re-torqueing aluminium head

[Ian Vincent]

Happy New Year to everyone.

 

My TR3a has an aluminium head, not for performance reasons, but because my original head was scrap; I needed a replacement and the first that was offered was aluminium.

 

Earlier today when I started it after a few days standing idle, it kicked out a lot of white smoke from the exhaust initially before settling down to idle perfectly without a trace of further smoke of any colour. Could that be the head gasket leaking slightly?

 

And moving on from this, I haven't re-torqued the head since I rebuilt the engine say 1500 miles ago, (I forgot). I can't remember what value I torqued it up to in the first place, but does anyone have a recommendation as to what value it should be re-torqued to, is it just the regular 100 - 105 ibs-ft or should I use a reduced value for an aluminium head?

 

Many thks.

 

Rgds Ian

[Fireman049]

Hi Ian ~

 

Whenever I torque down a cylinder head of whatever material I've always done it in three or

four stages building up to the ultimate setting of 100 ~ 105 lbs ~ ft. This allows the head studs

to take the strain evenly.

 

Tom.

[Motorsport Mickey]

Tom is correct with a steel head at 105lbs ft done in easy stages for the first torqueing but for a retorque (and that needs doing urgently) UNDO all the nuts 1 flat first before retorquing back up to 105. (that's for a standard steel head).

 

Moss are retailing these alloy heads so I should have a word with them for advice regarding the torqueing figures, they're normally pretty helpful.

 

Mick Richards

[71 V12]

Hi Ian,

 

More likely condensation from the last time you ran the engine drawn into the exhaust as the engine cools.

 

Check for water in oil/ oil in water.

 

Cheers,

 

Kevin