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Finally finished the car today . was off the MOT station in next town & the b^%$£" cam shaft broke  :( . It sheered where the sprocket is bolted on . It was all running free and going well then that . Dont know why . Am really pi££%^ off . Anyone got a match ?   :(  :(
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down to me Im afraid . I hag trouble with the drive dog which goes between th dizzy & oil pump , am  wondering if it did not connect fully with the oil pump . does any one have the measurements of the required length of this dog ?
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. It was all running free and going well then that .

Before the oilpump and dizzy driving gear was fitted? Camshaft gear and oilpump driving gear are square to each other  and this is not ideal when the driven gear is highly loaded when something is going wrong like gripping oil pump, or when the oil pump/dizzy gear has no clearance. I believe this clearance is determined by shims under the distributor pedestal(it is in the TR 4 cylinder engine). Take consolation : I 've got 2 ruined camshafts in one month on my TR3A : the gear on the camshaft (which drives the oil pump and dizzy) had razor sharp teeth, and some broken teeth after 3 races, a new camshaft had already some damaged teeth after only one race.

After much searching and thinking, I suppose the camshaft is so heavy loaded (7000 rpm, 14.5mm valve lift,u/r valve spings) that the camshaft is vibrating/bending/fluttering causing this damage on its gear and the bronze driven gear.

Other suggestions always welcome. Did other people experience damage of this gear?

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Scotty

If you know a metallurgist, or even a metallurgy student they should be able to tell you quite easily by looking at the shear why the shaft broke, ie was it overloaded or was there a flaw in the metal. And don't let it get you down, most resto jobs hit a few snags at the last minute.

Ron

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