A Posts

[JPD]

I'm part way through a 2 piece rebuild of my 4A. The front is loosely mounted on the chassis whilst I'm repairing the doors and doing repairs to the driver side bulkhead end panel and inner wing. The A post is very rotten at the top and bottom (both inner and outer) and at least half of the front face of the outer also needs replacing.

 

Given that the A post is pretty rotten, would it be better to repair it or replace it? Factors would be how good a fit the replacements are and how easy it will be to get the alignment right.

 

A follow on question is, is it better to get the existing A post aligned and the front body welded to the floors & sills (new ones fitted) before repairing/replacing the A post?

 

My gut feel is to replace it and to do it before finalising the front alignment, using the scuttle, end panel and sill as references - But I'm looking for some good advice from anyone who has already been there before I start removing the old one!

 

Thanks

Jeff

[stuart]

I suppose it largely depends on how good you are at welding/fabricating. If you are reasonably competent I would put the front back on and get the doors in place and lined up to the back end , then repair what you have bit by bit. However if you are confident that you could do it then get the front on and doors lined up to the back end and only then replace the complete unit.

Its much safer when replace a crucial section like an "A or B" post to have everything in place round it to give you as many reference points as possible.

Stuart.

[JPD]

So, given that thios is my first major restoration, it sounds like I should get the doors finished and aligned before doing much with the A posts. My concern was that if I get everything aligned around the A post, dont I risk undoing it all if subsequently I replace it?

[AlanT]

Get the back-end in place. Get the doors to fit. Make the glass fit to the screen-frame and backlight. Fit a hard-top if using this.

 

Then take out out the A-post and put a new one in. It wont matter much if the A-post is not a perfect copy as long as it holds the door in the same place.

 

I know this sounds like extra work but it will be quicker in the end.

 

If you remove the A-post and try to put a new one in without the door as a guide then even a small error will spoil the whole fit later.

You got to get it right fore/aft and left/right and the right angle. Tough with no door to guide you.

 

The main difficulty in fixing these bodies is getting the doors right.

Having the frredom to move the A-post a little will actually be helpful.

 

Bear in mind the factory had probelms putting these together and didn't do it to the door fit/gap standards that we are expecting now.

 

Don't ask how I know. I faced the same kind of probelms as you. Guessed wrongly and took a year to recover.

[TR 2100]

Not sure if A posts are available at the moment

but I think there are some on US eBay.

 

AlanR

[JPD]

thanks, the advice will be taken!!

 

I'll finish off the door frame repairs and re-skinning, then get the front, doors and back end aligned and then concentrate on the A & B posts with some bracing in place, then move on to the rest of the tub. I'll try to repair as much as I can as aside from the cost, new panels do seem to be in short supply at the moment.

 

Jeff

[Guest ntc]

I would use second hand doors before you begin

[Guest]

I would use second hand doors before you begin

... but before you start, carefully compare their dimensions with the doors you'll be using in the end.

 

Menno

[Guest ntc]

Menno

I meant those that have not been messed about with