2long Posted November 1, 2012 Report Share Posted November 1, 2012 (edited) interesting project Tr5 appeared in our local Craigslist on Oahu. factory overdrive, surrey, PI, disassembled, complete, steel panels with minimal rot, but at least one panel is from a donor Tr 250. offers above 18 k US. Project stalled when the assembly process led to poor panel fit. I got photos by email and will try to attach tomorrow. Dan Edit: here is the description given by the owner. PM me if more info desired. 1968 TR5 HISTORICAL OUTLINE SINCE MY OWNERSHIP I purchased the car in 1985 from a gentleman from Myrtle Beach, SC. He was in the U.S.A.F. stationed in England where he shipped several British cars back to his home via the air force base in Myrtle Beach, SC. That was back in the mid to late 70’s. At that time I used it as my primary vehicle for about a year until it became unreliable. First was a radiator issue which I had recored and then stalling problems which was later during disassemble found to be a corroded return fuel line. In 1987 I decided to start the restoration on the car. The car has 64,000 original miles before start of restoration. The car was taken to a local body shop where my brother became my representative while I moved to Hawaii. For the next couple of years any rotten panels were replaced and the engine was rebuilt. I shipped the car to Hawaii in a container in 1992 where it was put in my garage untouched until 2009. Getting married, raising two boys and building a house took precedence. In 2009 I decided to start a frame off restoration. I have bought a lot of new components and collected NOS items off of Ebay whenever I found things that were unavailable through the venders. My intent all these years was to finish this car and drive it. Priorities change and my wife has no interest in sitting on the left side of a car without a steering wheel. Espically because of the way I drive. That’s brings us to the present and why I have decided to sell the car. Here is a list of what I have done to the car so far after the car was completely disassembled. Frame: Both box trailing arms, the lower “T” shirt and left front body strut were replaced. Stiffener kit and boxing was done as per factory recommendations to the engine and differential areas. Frame was then sandblasted and primed with a green zinc primer with black top coat. In addition, rust destroyer paint was blown inside the frame with an air wand in all accessible areas. Engine: Rebuilt in 1990 including milling head with new valves and rockers. Block was bored out .020 with new pistons and rods. Any accessible casting defects in the block were ground smooth. New bearings with crank and camshaft remaining original. New main seals and freeze plugs. Oil pump was replaced with a new TR6 type pump. In 2010 with engine on stand I pulled oil pan and inspected for any sign of rust since the original rebuild. None found. Exhaust and intake manifolds were pulled off cleaned blasted and reinstalled with new gaskets. Exhaust manifold was painted. PI pump was removed, cleaned with seals and diaphragms replaced. Metering unit was not opened or tampered with. Starter, alternator and water pump were rebuilt. Changed out points of distributer to electronic. Test ran engine for several hours monitoring oil/fuel pressure and temperature. No issues were observed. Transmission/Clutch: Housing completely cleaned. I had no issues with transmission when I drove the car so I did not open transmission for inspection. I put in a new clutch, pressure plate, through out bearing and cross shaft before transmission was mated back to the engine. Front/Rear Brakes: All brake lines are new cuni. Hoses are new braided stainless steel. Front brake calipers were blasted and painted. New piston seals and stainless pistons were installed. Front rotors are new. Calipers were not split open. Rear brakes have new wheel cylinders with all metal parts being blasted and painted. Rear drums are aluminum finned. Car has new brake booster and master cylinder which is not yet installed. Reservoir is original and I have two others to go with it. Suspension: All parts were blasted and painted. Aluminum trailing arms were just blasted. New bushings are polyurethane. Front shocks are new Koni adjustable. Rear shocks are original and were flushed and filled with new oil after blasting and painting. Main body was clear coated. Springs are original and were blasted and painted and installed with new top and bottom bushings. Differential/Drive Shafts: Differential was open and inspected. No gear wear was found. The three seals were replaced and it was resealed with new gasket. It was blasted and painted before reinstalling in the frame with new bushings. Shaft spline and universals were inspected with no issues found. Shafts were blasted and painted before installation. After installation all universals were greased. Tires/Rims: Tires were bought new in 1985 and currently have little wear and no cracking. Rims are painted 60 spoke and I have two spares. Rims were blasted and painted in 1985 and are still in good condition with little spline wear. Knock off adapters were cleaned and