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Tr6 Water Pump General Thoughts


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I've put in (3) repro pumps over the years - last one yesterday, when a makeshift stethoscope traced a slight noise thereto.

 

They last ~ 30,000 miles, and the last (2) didn't leak when replaced, they just made a little noise ( which I only detect because I'm too far gone <_< ). BTW, the bad one spun quite freely off the engine and made no noise either, so I am sceptical that their soundness can be checked that way :unsure:

 

I'd say they are probably good for several hundred miles from the onset of noise, so packing one for a journey of over 1000 miles might be a good idea if the age/condition of the mounted one is a mystery - we did for our 4000 mile journey, which is why I had one on hand yesterday :P .

 

Mine look just like Guy's, after I paint them ( they're bare out of the box ). County brand, the last one.

Edited by Tom Fremont
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Guy,

 

I can thoroughly recommend the aluminium water pump and housing from Racetorations - from experience. (I also agree with everyone's comments here about not fixing what is not broken, and about poor quality repros).

 

The better design of the impeller in Racetorations' pump definitely increases the flow of water/coolant through the engine, with the result that it has reduced the running temp of my TR6 significantly. I haven't measured it with a thermometer, so can only tell you that my temp gauge used to hover at dead centre between the two dots, and now sits a good 1/4 of the way to the left (the cooler side, so that's about a 1/8 reduction if things are linear, which they probably are not!).

 

You also have a big saving on weight, which may or may not be of benefit - I guess it depends on what else you do to lighten the engine.

 

The quality of the casing and pump is superb (as is their service). The price is steep, but I've learnt the hard way with parts for our cars that you get what you pay for. I have no commercial connection to Racetorations.

 

Paul

 

 

This pump from a Gainsborough located specialist has done three years work in my PI - it was always filled with distilled water and Castrol inhibitor (I have a 10year bespoke alloy radiator so cannot skimp on **** coolant)- it was removed due to the seals leaking and to my horror the impellor was mincemeat from corrosion. I now use a stanpart original rebuilt with new seals - the impellor seems to be made of an indestructible alloy.

 

I saw a alloy housing removed from a TR5 last week from same supplier - about 3 years old and the inlet and outlet ports were almost corroded to the point that the water pump would be bypassed. Marine standard anodising might solve these issues but as marketed these "high spec" alloy marvels leave a lot to be desired

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This pump from a Gainsborough located specialist has done three years work in my PI - it was always filled with distilled water and Castrol inhibitor (I have a 10year bespoke alloy radiator so cannot skimp on **** coolant)- it was removed due to the seals leaking and to my horror the impellor was mincemeat from corrosion. I now use a stanpart original rebuilt with new seals - the impellor seems to be made of an indestructible alloy.

 

I saw a alloy housing removed from a TR5 last week from same supplier - about 3 years old and the inlet and outlet ports were almost corroded to the point that the water pump would be bypassed. Marine standard anodising might solve these issues but as marketed these "high spec" alloy marvels leave a lot to be desired

 

 

 

Yup that pump looks non too clever.

 

I have stuck with my original and all is well.

 

However, i did look to replace the 3/8 fan belt from Rimmers, belt came down GBC11088, i fitted it and it makes a high pitched

noise when the motors running. This is due to the fact the belt is sitting quite low down in the v of the pulley.

 

So i got an american belt 1/2 inch QBB1125, they only have two options, so its one or the other, well that would never fit.

 

So fitted back my old belt which fits the pulley correctly in that it is flush on the top, no noise, but its an old belt

waiting for the day it goes. :rolleyes:

 

Thanks

 

Guy

 

Can some one please confirm a supplier and part number for a belt that would fit correctly

 

My existing has the following markings 396NV 168 097 below 168 is 169 then 170

Edited by Jersey Royal
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I now use a stanpart original rebuilt with new seals - the impellor seems to be made of an indestructible alloy.

 

 

 

I tried to do that years ago but couldn't get the bearings; they were " out of production " supposedly. Glad to hear they are available, but wonder where I could get them :unsure: . My original pump is in a box somewhere disassembled.

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Yup that pump looks non too clever.

 

I have stuck with my original and all is well.

 

However, i did look to replace the 3/8 fan belt from Rimmers, belt came down GBC11088, i fitted it and it makes a high pitched

noise when the motors running. This is due to the fact the belt is sitting quite low down in the v of the pulley.

 

So i got an american belt 1/2 inch QBB1125, they only have two options, so its one or the other, well that would never fit.

 

So fitted back my old belt which fits the pulley correctly in that it is flush on the top, no noise, but its an old belt

waiting for the day it goes. :rolleyes:

 

Thanks

 

Guy

 

Can some one please confirm a supplier and part number for a belt that would fit correctly

 

My existing has the following markings 396NV 168 097 below 168 is 169 then 170

 

 

Guy

I will check the right number tomorrow and let you know :)

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Hi Guy,

 

As you may have noticed at the IOW weekend last year my TR6 is fitted with a Racetorations waterpump by the previous owner. I found out because Neil took it off looking for the cause of the engine getting very hot, suspecting a broken rotor. This turned out not to be the case though.

