Guest Bob N Posted April 17, 2003 Report Share Posted April 17, 2003 Anybody know how to open the bonnet on the TR6 after either the inner cable has become detached from the clamp or the inner cable has snapped. Cheers Bob N Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jonlar Posted April 17, 2003 Report Share Posted April 17, 2003 Hi Bob, This subject is well covered on pages 149/150 of Roger Williams' excellent restoration manual. If you haven't got a copy and want to know what's said, ring me on 01326 240721, and I'll read it to you, or if not such a desperate rush photo-copy it for you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Red 6 Posted April 17, 2003 Report Share Posted April 17, 2003 Bob, Be prepared to bleed! It happened to a chap he tried for 23 years to get the bonnet up, and just left the car in his garage and walked away. It has also happened to me. This is my method. 1. Remove the front grille to gain access to the bolts which hold the bonnet hinges to the inner wing. To do this is almost impossible as the grill bolts will be rusted if you can get to them, I managed it, 2hrs. 2. Remove hinge bolts, almost impossible as the air filter is in the way and the bolts will be rusted. 4 hrs. 3. The bonnet can be lifted a little to allow a wooden pole which must be bowed to clear the injector manifold, I used an ancient garden hoe handle which happened to be the right shape, to be inserted from the front between bonnet and the top of the front panel and shoved in to make contact with the release mechanism. 4. Now here is the clever bit, your assistant (or by now your nurse or therapist) must push down on the trailing edge of the bonnet above the release mechanism to remove the pressure whilst you poke around trying to press the right bit.(a lifetime) When you hear the thwang the first part is over now you must put it all back together again. If it ever happens to me again i will not hesitate to get a lever under the nearside rear of the bonnet and lever the b*****d up until it is buckled in half and reach in and release it by hand, then buy a 2nd hand bonnet paint and refit same, oh yes and fit a secondary release mechanism (which i have on all my cars since that fateful day). On a 5 its easier because the bonnet reinforcement which runs the length of the bonnet is small therefore you can lever the nearside up (but not as previously described) a bit and using the bent wooden pole, this time to clear the battery (hence wooden) prod the release mechanism. Next time you attend a big meet have a good look at the 4,4a and 5s and see how many creases you can count. The very best of luck with your endeavours. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest barry100 Posted April 18, 2003 Report Share Posted April 18, 2003 Hi Bob This happened to me a few years ago on a R/hdrive tr4, I took the speedo cable out (pushed it in to the engine bay) and moved the lever with a large screw driver (I think) or hooked it with a piece of thick wire. Any way check out another tr 6 and see what holes are in the area Good Luck Barry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest barry100 Posted April 19, 2003 Report Share Posted April 19, 2003 Hi Bob I have just remembered the method I used A length of rod 5/16" to 3/8, measure 3" from one end then bend 90 deg' measure 41/2" mark it with white paint,( to be lined up with the fire wall) measure 12" then bend the rest of the rod 90 deg'( 180 deg'from the 3")The 3" is up to push the bonnet release,the other end is down and turned c/w For R/h Tr4 Regards Barry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ian richardson Posted April 19, 2003 Report Share Posted April 19, 2003 Bob, There is an article about this problem on the Michelotti TR website, as well as a load of other useful stuff. Find it at:- http://www.Buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Bonnet/Bonnet.htm Good Luck Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted April 20, 2003 Report Share Posted April 20, 2003 Just remember the battery terminals! If you can - try taping up the wire you use with inuslation tape just in case you touch a live lire/terminal. The easiest way I have found is to use a stiff wire (welding rod or coat hanger) with a hook bent into one end and thread it through the bulkhead from the right hands side (Drivers side on a UK car) and try & loop it around the catch mechanism). Tug gently & keep trying. When you have done it fit an auxillary cable - either home made or one of the kits made by Prestige. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Bob N Posted April 21, 2003 Report Share Posted April 21, 2003 Thanks everyone I had a go yesterday with no luck but will try and go though the bulkhead with the bent rod which I will INSULATE!! Bob N Quote Link to post Share on other sites
simon tr6 Posted April 21, 2003 Report Share Posted April 21, 2003 Where do you live in the country? There maybe a member living close to you,who will give you a hand. Simon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob Posted April 22, 2003 Report Share Posted April 22, 2003 I can't tell from mine as the body tub is in two halves in a shed, but is it possible to gain access from below with the car on ramps? It will certainly be difficult but I would have thought it possible, maybe with the help of a mirror and length of stiff wire! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Bob N Posted April 23, 2003 Report Share Posted April 23, 2003 I have been to see the guys at CTM Enineering and they are going to have a go for me. They think that they can get to it by remoiving exhaust. Thought the bent rod a bit risky with the battery terminal thereabouts. Thanks to everyone who replied Bob N Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Colin S Posted April 27, 2003 Report Share Posted April 27, 2003 Andy, Do you have any contact details for Prestige (for the auxiliary release you mention)? Sounds useful. thanks Colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted April 28, 2003 Report Share Posted April 28, 2003 This seems to be their web site Quote Link to post Share on other sites
