the Plater, I was concerned they might be lost.! – so I have just checked through all the spare Lucas screws and found the Headlight adjuster screw, part number 554288, has the same thread and are slightly longer.
These will obviously work differently, because both location brackets are internally threaded the screw will pull the joint together.
The original screw having a plain wasted area below its head means the threaded portion will pass completely through the first location bracket into the second bracket and tighten the joint by compression only.
Obviously this is based on an original Lucas part, so I do not know if the modern reproduction screws carry the same thread.
I have too many other Lucas screws to be able check them all, so I stopped at the first suitable one I found.
As the screw is located under the Headlight I think it would be very hard to spot when installed.
Regards, Richard
I've seen that part, and wondered about exactly the questions you answered, Richard. Our originals were (are) chrome plated. The headlamp adjusting screw is zinc plated, yes?
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2 hours ago, stuart said:
I would have said definitely BA as that was used in most Lucas applications.
Stuart.
Yes, that makes sense, Stuart. A thread type used for many small, "precision" applications well beyond Lucas, yes?
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5 hours ago, mike ellis said:
Don, as I read the parts book those split rims were fitted as standard on TR3As up to TS32585 which is why Iain's car has them as does mine. They were also fitted to a few versions of some other cars such as Morris Minors but no suppliers ever seem to have any.
I think I may have a couple of old rims knocking around so will have a look and let you know.
Mike
Thanks, Mike. I can't say I've ever seen a full handful over here. Were they fitted to US TR3As, too? A bunch of them must have gotten separated from their cars, I guess.
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One can apparently buy chrome 2BA socket-head screws by each. I might have to bring a few home as a souvenir from the Goodwood Members Meeting this year.
https://hh-ms.com/product/2ba-unf-allen-screws/
That site notes 2BA is interchangeable with 3/16 BSF. Is that right?
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8 minutes ago, Dale Moore said:
2 BA?? Hard to gauge against the rule but looks like it could be around 31 tpi
Dale
Could be. The original screw fits a bit loose into a M5 x 0.8 mm thread checker, but an M5 x 0.8 screw won't go into the trim ring.
Something like this could possibly work:
https://britishfasteners.com/2ba-stainless-steel-cheesehead-x-1-6588.html
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4 minutes ago, iain said:
Don I’ll try and check mine over the next few days I have some Wierd taps and dies so will investigate.
Thx!
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5 minutes ago, Hamish said:
Has the chroming affected -reduced the thread size ?
No, it was protected from rechroming as far as I can tell. The original screw fits perfectly.
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The Lucas 7" headlamp trim rims with screw-clamp fixing have always appealed to me. Partly because the attachment is secure and visible and partly because they're uncommon. They were never fitted as standard to sidescreen TRs as far as I know, although I've seen them on some cars (including one former works car, @iain).
I got a set a few years ago from one of our correspondents here -- thanks @foster461-- and I had them rechromed a while ago as I was having some other stuff done. I'm considering fixing them to my TR3B this season.
But one of the original and odd screws is missing. It's a weirdo, thank you very much Mr. Lucas, that seems to be neither UNF 8-32 or metric M5, although close to both, with a slotted head that isn't quite like any cheese head I've seen. Probably BSF, dontcha think?
I'd be OK with replacing both screws with something that fits. Any ideas of where one might find something like that?
The screw is Lucas part number 552816, a 15/16" rim fixing screw. The trim ring is Lucas part number 552822, I believe.
I should have taken this one when I had the chance 10+ years ago! I have a good friend who's a superb machinist, and he could probably single point one, but he's so unreliable in other ways it would likely be the rest of my life before I saw it...
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I have four CTEK maintainers, including two MXS 5.0 models. I like their easy quick-connectorrs, their multi-step battery maintenance programming, the reconditioning option (which has saved a battery on my motorcycle), and the indicator connectors with LEDs to show state of charge.
I've retired my Battery Tender -- the CTEK gear is so much better.
Here's that indicator connector, permanently mounted to one of my Toyota trucks, showing the battery is fully charged (green).
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Happy new year, guys, from one of the latecomers to the new year.
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I've not seen them here either, Stuart. I've done business, however, with that vendor, Susquehanna Motorsports, and they're a real and quite competent company.
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It was -21C at my house in Saint Louis on Friday morning, with a pretty good wind. Brrr. We've been below 0C since then, with an inch or two of snow on the ground. But that's typical winter weather for us, just four weeks earlier than normal.
The guys east of Lake Erie in Buffalo NY really got hammered. An area that's used to almost 100 inches of snow per year is experiencing the worst storm they've had since the blizzard of 1977.
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On 12/10/2022 at 7:11 AM, Rich Roenigk said:
Hello, if you have a TR3B and would like to add it to my friend , Gert, in Germany who is compiling a list of remaining B cars, send me an email to put you in touch. He has over 600 so far. I own two B cars TCF2156L and TCF120L Thx, Rich
Gert and I communicate often on the subject of TR3Bs.
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15 minutes ago, john.r.davies said:
Like "Marvel Mystery Oil" , in America, "Seafoam" appears to be better than bread presented in individual slices. For any, absolutely any, engine problem. Bit like WD40.
It is more usual that remedies that are presented as cure-all nostrums are the reverse, the province of know-nothing quacks!
John
Pretty harsh, dontcha think, John? Exactly who are you calling a know-nothing quack?
My small engines have run better with pure gas and a stabilizer (whether that's STA-BIL, Seafoam, Lucas Oil fuel stabilizer, or who knows what). That's empirical data. And correlation is of course not causation. is a fuel stabilizer transformative? Nope. Have I run experiments well-designed enough to separate the different factors? Nope. Have I had a no-start season-kickoff situation or the need to rebuild a carb since I started using that combo five or six years ago? Another nope.
And BTW, WD-40 is a good laundry greasy-stain remover, so it has at least one use.
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In the US, one can often find ethanol-free petrol (at a big premium, alas) where it's sold for boats. Those guys recognize leaving fuel in tanks for extended periods is better without ethanol. So try a local marina.
Aviation fuel is another option, but that's kind of a crazy excess and often brings other issues (like tetraethyl lead) in some regions.
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48 minutes ago, harlequin said:
Don
I have found that a good dose of carburettor cleaner down the intake solves spring time starting issues.
My assumption is that the very small jets and breather holes in garden machine engines are easily clogged with varnishes etc when the ethanol evaporates and the cleaner removes this crud.
George
I've tried carb cleaner, and it can indeed help. I've had the best results by never getting into varnishing problems. Ethanol-free, use of a fuel stabilizer (I'm currently using one over here called Seafoam), and completely draining carb (and often tank) at the end of the season. That leads to a one- or two-pull start in the springtime.
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We've been using E10 throughout the US for years now, and in my area I can't even buy E0 fuel due to air quality regulations. In a motor vehicle made within the last 25 years or so -- no issues. In a TR that's had rubber in the fuel system replaced with ethanol-compatible grades -- no issues.
I drove about a thousand miles using ethanol free in the US southwest a year or so ago (where that fuel grade was available) and I saw no change in economy over about 4000 miles total comparing E10/15 to E0, so even the theoretical heat capacity differences can't be seen.
Where ethanol-free fuel has made a difference is in my small engine yard equipment. Mower, edger/trimmer, etc. For those I fill my cans when I'm in an area that sells ethanol free. My equipment overwinters and starts in the springtime lots better if it runs with "pure gas" (a common term in American English.)
PS: Those results are with ambient temperatures ranging from -15C to +38C.
What are these?
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
They're normally finished in Triumph CBP. Cheap black paint.