More diff issues

[AndrewP]

<sigh> Ive had the car back on the road now for ohhhhhh 5 whole days I think, and I think the diff has let go (again!!).

 

Driving home on the freeway, all good. Got near home and had to boot it to get out of the way of a Chelsea tractor merging into me then rear started making a sort of (apologies for the naff description) a wooom woomp woomp noise in time with road speed. Clutch in nor braking/handbrake made an difference to the noise

 

Got home, jacked car up, checked everything tight, all UJ's seem OK nothing out of the ordinary, but checking the propshaft I can now move the input flange on the diff and feel movement side to side AND back and forward on what I think is the front bearing. Difficult to say exactly how much movement but enough to feel one handed sort of under the car whilst lying on my side.

 

So....guess its diff out over the weekend, but any pointers to look for to determine if its stuffed and/or anything else to look for (given that new UJ's/brake components etc all round) and check?

BTW checked tyres just in case and no noticeable bulges or anything.

 

Cheers

Andrew

[Tony Millward]

Hi Andrew,

 

Sorry to hear the diff is shot again. It might pay you to take it to Dave and let him rebuild it considering the money already spent on the gearbox/overdrive.

 

Tony

[AndrewP]

Thanks Tony...it does seem to be one thing after another ..BTW this was a re-built 2nd hand diff (like yours is)...my original diff broke off a tooth of the pinion gear!. This will be my 3rd in nearly as many months!

 

Anyway...removed the diff today (much easier the 2nd time around) and just want to confirm with others.

 

Grabbing the diff pinion input flange, I can see that the input shaft has around 0.5 to 1mm of play back and forward AND there is noticeable play up and down (side to side). This to me isnt right, but just wanted to check with others more knowledgeable.

No issues with Dave (the local TR guru) as hes as good as gold and offered to replace it without any hassle (well...apart from me having to remove the diff again!)

 

Appreciate any feedback.

 

Cheers

 

Andrew

Edited October 22, 2011 by AndrewP

[stuart]

Sounds like nose bearing broken up.

Stuart.

[AndrewP]

Thanks for the reply Stuart, sounds stuffed then as theres no knowing what internal damage has been done as well until Its opened up.

Easier to get another good 2nd hand diff. Fingers crossed for #3!

 

Andrew

[stuart]

You may get away with it as it would have possibly pushed the pinion out of mesh. It will still need dismantling but you may at least be able to save the CW&P.

Stuart.

[Mk1PI]

I would get a S/H one rebuilt with new bearings - David has heaps of good 2500 ones but who knows what **** gets in them whilst they lay around for 10 + years - I have a set of the proper Timken bearings that I bought off Chris Witor for a rebuild that didn't happen recently - you can have them for what they cost me if you want http://www.chriswito...php?prod=CW2171-

 

I wouldn't recommend using anything else bearing wise but they aint cheap - I'm in Canada for another 10 days but I know where they are if you want them quickly. NO drama if you just want to go with another S/H but is it worth the hassle of stripping it all out - btw if you have won the lottery recently I have a rebuilt 3.45 diff with NOS CWP, new Timken bearings and a Quaife LSD - http://triumphwestoz.blogspot.com/2010/01/old-gloria-and-nos-cwp.html I was saving it for my PI estate but everythings for sale in the end

Edited October 22, 2011 by Mk1PI

[Tony Millward]

Hi Andy,

 

If Andrew doesn't want it I would be interested.

 

Cheers

 

Tony

[Mk1PI]

Tony - I'll catch up with you when I'm back in town - I was half joking - I'd have to add up what its worth - although I guess you can do that too through various sources - on a modified car I reckon fitting something Japanese like a R180 diff would make FAR more economic sense - main advantage of the Triumph diff is that it just bolts in - price of building a decent Triumph LSD - Quaife or Salisbury Plate Type is eye watering! Quaife is very nice on a road car - quiet and helps when pulling out of slippery junction etc - TR6's seem to have much better traction than Stags or Saloons in these situations too.

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Just a pointer.

