davearkley Posted October 4, 2015 Report Share Posted October 4, 2015 Got a small problem with my 1982 TR7 fuel gauge. I have recently bought this 1982 DHC and discovered that the fuel gauge reads full maybe just a smidge off full deflection with only 5lts in the tank. I found a new sender unit in the boot so this has been fitted but the gauge still reads full with an empty tank. When the sender T connection from the gauge is disconnected the gauge swings to empty so the gauge is getting full travel on the pointer. I'm getting 12 volts on both the T and the W terminals so I'm thinking the stabiliser or the low fuel delay as the low fuel light is not working. any ideas out there before I strip the dashboard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
barkerwilliams Posted October 4, 2015 Report Share Posted October 4, 2015 Fuel gauge should be working on 10 volts via the voltage regulator. Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dursleyman Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 Fuel gauge should be working on 10 volts via the voltage regulator. Alan Don't think the TR7 has a voltage regulator, but it sounds like you need to check the wiring and connections are all good. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
davearkley Posted October 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 electrics are definately odd. I started with the fuse box and found some bad connections there - cleaned it all up. I noticed that the ignition light was not going out - at first it was dimming a little but now it stays on. The battery is showing 12.5 volts but not going up when the engine speed is increased - its looking like the alternator. I had a bit check and test around and at one stage the battery voltage went up to 13.5v so I thought the alternator must be ok but then it went back to 12.4v. the connections from alternator to battery look good but I think I will pull them apart and clean them. Because I have this problem with the fuel gauge, its clouding the issue. I'm getting 11.6v at the sender so that looks like the voltage regulator - or is it the low fuel light regulator as the light is not working.- will this affect the gauge. Where are these parts located. A haynes manual has just arrived at home so that may help. Anyone got a schematic diagram? A new alternator is on its way - only £50 so that will take away one potential faulty component. Rimmer brothers have a voltage regulator at only £13 so I'm ordering one of those as well. Oh - I need a new hood while I'm on - small split in this one and it looks like its shrunk as the poppers are well stretched and the front ones have torn the PVC - so lets have it looking nice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
davearkley Posted October 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2015 fuel gauge problem update. I have spoken with a guy at TR7 specialist and he tells me that there isnt a voltage stabiliser and there is only a low fuel light delay unit. He thinks the problem will be the gauge and as this is only £7.50 - I have ordered this and the delay unit so lets see what happens when these get fitted. I will be pulling out the dashboard this weekend and first thing to check is the low fuel bulb. I cant seem to get a proper answer on this problem and I dont have a decent diagram. Is there a schematic or a proper workshop electrical manual with test voltages available. The new alternator arrived - great value at £50 - fitted and working fine. - found a bit of resistance between the battery and the body and found that when the car was painted the people didnt clean the paint from under the earth connection - this is now sorted so should help. The ignition light goes out as soon as the car fires up. Fuel gauge is still faulty so this hasnt sorted that problem. I will get there in the end. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
davearkley Posted October 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 here we go with an update........for anyone interested. I spoke with a parts supplier S&S preparations yesterday - great guys very helpful. They had a fuel gauge and a low fuel light delay unit available - cost £20 inc postage. Parts arrived today - what great service - thanks guys. So - I set to and fitted both parts - a strip down of the dash wasnt the easiest job Ive done I discovered a blown low fuel bulb - replaced this and hey presto it now works. The fuel gauge looks promising but I need to put some fuel in to test it properly - looking good though. I have now replaced almost every bulb on the dash. After putting the dash back (sort of) I thought I would test everything and found that the main beam indicator didnt work and one of the dip beam headlights is off. The flasher is not working but wasnt ever working so it points to the switch - I will check all this out tomorrow. bye for now Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR8IAN Posted October 23, 2015 Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 Dave, While your in the mood for wires and cleaning it is worth the headlight earths and the red plugs. All great fun. Cheers Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
derek H Posted November 15, 2015 Report Share Posted November 15, 2015 The same thing has just occurred in my 7 I haven't used it for months then took it out, my fuel gauge reads full, 20 miles later it ran out still full on gauge I'll check my bulb, it was just the bulb? Gauge not necessary then? Derek Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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