Lebro Posted June 25, 2014 Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 I have an Accuspark in my TR3 distributer (& a spare in the glove box) Very happy with it, but of course it does used the distributers own advance mechanism, so if that is bu***red this may not solve your problem. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Axworthy Posted July 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2014 Hi everyone, thanks for your comments. Sorry for the delay in reporting back but nothing is ever straight forward. Car back from EDM running well and there's no doubt that the performance at higher revs is vastly better. I couldn't understand why the car seem to be labouring all the way home but discovered that the rear brakes were binding! Why this suddenly happened after the rolling road is a mystery but the tuners thrash the living daylights out of the car so something must have shifted. I backed off the adjusters and all is well. The original fuel pump is keeping up with the webers against the odds. The readings from the RR give a maximum output of approx 104bhp. That sounds disappointing but suggests that the head and valves are next. I don't know if the reading was affected by the binding brakes but the loss between engine and drive was 33% so it suggests so. The stainless steel manifold produces more heat so the paint under the bonnet has bubbled. I have acquired foil from Moss to protect the paint. There are a few more snags to sort out before a proper road test and report. Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted July 11, 2014 Report Share Posted July 11, 2014 (edited) The stainless steel manifold produces more heat so the paint under the bonnet has bubbled. I have acquired foil from Moss to protect the paint. You might certainly add a protective foil but I doubt that the manifold is the lone cause for bubbling paint. I would 1/ check paint quality 2/ check engine overheating sources esp timing and cooling system 3/ get a manifold wrap. Edited July 11, 2014 by Geko Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Harvey Posted July 12, 2014 Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 Paul The original fuel pump is absolutely fine with Webers but you do need a pressure regulator (there is a filter/regulator which gives the complete solution) You also need filters over the ram pipes unless you don't care about wear on the engine. K&N filter boxes (the best) are available from Moss to fit over various ram pipes but the ones for 60mm pipes KN56-9265 will need the inner wing bashed to make enough clearance. I note you say that performance over 3000 rpm is now much better but Webers always perform well when the main circuit is open - getting them smooth at tickover and especially partial throttle is the challenge, especially when 'tootling' along in traffic. Idle jet and progression circuit are the hardest components to sort. If you are going to pull the head you might as well measure the liners to see what is fitted and really you need to know the cam as well. TR engines will perform really well when ALL the components come together but a piecemeal approach can be disappointing. If you have around 100hp I doubt that the Webers and new manifold are doing anything at all that SU's couldn't do better, sadly. The exhaust can be wrapped at modest cost or ceramic coated if you like spending money. Clearly you are enjoying the journey which is great, just sounds like you need a map to the destination..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Axworthy Posted July 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2014 Hi Paul, many thanks for your helpful advice. Excuse my ignorance but what exactly does the fuel regulator do? Also, assuming it controls the flow of fuel is there a correct setting for twin 45's? Thanks again Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Harvey Posted July 15, 2014 Report Share Posted July 15, 2014 Paul Webers need low pressure and constant volume. Electric fuel pumps typically operate at too high a pressure. I set my pressure regulator to 3.5psi which the standard mechanical pump is well capable of delivering. You can see the Filter King pressure/regulator bolted to the RH inner wing in the very poor pic below. (Nb I have subsequently replaced the wire mesh filters with K&N filters) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted July 16, 2014 Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 Paul Webers need low pressure and constant volume. Electric fuel pumps typically operate at too high a pressure. I set my pressure regulator to 3.5psi which the standard mechanical pump is well capable of delivering. You can see the Filter King pressure/regulator bolted to the RH inner wing in the very poor pic below. (Nb I have subsequently replaced the wire mesh filters with K&N filters) Paul, Did you have to readjust the mixture when you changed the mesh filters for K & N? Any difference in running? Cheers, Monty. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Harvey Posted July 16, 2014 Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 Monty There was a slight increase in HP, only measurable on the rolling road. I fitted the filters on the advice of Pete Burgess, who said they would improve the airflow and provide better filtering. I simultaneously fitted a 4" fresh air vent tube to feed cold air over the carbs. As so many variables are tuned on the rolling road I cannot recall what we did to achieve the final result. Certainly, I think you could just change filters and the carbs would run fine until you went for a full tune. Like I said, it is the end result that matters, and everything makes a difference, big or small. Whether the improvement is worth the cost is a decision only you can make Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted July 16, 2014 Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 Monty There was a slight increase in HP, only measurable on the rolling road. I fitted the filters on the advice of Pete Burgess, who said they would improve the airflow and provide better filtering. I simultaneously fitted a 4" fresh air vent tube to feed cold air over the carbs. As so many variables are tuned on the rolling road I cannot recall what we did to achieve the final result. Certainly, I think you could just change filters and the carbs would run fine until you went for a full tune. Like I said, it is the end result that matters, and everything makes a difference, big or small. Whether the improvement is worth the cost is a decision only you can make Yes, totally agree with all your points. I have a Racetorations fresh air tube already fitted to feed air over the Webers along with small K & N type filters & will see how things work out next week when the car goes on Stanton Motorsports R.R ! I feel I have a little tuning to do @ the lower end of things as it appears to be running a little rich & sluggish but after around 2000-2500 rpm it starts to happen. Previous owner has been running static timing @ a standard 4 BTDC which could need adjusting, as a wilder cam was fitted along with the Webers. Cheers, Monty. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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