Early TR2 Queries

[PeteT]

Hi all, just a couple of queries that cropped up recently whilst preparing TS2016 for it's newly repainted body panels: 1Rear wings. When I restored the rear wings way back in 1997 I noticed the ends by the rear light plinth were raised up slightly, about half an inch from the normal line of the rest of the wing. At the time I thought this was due to a rear end shunt and was going to try and straighten it out but in then end I left it as it was. My question is, is this right or is it damaged? Furthermore when did it change? 2 Carburettor jet height. I remember reading on the TR4 forum that setting the jet height to 39 thou below the bridge would ensure correct mixture. Is this true for the smaller carbs fitted to my car? All information and advice gratefully received. Regards Pete

[TR 2100]

Hi Pete,

 

The line of the rear wing does change its line, upwards, towards the rear light.

The rear wing had a different part number after TS 1307 but the change was

to accomodate the different rear light.

I think the line of the earlier wing was the same but cannot state categorically.

 

Yonks ago, when the post-1307 wing was NLS by the factory, members

twigged that you could still get the earlier rear wing, ex-stock. It fitted just

the same, with a minor mod to the rear light plate.

And - for about 16 quid!

 

AlanR

Edited February 1, 2014 by TR 2100

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

1. Yes the up-sweep is correct.

 

2. First thing to be sure of is the height the needles are set in the pistons. - ie The needle shoulder should be flush to the piston bottom face - then at least they are probably equal to start off with. Adjust 0.039" or 2 1/2 turns down from the bridge or whatever on each carb. These are all initial settings to get the car running. Starting a car for the first time can be a horror show in its self plus the cam run in procedure so widely recommended for new engines.

 

Initial distributor timing for the spark. Set somewhere between 4 to 8 degrees before TDC. (factory said 4 degrees using 1950's petrol)

When it is running I set mine using an adjustable strobe and the vacuum disconnected. Initially max advance wants to be probably no more than 28 degrees dynamic, which with a TR distributor equates to max 8 degrees static. TR distributors give max centrifugal advance by 2500 rpm engine speed. Road testing and listening will be your best guide after.

 

Notes on carb tuning:-

Be sure the choke operates correctly and releases fully allowing both jets to return up into their carbs.

Be sure there is oil in both the dashpot dampers.

Be sure the pistons in the carbs drop with a satisfying 'donk' and are free to move - ie the jet is centred to the needle and the piston is not binding in the dash pot.

 

Once it is going and warmed up.

Set and balance the tickover on both carbs individually with the throttle interconnect rod disconnnected. (about 800-900 rpm initially)

Set the mixture using whichever method you prefer - I use the dash pot piston lift pin and listen for engine speed change technique.

Work on one carb at a time, You will have to do the process at least three times to be sure.

Others use colour tune on Nos 1 and 4.

When happy with the mixture, reset the tick over and balance both carbs to your favoured tick over speed and reconnect the throttle interconnect rod.

 

 

Go for a drive - do it all again cause it is flat or ticking over too fast.

 

 

I am sure there will be a local member willing to help in the set up once it is running.

 

There is LOTS written on how to tune multiple SU carbs. More research is always useful.

 

Cheers

Peter W