gnotte Posted February 16, 2006 Report Share Posted February 16, 2006 (edited) Brydon, we don't know yet about the Adey's engine but we give him some time to test it by speaking about paraffin... Don, in Belgium, beer is not in the solvent category but in the lubricant that's why we drink it so much, just to keep the body off jaming. But now there is a study to make cars running with beer, with the petrol prices raises it will become cheaper. Mychael, I will not discuss about the fact that you have the best kangaroo in Australia but about the beer, you will have to visit us and then you will know.. we have a brewery every square mile and we produce beer as much as the Arab Emirates produce petrol , but not like them, we drink it.. So, back with my paraffin group. Perhaps I am confused with the fact that sometimes you call the fuel as petrol, in Belgium they are two different products. We call essence = fuel petrol = ? may be paraffin, it is a clear product used on small eater. So, if you don't use petrol name for other product then fuel, probably petrol (french) is paraffin and we got it. Unless Jonglar comes and says your petrol is not my paraffin !!! Edited February 16, 2006 by gnotte Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mychael Posted February 16, 2006 Report Share Posted February 16, 2006 Truth be told I'm not much of a beer expert. Rarely do I drink it. National pride made me say it .lol I was told that our Fosters Lager was so popular that there is a specialist pub in England that sells the stuff and does a roaring trade. I'm not sure you can even purchase White Spirit here now. I've not seen it for a long time. Now what about your diesal? don't you have different grades there? We just have 'diesal'. Mychael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ade-TR4 Posted February 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2006 Update on the progress (or lack of...) Measured the deck heights of the liners again and discovered that they wer still out! So, back to the engineering shop (fortunately it's my Father's company - VERY useful). On the granite slab measuring table we discovered that the top to bottom measurments (ie the whole liner) were consistent to within 0.001" - pretty good. However the the seating collar to the top surface was out by 0.010" on one and 0.008" on another i.e. the upper and lower seating surfaces were not parallel. This would lead to the liner being seated at an angle in the block or with a gap/ poor seating on the liner gasket. (the other two were spot on btw). I obtained another set and measured them again - much improved. This set however, would not even fit in the block as the spigotted ends (lower part of the liner) were too big to slot into the block.---ARRRRRRGGGHHHHH! So, set number 3 is on it's way....I'll keep you posted! Adey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gnotte Posted February 18, 2006 Report Share Posted February 18, 2006 Hi Adey, bad luck having such problems when you try to fix with new parts is very frustrating. What is the brand of your liners, and what is the size ? I am quite affraid about what happens to you as I boot my set of liners and pistons more then one year ago, it will not be possible to exchange it, should the same thing arise to me. I never imagined this could happens and just store them without any control. I have not see any informations about the distance between the top and the flanged face, how can you say that it is out of .010" is it just by comparing with the others ? Guy PS: to the paraffin club, I have been in a shop where they sell heaters and on the box of a heater in was written in several languages the heater run with paraffin in english and petrol in french, petroleum in german. So, we can close the investigations, and thanks to all folk involved . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jonlar Posted February 18, 2006 Report Share Posted February 18, 2006 PS: to the paraffin club, I have been in a shop where they sell heaters and on the box of a heater in was written in several languages the heater run with paraffin in english and petrol in french, petroleum in german. So, we can close the investigations, and thanks to all folk involved . Thanks for that Guy, I didn't want you to end up setting fire to yourself, or even worse the car or parts! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted February 18, 2006 Report Share Posted February 18, 2006 Another question : do you use any compound to the joints?The thickness of these fig. of 8 joints is variable : the copper ones are a little thicker than the aluminium ones. Anyway, checking the amount of protruding of the liners above the engine deck block is very important to get the cyl. head gasket tight (combustion and cooling fluid) Just at all engines where I have removed the liners, the fig. 8 gasket is corroded. The metal color gasket is mild steel and corrode very well. To protect the area from corroding I apply a layer silicone liquide gasket into the block, fit the fig. 8 gasket onto that. Than the liners get a thick silicone layer onto its foot. After installing the liners to the block the fig. 8 gasket is coated with silicone from both sides. The gasket is kept dry and can't corrode. Push the liners in place with the cylinder head torgued up to 75 Nm. Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gnotte Posted February 19, 2006 Report Share Posted February 19, 2006 Hi Chris, what is the brand of the silicone you use and do you wait until it is dry before fitting or do you press everything with the head when the silicon is still wet ? Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted February 19, 2006 Report Share Posted February 19, 2006 what is the brand of the silicone you use and do you wait until it is dry before fitting or do you presseverything with the head when the silicon is still wet ? Hi Guy, unfortunately I live in Germany and use local stuff. But as a hind - for the fig. 8 gasket I use gluing silicone like DIRKO. I install the liner to the block when the silicone is wet. For the head gasket I use a thin layer on both sides of non sticking silicone like Wuerth (Würth) silicone special 210. It is a red paste. This one I install after 30min drying. Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gnotte Posted February 21, 2006 Report Share Posted February 21, 2006 Thanks Chris, What a site !!!!! MGA GURU never seen a so complete site with a lot of interesting topics for Triumph owners too. Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ade-TR4 Posted March 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2006 Finally...! Got the engine back together on Thursday night; (complete with correct size and tolerance liners). But it wouldn't start... Spent friday night swearing at it, still no improvement. Saturday, helped arrived in the shape of Byrdon, and a methodical approach reveal a small gap at the bottom edge of the inlet manifold where the manifold had not quite seated on the head dowels correctly which allowed air to be sucked in via the leak rather than the carbs -believe me it took a while to find this! Once reseated and sealed the engine started first time and sounded spot on. I am a happy TR owner again! Cheers to Andy for the help! Adey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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