rhino_mac Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 I recently picked up my car (1959 TR3a) from a garage recently after a number of jobs, one of which was to sort out the terribly lumpy running. Idle was about 1600-1800rpm hunting around and seemed a bit asthmatic. They found a leak in the vacuum advance (replaced the olive) and a few other little bits (replaced a missing screw in the idle on one of the carbs) but the main issue they said was that the timing was "miles out". So I got the car back and it had two "problems". The first was it knocked under load - very loudly! A quick stripdown revealed main bearings that were down to brass. The garage have told me the knocking was probably hidden by the previous owner (I bought it at auction) by retarding the ignition back as far as possible while still keeping it running. Once the ignition was in the right place, the bearings knocked when under the increased load (about 2500 rpm+ with throttle). They didn't knock at idle, but did knock loudly when the engine was warm and you restarted it. Anyway, now the bottom end has been fixed, the knocking has stopped so pleased with this. The other "issue" was the engine note. It sounds a bit like a Suburu.......you know, that flat four sound where the firing order is a bit off beat? Mine sounds like this. It sounded like this when I picked it up before the bottom end rebuild (when it wasn't being drowned out by the knocking) and it still sounds like it now (just picked it up and driven it home). I was wondering if the garage have timed the car incorrectly. Apart from the weird engine note and a bit of wobble at idle, it seems to be running lovely. It starts easier (when it hasn't been left a week), idles smoothly, seems to pull strongly enough etc etc. It's just this strange engine note. Can anyone confirm what the standard engine timing should be so I can ask them to check it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 8 degrees BTDC to start with though every engine is different so road testing after is essential. Cam timing may be out as well. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rhino_mac Posted October 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 Thanks Stuart. Superstar. Once I get the car reliable and sorted I'll drop you a PM as I want a raft of work done on panel gaps etc. Alec P said you were the man to talk to but I need to recover from the bills I've had recently before I start any more major projects. Will drop you a PM about it to see if you can help! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 Given the condition of the main bearing, is the distributor in good fettle? If the shaft has significant play or the weights are loose it could account for the 'wobble at idle' and odd firing. Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 4, 2014 Report Share Posted October 4, 2014 Given the condition of the main bearing, is the distributor in good fettle? If the shaft has significant play or the weights are loose it could account for the 'wobble at idle' and odd firing. Rob Correct, Lucas distributors did have a habit of wearing like that. Get hold of the top of the shaft where the rotor arm sits and see if there is any side to side wobble, if there is then that will upset everything spark/timing related. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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