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TR7V8mike

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  1. Thanks Acaie, how can I get in touch with Russ Cooper?
  2. Hi, I seen several different setups for the brake lines on the Princess calipers and I would appreciate your guidance on the best. So far I have seen: 1) Brake line into a T-piece then two lines into the side-by-side inlets 2) One brake line into the inlet and the other closed off with a bolt/screw 3) One brake line into the inlet and another connecting the second inlet with the nipple on the middle top of the outboard side of the caliper. Which way to go? Next question: where can I find instructions on replacing the piston seals? Next, how to prevent corrosion down the middle of a vented rotor? I was thinking of spraying VHT clear coat down the vents. Better ideas? Next, can I replace the bolts holding the two halves of the calipers together with SS bolts? Thanks Mike
  3. Hi, I am re-building and restoring my Princess calipers (SS pistons and new seels) and I have a couple of questions. First, how do I bleed them, given the three nipples? Second, after I take them back to bare metal, what is the best way to prevent rust? VHT clear coat (which brand, if any), zinc coating or something else? Cheers, Michael
  4. Hi, I have a warmed-up 4.6L Range Rover engine with 14CUX EFI (Tornado chip) on top. Its my daily ride and I track the car with the club. Its time to overhaul the fuel delivery system and I'd like to do it right the first go (just for a change). The car goes well up to a little over 3,000 rpm then the power dies off. I'm suspicious that its fuel starved. I have a swirl pot in the boot, the original hard fuel line (which looks too small), a pressure gauge inline and a choice between vacuum or manually-adjustable regulator. I'd be most grateful for advice on how to put this together. What size fuel lines? What type of lines and fittings? Optimal pumps and filter? What is the optimal fuel pressure? There is a narrow aperture pipe at the entrance to the fuel rail that the fuel hose fits onto. Is this a problem? Cheers Michael
  5. Hi Mick, You're right. When I installed the EFI I had to have the bottom of the plenum machined down 10mm and the plenum base about 8mm to make it all fit, even with a double-hump bonnet. I took 10mm off the bottom of all of the trumpets to keep the distance between the top of the trumpets and the plenum the same as when manufactured. Thanks for the Red Locktite tip. I'll slap some on. Does anyone know if the flared carbon fibre trumpets actually make any difference? Cheers Mike
  6. Hi, I have a 4.6L Range Rover P38 engine in the TR7 with a 14CUX EFI on top. I recently noticed a very marked decline in performance which had me baffled because pretty much all of the components are new or restored. I was installing a modification to get cold air intake and poked my finger in the air intake and found that the butterfly would only open by about 15 degrees before it stopped with a clunk. I pulled the plenum off and all of the trumpets were laying on their sides with one down the intake, jambing the butterfly. I had no idea this could happen. I can't find anything on the web, so would someone kindly advise the best way to keep the trumpets upright and doing their job properly? Cheers Michael
  7. Hello Helen, Thanks for getting in touch. Simon Eaton has already pointed me in the right direction. Regards Mike
  8. Hi, I finally have my dream engine in the TR7 (RRover 4.6L with fast street cam and high comp pistons, totally re-built). Hoping to fire it up for the first time this week, using my reliable old carb. However, the carb is being replaced with Lucas Hotwire (14CUX) EFI. Its all cleaned up and I have the vacuum and coolant plumbing sorted (I think), but wiring diagrams are protected like national security depends on it. Does anyone have access to a clear diagram for the 14CUX or, better still, instructions on how to integrate the whole EFI/ECU into a TR7/TR8? There must be lots of guys who have done this successfully. Thanks Mike
  9. Hi lads, I mentioned above that I have an early 3.5 block. Its going to be cheaper to bore that and insert new liners than buy a new short engine. Are there any critical reasons why I shouldn't do that? Alec, I haven't heard Andreas' comments before about not boring out the 3.5 block. What is your opinion? How important is cross-bolting the block? After reading David Hardcastle's book I have decided to go with EFI and, probably, turbo-charging. Keeping the original block leaves more cash for stage 2/3 cylinder heads and EFI. Does this seem reasonable or am I on a road to disaster? Mike
  10. Thank you Alec, this is just what I was looking for. I have ordered the books and will call John. BTW, did you know (probably not) that John Eales was the name of one of Australia's best ever Rugby players. He led the Wallabies to a World Cup win. Just a bit of useless information for you. Best regards Michael
  11. Hi, I have what appears to be an old-ish 3.5L RV8 in a TR7 body. It took a while to sort out because the engine number is not on the plinth beside the oil stick but on the rear flange of the block. The engine number is 42516115, which, I think, makes its heritage from a 1967-1976 automatic P6 Rover. It also has the CR (10.5:1) stamped beside the EN. The car is my daily ride and I want to continue to develop it as a fun track-day and hill climb car. Of course, I have received masses of conflicting advice on how to do this, but I have distilled it down to increasing the capacity to 3.9L which will give me new pistons and linings, adding a stage 2 header and sports cam. Carb and manifolds are OK for the moment, I think. My biggest question at the moment is "Is there any reason why I shouldn't modify an engine of this vintage?" If anyone knows about the origins of the these engines, I would be pleased to hear about it. The unit has found a happy home in Sydney. Thanks Mike
  12. Another alternative is to find a mirror assembly that can be fixed on/through the quarter windows or the quarter windows could be replaced with an aluminium plate to which the mirror assemblies could be anchored. Has anyone tried something like this? Mike
  13. Hi folks, I drive the Yellow Peril in heavy freeway traffic and I'm finding the original mirrors unsatisfactory. (I'm probably a bit spoilt by the mirrors on my more modern car.) Does anyone know of a make/model of side-view power mirrors that are compatible with a TR? My ideal would be something with a footprint that's similar to the present fixing point, but it might be expecting too much. Look forward to hearing from you. Mike
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