R9mey Posted December 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2022 (edited) Thanks for all the comments all back together now and I have put a new pinion oil seal in Marked up the shaft and flange so as to get the same preload pulled the old one out and gently tapped the new one in went better than expected no pullers required!! Edited December 21, 2022 by R9mey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
R9mey Posted December 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2022 (edited) Also whilst cleaning and preparing I have taken the brake banjos apart to clean, I was about to put new bleed nipples in but when I got the old ones out they are spring loaded Not seen this type before I guess they make bleeding easier as it would act as valve, quite a complicated item for a very infrequently used part. see picture The new one is as supplied by Moss Europe. Edited December 21, 2022 by R9mey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted December 21, 2022 Report Share Posted December 21, 2022 (edited) Those sprung valves used to be readily available back in the 60's-70's. I used to have them on my AH Sprite back then but I haven't seen any for a long time. A web search does find one similar device but it looks expensive: https://www.stahlbus.com/products/en/bleeding-system/index.php Edited December 21, 2022 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted December 21, 2022 Report Share Posted December 21, 2022 (edited) 56 minutes ago, R9mey said: Thanks for all the comments all back together now and I have put a new pinion oil seal in Marked up the shaft and flange so as to get the same preload pulled the old one out and gently tapped the new one in went better than expected no pullers required!! Was there a groove in the pinion flange area that the seal touches? If so did you fit a speedi sleeve? Info use 99149 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/99149-SKF-Speedi-Sleeve-For-38-10mm-1-500-Shaft/255186333739?hash=item3b6a4a702b:g:8KUAAOSwjuRhbq98&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAAoJxQPcWLDL6G0J2Ut2TSbhEGQ1jIrxjuOH2XqcYDXK/RPAiT2fLKHpgG7XYjXRec2ZwT15lR5RHjsCBzdxytdMpwAnwxVNpZZILTIdMh3aACsVjsvvay0Q8kJZF3PRRt2fd87+AjE1YiHgJzgIkuxB7WUQVKmQD1BomoZ4pa3ahpFFPk6ODwfm2yU0qphJxtezhmfUjflTyg+ZyceJLHkwg=|tkp:Bk9SR7av4uqmYQ&pageci=392c7da1-282a-400c-b992-5fcd30d35679&redirect=mobile Posted May 2 Speedi Sleeve - Made by SKF to repair worn seal areas of shafts etc. 1. Half Shaft Girling solid axle. TR3/3A/3B/4/4A . where the axle tube seal wears on the axle shaft. - SKF 99131 or SKF CR 99131 (CR is uprated item) 2. Pinion Drive Flange on the nose of the axle/diff. TR2/3/3A/3B/4/4A/4A IRS/250/5/6. - SKF 99149 or SKF CR 99149 (CR is uprated item) (Moss 520-500) 3. Front Crank Pulley. Wet liner Engine . TR 2/3/3A/3B/4/4A/4A IRS - SKF 99175 or SKF CR 99175. (1/2" wide) (CR Type is uprated item) (Moss 520-505) NB. You can use SKF 99174 or SKF CR 99174 which are 3/8" wide and need care when installing to get in the right position over the wear groove of the engine front pulley drive flange. Edited December 21, 2022 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
R9mey Posted December 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2022 Thanks, I have read about those sleeves so I did check, the pinion shaft was in good condition no grove I figured that the spring type bleed nipples were to aid bleeding but I guess they proved too expensive to use. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted December 21, 2022 Report Share Posted December 21, 2022 Looks like you have it all sorted as far as re doing the axle. How long before it is in the car and you will be back on the road? PS don’t forget the refill the oil in the axle. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
R9mey Posted December 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2022 Yes I am going to drain the oil and refill with fresh and also clean the breather Aiming to get the axle back on the chassis over the hols The overall plan is a bit longer May be mid summer? I am about 3/4 done on the body currently waiting on delivery of new rear panel Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GSP Posted November 11, 2023 Report Share Posted November 11, 2023 Hello R9mey I have a 1955 rear axle with Disc wheels like yours. I am having trouble getting the half axles out after I removed the large castell nut and washer plus the spline tapper collar will not come out either. I also have the 4 bolts off the hub and brake plate. My question is, how did you get the ½ axles out without the churchhill tool? Like you guys said they are supposed to slide right out. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 11, 2023 Report Share Posted November 11, 2023 Are you trying to remove the drive flange or the entire half shaft to fix a seal leak? Undo the the 4 nuts and bolts and the entire assy should pull out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GSP Posted November 14, 2023 Report Share Posted November 14, 2023 Thanks for the help, I did that and found the axle was stuck somehow. I was able to remove the ½ axle by turning the 4 bolt patterns a little away from each other and using a punch from the back the axle came out easily. i was able to get the hub off with a puller, but the split tapered collar is stuck in the hub. I am presently soaking the hub to clean that up. I think I will use a little heat and perhaps try and push the collar out from the back with a punch in the little gap there is between axle and collar. There might be a fancy puller out there somewhere, but I have not got that far yet. I guess these collars are impossible to find, so if it fights too much I will probably leave it. The torque on the axle nut was not much; my air gun spun it right off, but again hard to be sure after an impact gun. It looked to me the manual suggested around a 100+lbs of torque. I believe it actually needs to go in a little tighter if that is the case, which is educated guess. If I have to leave collars in place where they at, I am ok with that because I would hate to break one. Thanks Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 16, 2023 Report Share Posted November 16, 2023 (edited) Soak the hub in penetrating fluid and you should be able to drift the splined collet out from the rear. GENERAL DATA NUT TIGHTENING TORQUES Flange to axle shaft of Lockheed type axle. depending on axle number Torque increases at axle number TS 8039 when the nut changed part number. 100 to 125. Or. 125 to 145. Half shaft hub seals. Edited November 16, 2023 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.