Jacking - out on the road

[SirTK]

I have mental niggle about what I would do if I got a puncture while out on the road.

 

I have tried a forum search about jacking but most of it refers to jacking while in the garage at home; the general consensus seems to be to call Green Flag and get them to fix the puncture. Now, with my Clarkson hat firmly on, that does seem a bit of a girlie way to behave so I wondered whether there is a common opinion for the type of jack to have with you in the boot?

 

During my forum search, I came up with this;

 

Has anyone ever tried the jacking method specified in the owner's handbook ? Apparently, you lift the carpet and remove the 4" rubber bung in the footwell, insert the special jack through the resulting orifice and engage it with the bracket fixed to the inside of the chassis rail, and jack away ! The special jack had long since disappeared from the boot of our car when we bought it, so I've never been able to try the technique.

 

I have done this, as I thought it may be the normal thing to do - I was in my garage at the time but it still seemed a bit precarious as the jack did not engage very well with the jacking point. However I was able to remove the wheel, which enabled me to stare vacantly at the various bits of brake and suspension I found underneath...

 

So, is there a recommendation for a specific type/model of jack, and any tips on procedure for wheel changing by the roadside. (I just know that if I am properly prepared it will probably never happen).

 

cheers, Terry

[Babs]

Best idea is to carry 2 warning triangles and a scissors type jack (bottle jacks will not fit under chassis) make sure you loosen wheel before raising car on the jack and same for tightening.

 

I also carry a bottle of self inflating gas /sealer (available from halfords etc.) but strictly for emergencies.

 

I have never suffered a puncture and am sure this is because I am well prepared, same as taking your brolly and it will never rain leave it at home and get soaked.

 

Regards Babs

[david ferry]

Terry

 

Small trolley jack every time. Quicker and safer than scissors type jacks. Fairly cheap to buy and easy to fix into the boot. I have one in my TR3a and there will be one in the TR4 when it finally makes it back onto the road.

 

David

[TR 2100]

So, is there a recommendation for a specific type/model of jack, and any tips on procedure for wheel changing by the roadside.

You'll only be doing this if you have a flat, in which case ground clearance will be

minimal.

The original jack is one of the few jacks that will operate when the car is so low.

 

The early (original) jack had a cast metal bracket, clamped on with a bolt.

Later ones had a fabricated bracket welded on.

 

I've had problems with the cast bracket, be careful the threads on the locking

bolt are not stripped.

I've also had problems with the welded-on bracket - it's not as strong as the cast

bracket, and can bend, resulting in the car slipping off the jack.

 

So. original jacks are great if you make sure they are sound. I would prefer to use

an original jack to lift the car enough to get a small trolley jack underneath, but how

many of us carry a trolley jack around in the boot.

I reckon a sound original jack is the best emergency option.

[Don Elliott]

Since I finished my restoration 94,000 miles ago, I went through 2 sets of radial tires and have about 10,000 miles on the present tires. I have never had a flat on the road. I only carry the jack that goes through the floor. I bought a replacement one about 8 years ago and pre-tested it for strength. The car did not lift so I removed the jack and found that the welded support had become so distorted that it would not have worked in an emegency at road-side. The steel sheetmetal used for the lift point on the jack was very soft steel, so I hammered it back into position and MIG welded additional side plates using thicker and stronger steel. Now it works.

 

The jack will lift the whole side of the car so don't be confused by this. And pre-test any new jack that you buy. I can't afford the space and the weight of a rolling trolley jack in the boot for an emergency along the side of the road that will never happen with the reliable tires we can buy today. But I use one all the time in my garage.

 

http://www.rucompatible.com/triumph/images/DE58.jpeg

Edited April 8, 2007 by Don Elliott

[jastr3]

I carry a scissors type jack. It fits in the within the well or hollow of the spare tire itself. I have used it a couple times over the years. It slides easily under the car when lowered due to the flat tire. Since you have tp get out of the car and open the s0pare tire compartment anyway, it has also seemed like an easier operation than pulling back the carpet, gettting back into the car, jacking it up, and then getting back out of the car while it is balanced up. Etc.

 

jastr3

[SirTK]

Thanks for the replies guys.

 

I think the question was well answered, with 2 votes for scissors, one for trolley and 2 for the original jack, modified in one case.

 

A further addition to the mix is that Bill Piggott suggests (in his book)

"the jack of any sidescreen TR should really be viewed as ornamental rather than useful"

and goes on to say that

"most owners prefer a more stable bottle jack"

.

 

So the definitive answer is that any or all types of jack are being happily used according to choice - now all I have to do is decide!

 

cheers, Terry

[Don Elliott]

If your decision will be based on the number of votes, let me add the following. If you get a puncture, and that's a big "IF", I doubt you will get a bottle jack under the car at the side of the road. And when I used a scissor jack, it was on the concrete floor in my garage under a Honda. The jack lifted the car, but near the top the car rolled about an inch even though it was blocked under the other tires and the jack twisted to the side. Then it all came down because of the distorted and damaged jack. I wouldn't vote for a scissor jack at the side of the road where the base of the scissor jack is sinking into the gravel or mud while trying to lift the car. If you place the base on a block of wood, a scissor jack will become extremely tippy.

 

The original jack will never slip as the force is straight down with the lifting force straight up. I always carry a block of wood, flat on two faces to help distribute the load if the jacking has to be done on a gravel or mud surface. And if you only have 2 or 3" of clearance at the jacking point, you can still accomplish the job of lifting the TR.

[TR 2100]

I doubt you will get a bottle jack under the car at the side of the road.

I wouldn't vote for a scissor jack at the side of the road where the base of the scissor jack is

sinking into the gravel or mud while trying to lift the car.

The original jack will never slip as the force is straight down with the lifting force straight up.

I always carry a block of wood, flat on two faces to help distribute the load if the jacking

has to be done on a gravel or mud surface. And if you only have 2 or 3" of clearance at

the jacking point, you can still accomplish the job of lifting the TR.

Agreed Agreed Agreed

 

The main (potential) problems are the initial height you need and the (bottle or scissor) jack

slipping against the chassis. The original jack will jack up from next to no height, and it

doesn't slip - it's located into the chassis.

 

Don't 'bottle' it and don't 'cut' corners.

 

AlanR