I have untill now not been able to notice any advantages of this pump compared to the original that was on my other TR6.

But this maybe to the fact that my engine is still running very hot, not really overheating in the sense of boiling over, but quite close to the max on the gauge. Without a thermostat the needle stays nicely in the middle, but with a thermostat( I've tried several) it runs very hot. Even fitting a ventscrew into the thermostathousing to let trapped air out has hardly had any effect...

Without wanting to hyjack your post there maybe some ideas on the cause of this frustrating problem among the members of the forum...?

 

Many thanks,

 

Cheers,

 

Tim

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Hi Guy,

 

As you may have noticed at the IOW weekend last year my TR6 is fitted with a Racetorations waterpump by the previous owner. I found out because Neil took it off looking for the cause of the engine getting very hot, suspecting a broken rotor. This turned out not to be the case though.

I have untill now not been able to notice any advantages of this pump compared to the original that was on my other TR6.

But this maybe to the fact that my engine is still running very hot, not really overheating in the sense of boiling over, but quite close to the max on the gauge. Without a thermostat the needle stays nicely in the middle, but with a thermostat( I've tried several) it runs very hot. Even fitting a ventscrew into the thermostathousing to let trapped air out has hardly had any effect...

Without wanting to hyjack your post there maybe some ideas on the cause of this frustrating problem among the members of the forum...?

 

Many thanks,

 

Cheers,

 

Tim

 

Hi Tim,

 

Yeah i remember, have you tried changing the sender unit in the housing for a new one?

We had a Good Laugh on IOW this year , shame you could not make it.

 

 

Hope to see you and Jessica at Harrogate

 

Cheers

Guy

 

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I tried to do that years ago but couldn't get the bearings; they were " out of production " supposedly. Glad to hear they are available, but wonder where I could get them :unsure: . My original pump is in a box somewhere disassembled.

 

 

Not sure if they are availible - it was done by an old boy at my Triumph Garage who used to sell TR5's in Perth WA when they were new. He has lots of stuff squirreled away - however he may have modified something newer and used that - thats how he rebuild Stag pumps - I'll see if he can enlighten me.

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Guy

6224 MC

AVX10 x 1100LA

 

 

 

Thanks Neil

 

After a search on the net that seems to be made by a company called GATES, i have sourced one from a

German outfit, see what comes down . Seems it also fits a few cars including a Saab and Dolomite 1500 Hl.

 

Am i the only one who has an issue with the offering from usual suppliers :unsure: seems like it,

Maybe i would not have noticed the fact the new belt was low down in the V pulley , had it not be for the wizzy noise,

 

And Stuarts keen eye, :rolleyes:

 

All your fault Stuart :D

 

Cheers

 

Guy

 

Cheers

Guy

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Thanks Neil

 

After a search on the net that seems to be made by a company called GATES, i have sourced one from a

German outfit, see what comes down . Seems it also fits a few cars including a Saab and Dolomite 1500 Hl.

 

Am i the only one who has an issue with the offering from usual suppliers :unsure: seems like it,

Maybe i would not have noticed the fact the new belt was low down in the V pulley , had it not be for the wizzy noise,

 

And Stuarts keen eye, :rolleyes:

 

All your fault Stuart :D

 

Cheers

 

Guy

 

Cheers

Guy

 

Its the usual classical problem with suppliers trying a one size fits all part again and the reason I noticed yours so easily is I had fitted two only a couple of weeks before coming to IOW and they were both out of my NOS stock in Unipart boxes. Baldricks one just happened to be marked up as for TR6 US version ;) Correct ones sit quite a lot further up the pulley and so will last for many thousands of miles before they will wear enough to bottom out.

Stuart.

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Hi Guy,

 

As you may have noticed at the IOW weekend last year my TR6 is fitted with a Racetorations waterpump by the previous owner. I found out because Neil took it off looking for the cause of the engine getting very hot, suspecting a broken rotor. This turned out not to be the case though.

I have untill now not been able to notice any advantages of this pump compared to the original that was on my other TR6.

But this maybe to the fact that my engine is still running very hot, not really overheating in the sense of boiling over, but quite close to the max on the gauge. Without a thermostat the needle stays nicely in the middle, but with a thermostat( I've tried several) it runs very hot. Even fitting a ventscrew into the thermostathousing to let trapped air out has hardly had any effect...

Without wanting to hyjack your post there maybe some ideas on the cause of this frustrating problem among the members of the forum...?

 

Many thanks,

 

Cheers,

 

Tim

 

Tim

 

I believe that much of the hot running is caused by unleaded fuel which nurns hotter. Since leaded was phased out I struggled for years with a hot engine and tried everything including flushing through, higher concentrations of Antifreeze etc. Then I had the cast iron manifold coated with Zircotec and since then the guage sits just above half way (prev 3/4. Even in traffic I don' need to use the electric fan.

 

No connection with Zircotec - just a happy customer.

 

All the best

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