yellowtriumph Posted April 28, 2003 Report Share Posted April 28, 2003 This has happened to me three times now - I can get the bonnet off and on inside an hour by using the following method. 1. Jack up the front of the car to make it COMFORTABLE for you to jiggle about at odd angles under the front of the car. Secure the car on axle stands. 2. On offside where the front wing meets the front valance there is a hole big enough to get your hand up through - small but big enough. Reach up through it and seek out the front air filter canister. Feel for the screw on the retaining lock clip and using a short stubby screwdriver undo it. Jiggle the canister until it comes away from the flexible hose connector and let it drop down between the front of the radiator and front grille - be careful not to let it damage the front of the radiator. 3. If you get yourself in the right position and reach right up you will now feel the 3 bonnet bolts - its a long way up hence 1. above but you will feel them. Before you do anything else get a short black marker pen, reach up and mark the position of the bonnet hinge to bonnet (this will enable you to put the bonnet back on in exactly the same position). Use a half inch ring spanner ( I think) undo the three bolts. 4. Find the same gap where the front nearside wing meets the front valance - even easier than the offside although you may get a little bit more access if you lift up the water bottle. Follow the procedure as in 3. 5. Now the front of the bonnet is released gently (and I mean gently) lift up the front of the bonnet such that at the back of the bonnet you can see the jammed/broken bonnet catch. 6. Poke whatever you think fit to release the bonnet catch - I use a length of stiff wire with a hook on it. 7. Follow the reverse procedure to re-fit the bonnet after you've done although of course now it will be easier and fit an emergency 'wire' through the dashboard to the bonnet release so you don't have to do this again. 8. When refitting the air cannister back on make sure that you fit the screw on the locking clip pointing down to make it easier for youself if you ever have to do this again. 9. On some cars perhaps the cardboard air-dam might get in the way - I found this could be bent out of the way - hopefully on your car too? 10. A tip for all. Mark your bonnet hinge positions now whilst your bonnet fits perfectly so that in the future etc etc. I can do his blindfold now although even I have fitted a piece of emergency wire !! Hope this helps. kind regards, yt. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Thomas Kopka Posted April 28, 2003 Report Share Posted April 28, 2003 Hi guys, good for those who have prepared an alternative solution before the cables goes!! I'm not sure whether the following solution has been posted in this forum before, but here is an option that I am using now as my regular way to open the bonnet: http://www.davidsims.ukgateway.net/hood_release.htm Works absolutely perfect. Best Thomas Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Bob N Posted May 13, 2003 Report Share Posted May 13, 2003 Just to finish the saga. CTM manged to open it after 4.5 hours labour. Still we learn by our mistakes don't we?????? Thanks to everyone that replied. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Colin S Posted May 13, 2003 Report Share Posted May 13, 2003 Andy, Thanks for the earlier contact details on Prestige - I've ordered the kit from them (I didn't like the sound of Bob's saga...) Colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted May 14, 2003 Report Share Posted May 14, 2003 I've also found this page which shows a DIY auxillary bonnet release mechanism. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris Porter Posted July 26, 2006 Report Share Posted July 26, 2006 Its taken an awful long time due to other distractions but the bonnet has been released. Especial thanks to John Larken for helpful advice over the phone. I would suggest everyone regularly checks how well the cable is secured to the catch and also fits a secondary cable that sits behind the dash having having got there through the speedo cable hole. Believe me, its a pig of a job - hope some of the following may help others in a similar situation. Firstly, I don't see how anyone can directly release the catch from underneath. The idea of the bent rod via the speedo cable hole sounded v. difficult to me but I'm sure can work. I'd had the dash out shortly before for another reason and couldn't face doing it all again therefore. Instead I went for the keyhole surgery option of undoing the three bolts either side that secure the bonnet at the front of the car. Having done this, I used an old tubular metal broom handle (suitably taped to avoid shorting out the battery) bent at 90 degrees about 4" from one end. Rather than push this under the bonnet from the front, I went in at the side in line with the battery. Once beyond the battery, I twisted the handle through 90 deg. so that the bent bit pushed against the bonnet catch and Hey Presto! Some people have suggested marking the position of the bonnet hinge plates from underneath before releasing. I tried this with a felt tip wired to a stick but the result was a lot of interesting but innaccurate scribbles under the bonnet. However, readjustment did not prove difficult. Hope some of this helps the next victim. Chris Porter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EricTR6 Posted July 26, 2006 Report Share Posted July 26, 2006 I have fitted an emergency release frome Ebay.( see : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-TR4...sspagenameZWDVW ) I only use this release now to open the bonnet. I'm not sure there is room enough for it with the RHD. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ron Posted July 26, 2006 Report Share Posted July 26, 2006 An extra release is very easy to make on RHD, and strongly recommended, all you need is a length of Bowden cable attached to the release lever and brought in through the bulkhead by a small hole beside the steering column. As a side issue, the postive terminal of the battery should have an insulating cover on it, if this is missing I would strongly advise people to get one due to the proximity of the battery to the underside of the bonnet in event of an accident. Ron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jemgee Posted July 26, 2006 Report Share Posted July 26, 2006 I always intended to get round to fitting an auxilliary opener but decided to replace the original cable as a start. I then got a length of heavy nylon strimmer line which by test appears near unbreakable. A couple of nonslip knots over the wire clamp stud and fed it through bulkhead grommit and formed a hand loop and its sitting there behind the dashboard - on a test it worked. I once had an Alfa Sud which was factory fitted with this arrangement next to the under dashboard release handle Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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