splines/threads show little wear. Nuts have good threads but could use a refresh on the chrome. Exhaust: Bought new in 1985 and is twin stainless steel. Muffler is sill good and I blasted and painted before reinstalling. I still have the Midas lifetime warranty agreement. Interior: Black leather with white piping seats along with carpet and panels were bought new in 1985. I pulled all the interior including leather off the seat bodies not long after the car was shipped to Hawaii. Their condition was very good and all the items were wrapped in heavy plastic and put in storage. I have new door crash pads. The dash pad is original and has a tear at one of the vents. I do not have seatbelts for the car. Body Tub: Tub was turned upside down and all undercoating was removed. Any weld deficiencies were corrected mostly with spot welds using a mig welder. There is no rust or rot to the underside. Underside was primed with a rust preventive primer and top coated with black epoxy paint. Engine bay was completely stripped to bare metal. Any weld deficiencies were corrected with mig. Bay was primed and seams were resealed. Bay was then top coated with blue (not factory color) paint. Tub was then bolted back onto frame. Removable body panels: Bonnet, boot, doors, front and rear fenders are solid with no rot. They do have some surface rust and will need to be blasted. Aluminum surrey top is not original to the car but is in fine condition and has no dents. It will need a new headliner. Electrical: Car has completely new wiring harness and was never installed. Gauges, lights, radio are original and were in good working order when car was disassembled. They were stored in Tupperware. Lenses are all complete and none are cracked or broken. Chrome: I have a new front bumper and rear is in very good condition. Plus I still have the originals from the car. Overriders need to be polished. Other smaller chrome parts could use refreshing but are just fine for a driver. I have new fender beads and stainless steel trim. Front grill is good with no damage but needs to be polished and reblacked. Miscellaneous: I have new front sway bar kit and chrome badge bar that were never installed. I also have an aluminum fuel take. I still have the original steel tank and it was rolled/coated and exterior was blasted and repainted. Fuel pump is reconditioned. PRV is new old stock and both worked fine with correct pressure when engine was test run. Fuel lines are all new cuni. Master and slave clutch are new. I have original rag top frame and the new rag top that was bought in 1985. Wood dash is original and is intact but could use a refinish. Glass: Door windows, front windshield and rear surrey window are all good with no cracks or chips. Items that I feel still need to be purchased: Foam for both seats. Rubber door seals and fuzzy window seals. Window to frame seals and frame to body seals. I have several spare items for the car that will go with it. I also have a lot of books for the 5 including one for servicing the PI pump. Edited November 2, 2012 by 2long Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2long Posted November 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2012 I got word from the seller today that the car has not yet sold, but he has gotten offers at his 18k asking price. He has ordered a heritage certificate to document the original equipment (i.e. overdrive), and he is hoping for higher offers. I think he will wait for his certificate before he sells, so there may be a bit of time if anyone want to make him an offer. Dan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 7, 2012 Report Share Posted November 7, 2012 Cheap car if it wasnt for the shipping Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2long Posted November 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2012 Yes, Stuart - he mentioned it was about $5,000 from Hawaii to UK (!). Dan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 8, 2012 Report Share Posted November 8, 2012 Still only makes it around £14.3K but the import duty (+10%), landing fees and VAT (+20%) wont help as that would make it about £19.5K landed. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2long Posted November 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2016 Well, the car turned out a decent flip! http://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-Triumph-Other-TR5-PI-Roadster/222300296413?_trksid=p2046732.c100040.m2060&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140107095009%26meid%3D578404845dc14066b2082708e213d615%26pid%3D100040%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D131995360544 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted November 7, 2016 Report Share Posted November 7, 2016 Looks like there's alot to sort, fuel and brake lines look dubious. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 8, 2016 Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 Reserve not met either! Fuel and brake lines are a joke and the fuel line running over the trailing arm is very dangerous! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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