Steering column tube/cowl rotation

[MilesA]

Having resolved the hood frame fouling on the roll bar I can turn my attention to the rotating steering column cowl. This is the metal tube that passes through the dash and the expanded tube that holds the light / indicator switches which are securely connected together. After a few minutes driving, the unit rotates about 1 cm to the right and settles there. Clearly not a major issue but an irritant particularly as I cannot tell if the overdrive is on as I lose the stalk’s reference to the speedo. 
 

I have looked at the securing bracket behind the dash and there is no felt packing between the upper part of the bracket and the metal tube. Research suggest this is all that is needed to eliminate the rotation.
 

Is that really the solution or is anything else required so that I can deal with this in one go. 

Thanks for your thoughts as ever.

Miles

[Z320]

Hi Miles,

if you turn the cowl left/right,

does the other end of the aluminum tube under the bonnet turn the same way?

Ciao, Marco 

[stuart]

Are you missing the spring item 51 here https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/steering-suspension/steering/steering-column-wheels-tr5-6-1967-76.html

Also as Marco says is it the bell where your switches are rotating away from the main tube?

Stuart.

[Z320]

If you have a steering lock this is where the aluminum tube can brake

[MilesA]

Marco and Stuart

The main tube and the "bell" (where the switches are located) are both secured together and the combined unit is rotating slightly to the right. No steering lock.

Not sure about the spring Stuart but as the felt is missing I would not be surprised! More investigation required although not the easiest location.

Thanks both.

Miles 

Edited June 28, 2023 by MilesA

[Z320]

Hi Miles,

the aluminum tube is 1st fixed with a steel strip on a bracket on the bulkhead, with a felt between. I used rubber there, it „glues“ on the surfaces.

And 2nd with a „spring“ (waved strip of steel) in the upper zinc cast bracket on the dashboard.
Sadly the aluminum tube is very soft and „the spring“ can damage the tube until it will not be tight anymore.

I fitted a bush of rolled 0.6 mm steel between and all was real tight again.

I look for a photo for you from one of my other posts.

 Ciao, Marco 

Edited June 28, 2023 by Z320

[Z320]

Here you see the yellow „spring“ on my rolled bush on the soft aluminum tube.

 

I wish you much success 

[MilesA]

Hi Marco

That is extremely helpful, especially the photograph. I will have a much closer inspection and have a solution if needed. Thank you very much. 

Miles

[BaulyCars]

Hi Miles,

The felt is what takes up the tolerance in the clamp to produce a tight enough fitting - it is also Triumph’s design that the clamp is not so tight that the column can slide through the clamp in the event of an accident (that the steering column collapses). The spring and felt were the solution to that. 

The bolt flange faces of the top and bottom clamps are also supposed to come together tight (you can’t necessarily tune the clamping action with how tightly you do the bolts up), such that at exactly the position the clamps come together the clamping action is supposed to be ‘just right’, again something difficult to judge if the felt has lost a little thickness and as Marco rightly advises the tube has been distorted.

Worse, on mine at least, is the effect that the channel on the underside of the column (that houses the wiring) is pushed up hard against the column and tends to dig in to the column forming two ridge lines (often seen in photos of peoples columns). This further loosens the clamping action, and again on my column means that the edges of the bottom clamp actually come into contact with the column, digging themselves in (which then add resistance to the column sliding).

It’s not a particularly good design given the two fundamentally opposing tasks the clamp needs to achieve, and that the clamp itself damages the column. 

I experimented with different felt and foam thicknesses on the bottom clamp but ultimately found that using a piece of felt on the top clamp gives a nice clamp action that still feels ‘not too tight’. And try to make sure your bottom clamp isn’t digging in to the underside of the column once fully tight, in case you have wear like I found on mine. 

I’ve got lots of photos of that area if you need which I could send you if that would be useful. 
 

Kind Regards

Toby

[Z320]

BTW Miles,

on my TR the channel on the underside of the tube, mentioned by Toby, is missing.

IMO it makes the hole assembly needless complicated to install,

in this point I agree with one of the previous owners of my TR, who let it away.

Ciao, Marco 

 

 

[MilesA]

Toby - thank you for your comments and experience. As is often the case with these cars, a simple problem throws up the original design rationale and considered solutions from owners. I need to jack-knife myself under the dash again to work out what is in place and what is missing. Thanks for the offer of photos. I will PM you if I need any. 

Marco - thanks for your thoughts. As I intend to install a column mounted dipswitch as I cannot easily operate the foot switch, the cable cover may be unable to accommodate the extra cables and so have to be removed. 

Thanks

Miles

[MilesA]

Following the need to replace my failed headlamp switch (see my other thread), I was able to inspect fully the steering column set up. 

Stuart was correct: the clip which should be located under the upper clamp was missing as was the ‘H’ brace between the clamp closest to the dash and the one securing the column to the bulkhead. 

Having replaced the missing clip (thanks Conrad) in the upper clamp, the steering column is now rock solid and no longer swivels. So thanks all. 

I was not able to install the missing H brace (again, thanks Conrad) because the bolts from the two clamps do not quite line up with the holes in the brace. It is marginal and I suspect loosening all 4 off will be sufficient. Unfortunately, with a tiny lock up and seats in place I simply cannot get at the front clamp bolts on the bulkhead. So I will drive the car for the rest of the summer until I can blag use of a larger garage in the winter to get at the front clamp. 

So thanks again. Another problem created by previous hands on the car resolved by Forum users. 

Miles