 

If you are converting Innsbruck (T 2500 Mk2) diffs to fit TRs you need to remove the quill shaft spline drive from the input at the pinion, which means undoing the pinion nut which is probably a big nyloc. This, on a TR means the preload between the two pinion bearings is set by a collapsible spacer rather than shims and a solid spacer (diff pinions with split pinned castle nut were solid spacer type and the castle nut was tightened to a given torque figure)

 

So when the TR pinion drive flange is fitted there is little chance of getting the pinion bearing preload correct if the diff you are using has the collapsible spacer type pinion fitted. Just whacking the nut up till it feels OK is not on, there is not a torque setting for the nut, it is TIGHTENED ONLY to get a rotational torque figure for the pinion, which equates to the correct pinion bearing preload. (so many inch pounds) The nut must not be backed off if the rotational torque is exceeded, a replacement spacer is required and the whole tightening process done again more carefully!. (Just like IRS rear hubs) Backing the nut off will let the bearings run loose, leaving too tight will wreck the bearings quickly.

 

Best tip is fit a new collapsible spacer or a 0.010" shim on the top of the spacer (between spacer and small bearing) and start from scratch to get the preload correct. The shim I think is from an early type Stag diff pinion.

 

Replacement of the spacer can only be done after the small pinion bearing inner part has been removed from the pinion, which may well involve lifting out the crown wheel and carrier assembly. - If you are this far in reshim and repair the whole lot. At least you would know what you have got.

 

I am sure that there will be responses from those that have never bothered about bearing preload and their axles and hubs are fine - I wait to be advised.

 

Regards

 

Peter W

Edited October 23, 2011 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[rpurchon]

Just a pointer.

 

If you are converting Innsbruck (T 2500 Mk2) diffs to fit TRs you need to remove the quill shaft spline drive from the input at the pinion, which means undoing the pinion nut which is probably a big nyloc. This, on a TR means the preload between the two pinion bearings is set by a collapsible spacer rather than shims and a solid spacer (diff pinions with split pinned castle nut were solid spacer type and the castle nut was tightened to a given torque figure)

 

So when the TR pinion drive flange is fitted there is little chance of getting the pinion bearing preload correct if the diff you are using has the collapsible spacer type pinion fitted. Just whacking the nut up till it feels OK is not on, there is not a torque setting for the nut, it is TIGHTENED ONLY to get a rotational torque figure for the pinion, which equates to the correct pinion bearing preload. (so many inch pounds) The nut must not be backed off if the rotational torque is exceeded, a replacement spacer is required and the whole tightening process done again more carefully!. (Just like IRS rear hubs) Backing the nut off will let the bearings run loose, leaving too tight will wreck the bearings quickly.

 

Best tip is fit a new collapsible spacer or a 0.010" shim on the top of the spacer (between spacer and small bearing) and start from scratch to get the preload correct. The shim I think is from an early type Stag diff pinion.

 

Replacement of the spacer can only be done after the small pinion bearing inner part has been removed from the pinion, which may well involve lifting out the crown wheel and carrier assembly. - If you are this far in reshim and repair the whole lot. At least you would know what you have got.

 

I am sure that there will be responses from those that have never bothered about bearing preload and their axles and hubs are fine - I wait to be advised.

 

Regards

 

Peter W

 

i have reused the the collapesable spacer on my diff several times.first from fitting the saloon diff to my 6.

then fitting new oil seals to stop that bloody drip 3 times now and a speedi sleeve.

idealy you should pull the half shafts out.less resistance to turning

tightening the nut a bit.then try turn the shaft by hand.keep doing this untill there is a bit of resistance to turning the diff

if you go too tight it will be hard to turn.

when its right its similar, to having the front wheel bearings too tight.

you only need a normal 1/2" socket wrench .no 3 ft long breaker bars or scaffold poles.

richard

[Mk1PI]

Better to modifiy the pinion on the late 2500 diff and fitted the spacer and shims of the early model. That what I have done - more involved but longer lasting

[AndrewP]

Thanks for the replies guys..

The next step will be rebuilt diff...new bearings etc, IF this next one fails prematurely.

LSD would be nice, but Im just driving on the roads, so really hard to justify cost vs use. A must have for racers though (youd spend half your time, and tyres spinning one wheel around every bend otherwise).

No lottery win yet either...