Engine Paint & Clutch Slave Cylinder

[Dex]

Gents.

 

I'm in the middle of an engine strip down and was wondering what is the best type of paint for the block.

The other thing is, would it be ok to use smooth hammerite on the Front plate, Rear plate, Sump and Timing Chain cover or would the paint used on the block be better for all?

Also is it ok to paint the inside surfaces or are they best left unpainted in case the paint comes off and gets into the oilways etc?

Another queery, I notice from the Moss catalogue that its possible to get a girling replacement clutch slave cylinder with an adjustable push rod...has anyone any experience of these?

 

Any advice appreciated.

Thanks

Dex

[Richard Crawley]

Dex

For the block you need a high temperature enamel, there are several on the market & there was a thread on this quiet recently. DON’T paint anything on the inside of the engine!

 

Personally I would not advise you use Smoothrite (Hamerite smooth) on anything, I did and sorely regretted it! It covers well & looks nice but when fully dry it’s very brittle & chips off like glass. Use ordinary black cellulose; I used aerosol cans as they are the most cost effective on small items & waste far less paint than using a high pressure gun & compressor unit.

 

Re the adjustable clutch slave cylinder; if you think you need one of these you almost certainly have a clutch release mechanism problem & all the adjustable unit does is mask this until the problem gets so bad you have to sort it properly; again lots of threads about this so do a search back through the archive posts.

[jerrytr5]

Re the adjustable clutch slave cylinder; if you think you need one of these you almost certainly have a clutch release mechanism problem & all the adjustable unit does is mask this until the problem gets so bad you have to sort it properly; again lots of threads about this so do a search back through the archive posts.

 

Richard, for once I would disagree. I made up an adjustable push rod many years ago. It enables one to take up all the slack in the mechanism and still leave sufficient clearance for full operation. I haven't seen this version referred to, but if it comprises a variable length push rod then it will be similar to the one I made. Didn't the side screen cars have adjustable push rods or am I making that up?

Jerry

[Andy Moltu]

They did - however they also had a return spring to pull the clutch operating lever back into the slave when the clutch is released - without this the plunger would return too far to operate the next time the clutch was pressed.

 

Excess clutch travel on the later cars can have a number of causes -

engine - worn crank thrust washers

Clutch operating mechanism - worn bushes, broken operating pin.

Hydraulics - air in system (especially if the slave has been mounted upside down) or an absent spring inside the slave itself which kes up the slack under normal circumstances.

 

A properly set up TR5/6 cluch should have negligable play without needing adjustable push rods.

[Richard Crawley]

Richard, for once I would disagree. I made up an adjustable push rod many years ago. It enables one to take up all the slack in the mechanism and still leave sufficient clearance for full operation. I haven't seen this version referred to, but if it comprises a variable length push rod then it will be similar to the one I made. Didn't the side screen cars have adjustable push rods or am I making that up?

Jerry

Jerry

Don’t know about the side screen cars but, believe me, if everything is as it should be you don't need an adjustable push rod; the 5/6 (& probably the 4) was not designed to have one. If the standard unit don't work properly, there are problems with any or all of the areas listed by Andy; + possibly these;

****/knackered clutch unit

Worn pedal box shaft/bearings

Worn master cylinder actuating rod/clevis pin

 

I’ve never had to resort to one of these in the 30 years I’ve had my 6 despite several clutches, master & slave cylinders, 2 recon engines & 3 recon gearboxes; just make sure everything else is overhauled properly when you get the chance & it works fine. I stand by my original comment; all an adjustable push rod does is mask the problems you have & extend the wear to a point it could be irreversible!

