littlejim Posted December 19, 2011 Report Share Posted December 19, 2011 I've had my 'bought' Moss surrey top out in the sun on a rack to stretch, plus I've moved the windscreen angle back as far as I can. After a bit of limbering up I can get it to fit on. However I've found the width of the frame, 105cm, (plus the width of two press studs) is a bit wider than the tops of the door windows glasses, 104.6cm. Currently cranking the frame up with the rear nuts to clear the glass, but the result is not as pretty as I thought it should be. Wonder whether I should get a body building friend to modify the width of the surrey frame. Does anyone have the correct width measurement of the surrey frame? (The rear studs I will leave till the hottest day in summer which I hope will stretch the thing a bit.) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 19, 2011 Report Share Posted December 19, 2011 Hi LJ, the tops tend to be a good fit/snug/tight/very difficult (you choose) if they were not one of the previous it would be sloppy and look iffy. I haven't measured my cross bar in the middle but it will be much as you have mention. When the middle cross bar is slack it will/can touch the glass. The rear fasteners should be engaged with the adjuster nuts fully backed off. To help fit the rear bar attachment fasteners I insert a pair of 3" 1/4 UNF bolts (heads removed)into the bosses. This helps guide the boss through the rear frame hole. With all the studs/bolts in place raise the frame and do your nuts up. It should then have a nice curve to it and the cross bar missing the frame. The side edges of the roof cover should sit nicely over/about the top of the glass - the deep section on the inside of the glass with the external lip just over the glass. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted December 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2011 Roger, many thanks for that advice. I've been f#rting around with various combinations of what to do first and in what order, but hadn't discovered the secret. I might have to weld a bit more thread on to the rear threads to get the height, the nuts are close to the end of the thread if I get the cross bar some height above the window glasses. I can't get at the nuts with the top in place, so have to get the lengths right before the rear of the top goes into place. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 19, 2011 Report Share Posted December 19, 2011 (edited) I can't get at the nuts with the top in place, so have to get the lengths right before the rear of the top goes into place. Hi LJ, Something is amiss. The threaded end of the 'H' frame should be long enough to leave plenty on thread in the frame hole - Have you got the rake of the screen set OK. Is the rear surrey frame too far rearwards. Has the 'H' frame been tampered with (short legs etc). I'm concerned that you can't adjust your nuts!! The way I do it is, when sitting in the drivers seat I raise the frame with my left hand and using my right forefinger I can slide it above the nut and turn it. It is quite loose on the thread. Repeat this for the other side. If you can't get to your nuts, what is obstructing them. Roger Edited December 19, 2011 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted December 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2011 Despite Roger's long distance coaching I'm still having a bit of fun with the Surrey. I've found the wimp's way out is to not wind the windows quite up to the top. Currently it is on the car working OK. Hoping the Aussie summer sun will do a bit more stretching. At present I have to have a lie down before and after getting the rear snaps on. (Re the nuts - lower obstruction is the metal of the rear window - upper is drum tight vinyl/fabric.) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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