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UlsterTR7

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About UlsterTR7

  • Birthday September 25

Profile Information

  • Location
    Northern Ireland
  • Cars Owned:
    Solely Triumphs! 1980 TR7 DHC; 1964 1200 Herald Estate, 1967 1200 Herald Estate, 1964 1200 Herald convertible, Mk1 GT6.

Recent Profile Visitors

88 profile views
  1. UlsterTR7

    Rubber Airfilter box support - modern replacements?

    Thanks Lawrence; UKC2451 it is; rubber fuel mounting on the PI systems in Stag, 2000 and TR6. Wayne at Robsport sells them and has one on the way to me. I thought I had a modern equivalent from an autofactors, which is a Mini exhaust mounting, but it's too big to even cut down. Nice to know the original is still available, once I had the part number it cropped up everywhere. Colin
  2. I need to find a replacement for the small rubber bobbin that supports the air filter box in my 2.0 litre. Are these still available anywhere or has anyone used a modern equivalent and knows the dimensions of a replacement? There are numerous modern bobbins on eBay for Mercedes or Audi so it's just a case of determining which is the correct size.
  3. UlsterTR7

    TR7 DHC Window frame colour?

    Thanks Xseries, that's another bit of useful info to file away.
  4. UlsterTR7

    TR7 DHC Window frame colour?

    Thanks Dave; I'm not originality-fixated in the slightest so if that's the way my car is, I'll leave it like that - just wanted to know! (Also want to know why some TR7s have a long rubber-like nudge strip along each door, roughly where the two colours meet - is this standard too?)
  5. UlsterTR7

    TR7 DHC Window frame colour?

    That's something I've been meaning to ask; I've seen TR7s on the Net, being fully restored, that have the rear panel painted black. I take it none of them had this as standard? Also the sills - yours look to be black in that profile photo, but mine are body colour, and again I've seen so many of each; why the difference in some cars? Colin
  6. UlsterTR7

    which tool sizes?

    It's left me quite wary, especially when trying to retap threads and I'm not sure what species of tap to actually use... I have both metric and UNF taps and dies, but even fitting a replacement bolt on this or that component becomes a trial until you find that the threads you've selected is actually correct. Just one of the joys of Triumph ownership! Thanks Jose - I've found those pages on the manual and it appears the engine is all either UNF or UNC and the body / suspension etc is metric. Re ChippyMike - if you expect the unexpected, doesn't that mean it's no longer unexpected?
  7. UlsterTR7

    which tool sizes?

    There are a few odd sizes still; I had to run about looking for UNC items for the thermostat housing on the manifold of my 1980 DHC... it's left me very suspicious that there are some mix and match dotted about the car.
  8. UlsterTR7

    TR7 DHC Window frame colour?

    Probably satin black; I resprayed my windscreen trim panel (that long black one under the screen which the wipers go through) with rattle-can satin recently and it seems a very close match to the original.
  9. Just a few days ago I upgraded to Macintosh OSX Mojave, and consequently had to reinstall McAfee Antivirus that comes free with BT Broadband. It blocked me from this site completely for a few days; now that I've managed to get access it still warns me about every page. Any computer gurus out there know why, and how I can stop it? Now that I'm in, it warns me every time:
  10. UlsterTR7

    Windscreen wiper spindle nut size

    Yes, I've just replaced both wheelboxes and the old ones were handed, although don't ask me which was which. In fitting the new nut, none of my spanners fitted and I've 30 years of them lying about the garage, in all shapes sizes and grades. in the end I had to use an adjustable spanner.
  11. UlsterTR7

    history of cars

    Be careful posting that information on the Net; if it were me I'd edit that post and remove one or two digits off the Vin, or remove it altogether now it's been answered. By posting VIN and reg together, you could leave the car open to cloning, and while you may think no-one would want to clone it, some lowlife with a stolen TR might just be wanting a ringer, or looking for info for an eBay scam. Don't make it easy for them, or get yourself in hot water with speeding tickets or parking fines that you know nothing about!
  12. UlsterTR7

    Heater fan not working - where to start?

    Brand new thermal sensor obtained today; according to the explanation: "This is a thermal cutout switch. I'm not familiar with the TR7 but on the Rover SD1 you have two fan speeds, and this switch is designed to cut power to the fan motor if the unit overheats. They tend to fail so that the fan only works on the fast speed, not the slow one. If you want your fan to work as originally intended, you need this switch working." So I'll solder this one in to the system and see if things work as they should.
  13. UlsterTR7

    TR8 or Not?

    I guess the 'rust-free project' description doesn't extend to the boot floor....
  14. UlsterTR7

    Heater fan not working - where to start?

    ....and another most recent update, for anyone struggling with their heater: I swapped the spade terminals about on the slider control and found that all three worked, but only in one speed. This points to the resistor control on top of the heater being kaput. I've removed the heater completely, and the resistor unit is now accessible on top with only a spring clip holding it in place. It's very badly corroded so I've ordered a second-hand replacement, which is all that's available; however I've contacted the original manufacturer to enquire if any old stock resistors remain, or what the modern equivalent might be.
  15. UlsterTR7

    Dashboard removal

    Job done, and surprising easily too. There are myriads of threads on this, but not one actually tells you how to do it! For anyone else wishing to do it: remove the centre top grille, and the gauge cover panel - that's straightforward, plus the radio console surround and switch panels above - all screws are clearly visible. I didn't remove the steering wheel but I did remove the screen pillar trims, and the gauge console. The dash top screws are all visible - I removed the vent screws too, this just drops the plastic vent pipes a bit and they're easily reattached. There are two lugs held on by bolts in the centre of the dash; it saves breaking these if the bolts are completely removed. Along the bottom edge of the dash there are five or six self tappers, each with a rubber washer. After that there are three self tappers at the back of the glovebox supporting the fusebox. That's it! Pull it out gently and detach the air vent pipes. No mystery or problems, although the centre section is quite thin and will flex, so be careful not to break it. I've also removed the heater and will replace all seals, and possibly an uprated matrix as well (£114 off eBay); and the heater rheostat requires replacing, which was the reason it all came out in the first place. Keith - I've already replaced the dash bulbs but might do so again with LEDs; what dimmer did you go for? Does it work ok with LEDs? Finally if I have a problem with the heater valve is a replacement available?
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