[Red Arrow]

Jerry

Don’t know about the side screen cars but, believe me, if everything is as it should be you don't need an adjustable push rod; the 5/6 (& probably the 4) was not designed to have one. If the standard unit don't work properly, there are problems with any or all of the areas listed by Andy; + possibly these;

****/knackered clutch unit

Worn pedal box shaft/bearings

Worn master cylinder actuating rod/clevis pin

 

I’ve never had to resort to one of these in the 30 years I’ve had my 6 despite several clutches, master & slave cylinders, 2 recon engines & 3 recon gearboxes; just make sure everything else is overhauled properly when you get the chance & it works fine. I stand by my original comment; all an adjustable push rod does is mask the problems you have & extend the wear to a point it could be irreversible!

 

Re the paint on the engine I have used and can reccomend ( and I dont have shares in them) the P800 Engine enamel from Frosts it is easy to put on and looks great with not too much gloss. Has not peeled or cracked so far (about 2000 miles)

Sorry, cannot comment on the clutch system as have had no problems in this area, although " aint broke- dont fix it " comes to mind. ie standard seems best good luck with your decision.

[jerrytr5]

Jerry

Don’t know about the side screen cars but, believe me, if everything is as it should be you don't need an adjustable push rod; the 5/6 (& probably the 4) was not designed to have one. If the standard unit don't work properly, there are problems with any or all of the areas listed by Andy; + possibly these;

****/knackered clutch unit

Worn pedal box shaft/bearings

Worn master cylinder actuating rod/clevis pin

 

I’ve never had to resort to one of these in the 30 years I’ve had my 6 despite several clutches, master & slave cylinders, 2 recon engines & 3 recon gearboxes; just make sure everything else is overhauled properly when you get the chance & it works fine. I stand by my original comment; all an adjustable push rod does is mask the problems you have & extend the wear to a point it could be irreversible!

 

I take your point but if we all stuck with the way things were designed originally nobody would make any improvements. Surely cross drilling the clutch release fork runs contrary to your argument, yet presumably this is something you might suggest. My experience comes from the bad old days when only QH replacement clutches were readily available and were marginal at best.

In my view, having the option of adjustability is a bonus - you don't have to use it.

Jerry

[Richard Crawley]

I take your point but if we all stuck with the way things were designed originally nobody would make any improvements. Surely cross drilling the clutch release fork runs contrary to your argument, yet presumably this is something you might suggest.

Jerry

 

I’m sorry but you’re reading things in to my post that simply aren’t there; I am not an aficionado of original is best (although on many occasions it was) & I’m not saying we should stick with things the way they were regardless of technological advances. As a qualified engineer, I am a firm believer in making improvements where they provide justified improvement over the original design & to this end, have made most of the recognised upgrades to my 6 as part of its restoration, including the cross shaft mods!

 

Many people fit new gearboxes, clutches, cylinders etc without giving too much thought about what contributory factors may be causing the problem & then wonder why it hasn’t made any difference. The condition of the supplementary components/bearings/linkages if so often overlooked &, with some cars, could mean they have never been touched or serviced for 30 odd years

 

The way to eradicate clutch release problems is to overhaul/repair the items known to have a contributory effect. Do this first & once everything is in good condition you won’t need an adjustable push rod but if you still like the idea of having one by all means fit it! But don’t do it in an effort to rectify problems caused by general wear & tear as it will only continue at an ever increasing rate & if there’s a problem with the crank thrust washers you could totally destroy the block!

[shuey]

hi i had prob with clutch not enough movement to operate correctly renewed all pins in peddel linkage improved it quite alot but still not correct then checked m/s cyl all ok so in the end put slinghtly longer push rod on slave and now works fantastic the clutch may be on its way out but as a short term and cheeper option this will do for time being a friend has an tr 2500 pi saloon that is fitted with adjustable clutch rod hes sure it was fitted from new

[Dex]

Sounds like I opened a can of worms here. anyway thanks gents I've ordered an original non adjustable cylinder as I've renewed all the linkages, bushes and pins.

Richard or indeed anyone with experience of cross drilling the release fork, is it recommended to cross drill the release fork as surely this weakens it. If you do ..what size bolt would you advise to fit and would you drill it as far away from the tapered pin hole as possible.

 

regards

Dex