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Help! New owner PI problems!


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Hi, I have recently bought my first TR.  (1974 UK car). Things got off to a rocky start when my hub departed company from my trailing arm on my first proper outing!  I got the car back on Friday from the body shop (ouch!) and drove from Windsor to Christchurch, this is what happened.....

80+ miles on motorway - no problem.  20 miles on a+b roads, started to 'kangeroo' (power completely cutting in and out), in 2nd gear and got progressively worse in any gear over 1000rpm.  Next day, checked for anything visibly wrong and found a wire to the Bosch fuel pump literally hanging on by a thread of corrosion, (thought a ha!), fixed this and drove for 10 trouble free miles.  Drove home last night - no problem on the 20 miles to the motorway, no problem on motorway - cruised at 70 - 80 all the way.  Came off motorway and straight away - 'kangeroo' effect!  Stll had just under half a tank of fuel.  Got home, (just) and the fuel pump, (which is very noisy at the best of times), seems erratic - i.e. the pitch and tone goes up and down.  Anyway, 1 hour later, I was able to drive the car around the block with no problem!  Therefore, the problem seems to be heat and fuel related to me.  The pump is 10 years old and is of the older design, (still shown in the Rimmer catalogue). Does the description sound like a fuel pump on it's way out to anyone out there with more experience of these cars?  I am loath to buy a new fuel pump and then find the problem is more likely to be an HT lead!  Any advice gratefully received - I don't want to have to go back to Spitfires now! :o

 

Michael

CR5708

Mimosa TR6

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It could be a multitude of things but before spending loads check the easy things - what sort of fuel filter do you have? If its one of the small glass types situated before the pump ,check its not blocked with sediment from a now 30 year old tank . These filters can be removed , opened & cleaned . Re your noisy pump it may just be a question of position - when its running try moving / holding it or the pipes in various ways to see if its just a vibration noise and if so adjust . I think these pumps are quite longlived and reliable . If you feel its ignition change all the bits - HT , rotor , cap , points & condensor - they are not too expensive from your local motor factors .
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Thanks for that.  The filter is a bog standard paper and plasitc sort.  The pump is located in the wheel arch.  I have noticed that the rubber hoses look ancient, maybe they have collapesed internally?  I think I will change the hoses and the filter as the least cost option to start with!  Only problem is, I have to drive the car for an hour or so before I get the problem!  It's like Russian Roulette - whether I'll make it home or not!

 

Thanks again,

Michael.

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50p says it's the PRV misbehaving - I had exactly the same problem years ago the PRV had stuck & the poor old Bosch was struggling at a pressure of 150 psi. (wasn't an issue with the old Lucas as that couldn't make 100 psi so the prv never had to open!)

Took prv apart, cleaned it up and reset the pressure and all was sweet!

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Thanks for all the advice!  I'm going to replace the old fuel lines and filter and clean the tank out in the first instance - starting with the cheapest options first!  I hope it's not the PRV as a reconditioned one was fitted by the previous owner not long ago.  The pump does sound like it's straining, but let's hope its just rubbish from the tank stopping the flow!  I will post an update when I clean the tank out.  Thanks again.
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Thanks - (i'll show my ignorance here!) I assume the relay protects the pump in some way?  How would it need to be wired?  Does the live go in one side and out the other?  Where would I get a suitable relay - I have a couple of unused relays that come with air horns - would one of these do the job?
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I would speak to Martin Jay at Revington TR. They will be able to supply a properly specified kit for your needs.

 

The relay is basically a switch where the on/off cables are your existing wiring and therefore only low current is drawn. This enables you to run a larger cable to the component needing the feed. I ran this feed to my fuel pump from a secondary fusebox, again supplied by Revington TR. What you will end up with is a car that works and is safe and reliable from an electrical point of view.

 

Revington TR can be contacted on 01823 698437

 

I know this reads a bit like an advert but Revingtons, and the other specialists, invest a lot of time and effort in development work for our cars. Many will feel that the price attached to this is too high. However, I am firmly of the opinion that the cheapest solution to any problem is to solve the problem the first time around, rather than try a number of different, cheaper, solutions and end up spending more in the long run.

 

I would simply advise you to make use of their reserach and development work, pay the going rate and solve the problem.

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  • 1 month later...

Well it's taken a couple of months but hopefully my problem is now sorted!  The process of elimination went from cheap to expensive - and ended up with;

Good power supply, (thanks Jonlar), new fuel lines, from tank to metering unit, flushed out fuel tank, (actually it was quite clean), new PRV, (there was no adjustment left in the old one) and finally, new pump and ancilleries from Prestige!  I probably shouldn't be, but I am amazed at the transformation to the car!  I cannot hear the fuel pump above idle now, (and even that's only if your listening specifically for it!).  Before, I could hear the pump at motorway speeds - above the stereo, wind noise etc!  A pressure test showed the old pump was only putting out 85 psi!  The car seems to start easier and rev more freely, (maybe that's just 'cause I can hear the engine now).  I drove 30 miles to work this morning with no problems but really need to drive a 100 mile+ journey to see if my problem that started this post is solved! Quietly confident, but fingers crossed!

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