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princess calipers


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Andy,

You only bleed one, the one on top, but you need a bridging  pipe between the second flexible pipe port and one of the lower bleed nipples.  Kits used to be available to do this, usually with new bolts and o-rings so that you could split and clean the caliper.  The pic below maay help

 

Oh-oh!  Do TR7s have dual brake systems, like the original Princess???   If so, ignore the above!!

 

John

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No they're not true dual circuit like the Prinny or Metro Turbo.

You can either bridge the pipes or use the Y piece that feeds 2 pipes from one flexi which is what mine do. TR7s are a pig to bleed properly anyway!

 

Jim

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I,ve fitted them with the y splitter and two pipes from that to the 2 inlets not with a bridge pipe as john's photo's show and i'm still struggling with the bleeding i've got about 2.5 to 3 inches of pedal travel before they bite i've took it round the block and they stop a treat it's just like having 2 clutch pedals with all that travel even when i pump the brakes the pedal travel doesn't change

any ideas cos i seem to be goingt round in ever decreasing circles

Andy

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Firstly have you got them the right way round? The bleed nipple should be near the top of each caliper. Also leave it a few days to stand that improed mine and on a rebleed got more air out.Second you'll need a pressure bleeder eg. gunsons easibleed or similar.

Have you disturbed the backs because they're normally where the air sits. Try clamping each hose off in turn and see if the peddle improves. Finally do what I did and give it to a decent garage as their pressure bleeder was much better!

 

Jim

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Ohhh would like to get some to... but it's not possible in switzerland..

 

Can you give me (bevor you fit it) the Distance beween the Mounting hole in " or cm...

 

I looking to fit MGF oder Montego ... do they fit ?? the Disc have the same PCD but they are only 37 mm height against the TR7 57mm ...

Thanks for your help

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An early SD1 master cylinder bolts almost straight on the Tr7 servo & reduces the pedal stroke distance (assuming the brakes are fully bled of course!) The only tweak is a 3mm spacer is required to account for the different push rod length. Note that pedal force goes up slightly in proportion to the increased bore area.

 

Andy

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Thanks to everyone for advice and comments

I've finally got it sorted and the new brakes seem a big improvement on the original set up it appears to have been the master cylinder seals I changed them and the bleeding was nice and easy

thanks again

andy

next job uprate the suspension and get round to sorting my 16v engine

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