FatJon Posted August 23, 2021 Report Share Posted August 23, 2021 3 hours ago, RichyBarber said: I meant tweaking the fuel map and ignition map. At RR , they will use their own 02 sensor. Fair comment on cable ties - will look at this / find a solution. - have doubled up ties since the picture. I have been known to be a bit rough and ready but cable ties for holding down a high pressure fuel rail is a step too far, even for me. I would at the very least go to stainless ones which won't weaken under UV and heat cycling. I have a TVR Cerbera which as standard uses some 1/2" stainless ones and that has been trouble free for 21 years now. With regard to Emerald, Dave Walker knows his stuff. We will be able to advise you well on the condition of the engine. He tuned the TVR which was good fun and involved 38 stone of me and my brother in the boot to keep it stuck to the rollers. On my TR6 I use a combination of MAP(vacuum) and Alpha-N whereby the MAP signal is in play until the manifold vacuum becomes unreliable and then is blends over to using throttle position only. I define a curve of vacuum against RPM and throttle position across the range and where this crosses 85% of atmospheric defines the switch point from MAP to TPS. Not sure if the Emerald has this facility but if so it seems to be a good solution. It has enabled me to use an idle speed control valve which is all but impossible with throttle position only. This does add a nice touch of refinement to cold starts and changing electrical loads. I also ramp up the idle speed by 150 RPM when the fan cuts in which increases the water flow and brings everything back into the green zone quickly when heat soak happens, like after a long high speed run that ends at the back of a traffic jam. Modern O2 sensors are very much more reliable than the ones of 10 years ago. I have used Bosch LSU4.9 ones with Zeitronix controllers for some years with 100% reliability accuracy (touches wood). With some Innovate ones of 10+ years back I had a near 100% failure rate and could not trust them at all. The wideband 02 system is useful for getting the fuelling to where you define it initially during setup but less useful in knowing whether the air fuel ratio you defined is actually optimal, that's where the skill of the RR man comes into play. Once setup I allow mine +/-10% authority but only to 5000RPM and below 90% throttle. Outside those ranges it reports but doesn't correct. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RichyBarber Posted August 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2021 thanks Jon - good idea on the stainless ties. i will be speaking with emerald again and go with there advice. On the seven, i had an innovate LC1 which regularly gave trouble - may look at the more modern versions for the TR6. You guys seem to know so much more than me - i really am a novice on much of this !!! thanks all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FatJon Posted August 23, 2021 Report Share Posted August 23, 2021 Expert, no, but I have been building engines both turbo and non turbo with electronic injection systems for 30 years so I have developed a feeling for what works and what doesn't. I concur on the LC1's. Had no luck at all with them but I stopped using them more than 15 years ago so maybe they've ironed out the problems now so it would be unfair to dis them out-of-hand. Good luck with the tuning and pass on my regards to Dave, he may well recall two fat lads in the boot of a yellow Cerbera V8 a good few years ago. I'm sure it was a sight not easily forgotten. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil Read Posted August 23, 2021 Report Share Posted August 23, 2021 (edited) On 8/22/2021 at 2:19 PM, RichyBarber said: es car had stood for a while, but i did rebuild the head. in hinesite i should have invested in rings / honed it and spent more time on seating valves. It does run ok ish - have had to tweak the MAP settings to get it somewhere near ok. Have only done about 50 miles, so maybe will settle in. I am kind of set on getting it set up properly with emerald first, run for a few hundred miles and monitor. Failing that, i will pull the head over winter / maybe pull engine if i need to - may have to do this anyway as need to sort my A type OD which is not engaging currently Therein lies you problem. Put at least 500 to 1000 miles on it. If it does not improve, then do something about it. Are you racing it? If not apart from the first test on number 5 the compressions seem ok, i would not worry. Edited August 23, 2021 by Phil Read Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RichyBarber Posted August 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2021 No not racing it - just want some fun while the weather is good !! i am trying not to worry !!! - will update all soon..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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