roulli Posted October 6, 2006 Report Share Posted October 6, 2006 Hi everybody, my newly bought TR6 stalls digitally after a few miles. It will start again after a time range of a few seconds up to 30 minutes. The Webers get fuel, so I assume it is an ignition problem. The Rotor arm is a non-LUCAS, the shaft and the inner metal bit of the rotor are rusty! The points apear clean, no sparking problem, so the condesner should be fine. The disributor head doesn't look fresh neither, between the HT electrodes it has got scratches, which might be due to an internal sparking problem., or is it normal? The coil is a blue Bosch one, don't know how to test it? And now the questions: Assuming that I should start replacing the rotor arm & distributor cap, where can I still get the original LUCAS arm as it is said to be of superior quality (whatever that means) I think its part nbr. 418726. And of course the distributor cap that goes with the rotor arm. The LUCAS rotor is said to be only found in UK, true? I want to update as a second step to electronic ignition. What are the Pros and Cons of both Lumenition and Newtronic, or is performance and quality more or less the same? Thanks in advance for suport Patrick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Crawley Posted October 6, 2006 Report Share Posted October 6, 2006 Patric It sounds as if the condition of some of the components in your ignition system are a bit of an unknown entity. Assuming your dizzy is sound I would, personally, be inclined to bite the bullet & replace everything, including all the leads! As everything stops, it sounds as if there is either an intermittent fault to earth or the coil or condenser is breaking down due to heat. You could try replacing the points & condenser initially & if that doesn’t work, try a different coil. The 6 is very susceptible to the condition of the ignition system components & I service mine ever 3k miles & replace everything except the coil & leads every 10k miles. I’ve been running a Lumenition system for 2 ½ years now & the decision to go for this was based on advice from TRGB who tuned & rebuilt my engine. I don’t know bout the availability or otherwise of Lucas components in Luxemburg but ordering from a UK supplier should not be a problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Goswell Posted October 6, 2006 Report Share Posted October 6, 2006 Had the same issue and changed the coil and condensor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted October 6, 2006 Report Share Posted October 6, 2006 start with the rotor arm - their have been a spate of poor quality reproduction ones over the past few years. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Wyn Posted October 6, 2006 Report Share Posted October 6, 2006 Hi Patrick, I too run on webers and had the same problem when I bought the car, initially thought it was some form of fuel starvation. So infuriating, at times, I would overtake someone and cut out immediately after much to my embarrasment, dangerous too. I replaced the distributor cap and leads and solved the problem. Wyn Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Terry Pruce Posted October 6, 2006 Report Share Posted October 6, 2006 I would check the ignition switch as I had a very similar cutting out problem that would always restart. The switch was old and faulty. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roulli Posted October 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2006 I would check the ignition switch as I had a very similar cutting out problem that would always restart. The switch was old and faulty. Indeed,I forgot to mention, that my ignition lock has been replaced from the previous owner by a switch and a push button (à la TR3),because the ignition lock was faulty. At this point of time, the key has only the function to unlock the Steering wheel lock. I did check and improve the connections on this provisory switch connection. Of course I intend to reinstall a new lock, if only I knew how to remove the old broken one. I can't figure out,how o remove the crash pad aroung the lock. Cheers Patrick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted October 6, 2006 Report Share Posted October 6, 2006 Hello Patrick, I got a Beru rotor on my 6 for several years now and I would not look in the direction of Lucas. Many of these are of bad quality, hair cracks after short time. Further as far as I know not all rotors are suitable for electronic ignition. In certain cases Lumenition advises a rotor arm with a wide sweep capability. When advance occurs narrow arm tips might loose contact with the HT segment in the cap what could lead to component failure. The crash pad of the ignition switch is held by a bracket on the rear side, easy to remove. To remove the switch you will have to drill out the bolts, they are of the kind of "one time use" Is your car a U.S. conversion or CKD PI converted to Webers. Although originating from The G.D. of Lux I do not know any TR specialist in the G.D. I think there are none. You might contact Ian Cresswell for some information on TR spares, they are located in Steinsel a few miles N of the city, tel: 33 26 47 BTW. My car TR6 was first registered in Luxemburg where I bought it in 73. Jean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
badshead Posted October 6, 2006 Report Share Posted October 6, 2006 Patrick My guess would be that the problem is on the low tension side - dodgy intermittent connection. Connect a direct feed to the coil and see if that eliminates your problem. If so, renew the ignition circuit wiring including ballast lead. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roulli Posted October 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2006 @ Jean I ordered a Lucas rotor and disributor head today at TRGB as I could not find Lucas in Luxbg. I was actually offered a Beru rotor here, but I thought it would be the same rubbish, I had on my car. People in the German TR forum are actually keen on the original Lucas rotor arms. My car is a french blue 74' CF ex Florida. I bought it in Waterloo/Brussels, maybe you know the car. The engine nbr. is a CP... the distributor is a 22D6 41352 (should go with a CC...) the Gearbox with JOD is an MD... (from the sedan) - so I bought pretty much a bastard, from a mechanical point of view...but I like it. Thanks for the contact in Steinsel, I'll check it out. Thanks everybody for your kind support. Patrick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roulli Posted October 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2006 Walking the electronic ignition upgrade route, allows the installation a high voltage coil. Did anybody experience an improvement due to a high voltage coil, or is it just therory & sales argument? In this context the Newtronic is often associated to the 40kV LUCAS GOLD coil. Is this coil a good choice? Cheers Patrick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
badshead Posted October 7, 2006 Report Share Posted October 7, 2006 Walking the electronic ignition upgrade route, allows the installation a high voltage coil. Did anybody experience an improvement due to a high voltage coil, or is it just therory & sales argument? In this context the Newtronic is often associated to the 40kV LUCAS GOLD coil. Is this coil a good choice? Cheers Patrick Patrick No experience of the Newtronic, but Aldon (aka Pertronix in USA) and flamethrower coil works well for me. Buy it direct from here Aldon Ignitor - much cheaper than UK supplier. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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