Bahman Posted August 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2021 Thanks for your input everyone. I have put the bits back together and adjusted the settings per the Brown book, took it for a long drive.....it is great to have it back on the road again.....from time to time when going from 4th gear to 3rd or 2nd to third int his example, the car seems to momentarily starve of fuel or air or both, where it coughs and splatters, juddering....recovering after few seconds. I recall this happened before when I first had the car, I put it down to the lack of experience of driving this type of car. I need to look at the temperamental behaviour of the petrol gauge and the indicator, both decided not work yesterday... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bahman Posted August 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2021 Hi I was following this thread... then I checked my own car and there seems to be a condenser(in Blue) behind the coil but there is no connection from the coil to the condenser, in fact the wire is missing from the condenser. Can anyone confirm if this is the condenser in question which should be connected to the positive connection of the coil, if so, where is the best place to source one. The make of the condenser is Dubilier....I have included a photos. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted August 29, 2021 Report Share Posted August 29, 2021 That looks like a noise-suppression capacitor for a radio rather than anything to do with the ignition. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bahman Posted August 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2021 Thanks for the clarification Rob, Is it possible that the condenser has been incorporated into the coil assembly, it is a Lucas type. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted August 29, 2021 Report Share Posted August 29, 2021 For a points-ignition car the condenser is inside the distributor. Does your car have points or has it been converted to electronic ignition? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bahman Posted August 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2021 My car has a points-ignition....so must be inside the coil... So I need to continue investigating the root cause of spluttering from time to time when going from the 4th gear to lower gears, the car seems to momentarily starve of fuel or air or both Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnC Posted August 29, 2021 Report Share Posted August 29, 2021 6 hours ago, Bahman said: My car has a points-ignition....so must be inside the coil... As Rob says, it's in the distributor, not in the coil. It's a seperate item. Easy to identify if you take off the dizzy cap. And why not change the points and condenser while you're there? The blue thing does indeed look like a noise suppression capacitor. Nothing to see there. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bahman Posted August 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2021 Thanks John I am going to replace the items you mentioned as well as the rotary arm, with a Red type. The Distributor Doctor has been recommended by the members, so I will be sourcing them from them. I will be replacing one item at a time..... just to be prudent. Any other advice is welcome... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnC Posted August 30, 2021 Report Share Posted August 30, 2021 2 hours ago, Bahman said: Any other advice is welcome... If there's one thing I've learned in over 30 years of TR ownership (yes, I know I'm a newbie), it's that you need to sort the simple (and cheap) stuff first. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bahman Posted August 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2021 I agree.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bahman Posted September 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2021 Hi everyone I need your advice and help please I replaced the condensor/capacitor, the contact points and the rotor arm, all sourced from Distributor Doctor. But before I changed the components I had to clean the rust off the main rotor, see the photo. After making these changes the engine refuses to start....I have used to spark plug tester... can not see any sparks being generated out of the distributor cap. I replaced the old components, the engine still refuses to start. Bahman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted September 17, 2021 Report Share Posted September 17, 2021 Since this fault coincided with your replacing the points, it is likely to be due to something you have done. From the photo one can see a lot of loose grit. If that is also between the points contacts it will stop them closing. As a first step I suggest you check that the wire connections and the insulating washers have been assembled in the right order. The white wire and the orange one from the condenser should both be in electrical contact with the points spring and neither should be earthed when the points are open. The spring should be held clear of the mounting pillar, by the plastic washers. You will probably need to remove the connection from the coil '- ' terminal to make resistance measurements. Check that the earth contact on the points actually is earthed. There is a flexible earth wire from the base-plate to one of the mounting screws at the side. Check that you have supply to the coil when the ignition is on. A meter or small bulb connected across the points should show a voltage when the points are open and none when they are closed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bahman Posted September 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2021 Hi Rob Thank you for the detailed technical explanation I managed to narrow down the problem to a faulty set of points, which I have recently purchased. In summary, the meter registers open circuit when the points are closed. I have replaced it with a new one but the engine still runs very lumpy with spark plugs quite black and smell of rich mixture. For information, the spark plug tester confirms the distributor is generating sparks to the spark plugs. Any help, guidance would be much appreciated.. Bahman... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted September 20, 2021 Report Share Posted September 20, 2021 Are you sure the enrichment lever on the side of the MU is disengaging fully when the choke knob is pushed in? Otherwise the MU might need an overhaul and recalibrating. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bahman Posted September 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2021 Hi Mike Thank you for your response. Yes, it is disengaging all the way back.... I was in a classic car show recently in Hertfordshire, where I live, spoke to a couple of TR6 owners about this issue, their views were also the same as yours...luckily there is a specialist garage about 12 miles away from my house where I can take the car for a check up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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