Distributor removal

[Richard King]

I need to remove the distributor from my TR7 to fit an electronic ignition. I can just get a short 7/16" spanner on the rear bolt, but there seems to be no way to get it onto the front bolt. Has anyone a technique for getting these bolts out without taking the carbs off, or do I need a special spanner?

[Alec Pringle]

Hi Richard,

 

it's extremely difficult without the correct spanner !

 

Someone in your local group may well have one you could borrow ?

 

They are probably available from one or another of the TR specialists . . . .

 

If all else fails I could send you a snapshot and dimensions of mine, and you could perhaps bend a ring spanner to suit - because that's all it is, a bent ring spanner.

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

[Neil_W]

Manual shows the tool Leyland Used as the Service Tool & instructions.

You may have to increase to 150% zoom to read a bit clearer.

Hope this helps

 

 

[Neil_W]

Have a look on the web for a CD Manual from original Service Books - has lots of extra info

Edited June 20, 2010 by Neil_W

[Richard King]

Hi Richard,

 

it's extremely difficult without the correct spanner !

 

Someone in your local group may well have one you could borrow ?

 

They are probably available from one or another of the TR specialists . . . .

 

If all else fails I could send you a snapshot and dimensions of mine, and you could perhaps bend a ring spanner to suit - because that's all it is, a bent ring spanner.

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

 

[Richard King]

Hi Alec,

 

thanks for the info. If you could attach a photo and dimensions, I'd be grateful. Also I'll have a word with Rimmer Bros tomorrow.

 

Cheers

 

Richard

[Alec Pringle]

Hi Richard,

 

I'll scour the garage tomorrow evening, it'll be there somewhere !

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

[Chris59]

I use a 11mm (equivalent to 7/16e) shortened spanner : sorry, I don't know how you call this kind of tool in English, but it is a "flat" spanner, with a "eye" end and a "fork" at the other end.

I have removed the "fork" end, and no problem since 25 years of TR7 ownership.

Chris.

[Neil_W]

I use a 11mm (equivalent to 7/16e) shortened spanner : sorry, I don't know how you call this kind of tool in English, but it is a "flat" spanner, with a "eye" end and a "fork" at the other end.

I have removed the "fork" end, and no problem since 25 years of TR7 ownership.

Chris.

 

 

 

Chris - it is called a 11 mm Combination Spanner ( Ring type at one end & open at the other )& a good tip as the spanners are cheap the buy & weld up / bend to make the right tool.

[Chris59]

"Combination spanner", ok, thanks, I have learn something in English today

 

It is called "clé mixte", or more commonly "clé plate" in French : just in case someone need this kind of spanner on his way to Le Mans, or during his holidays in France

 

Btw, my tool isn't bend or weld, just shortened, but my wedges are all LHD : may be the acces is more difficult on a RHD TR7 ?

 

Chris.

[Alec Pringle]

Hi Richard,

 

if we're lucky this will have a snapshot ! The spanner is a 7/16" SnapOn S94678, as best I can read the worn markings.

 

I wouldn't recommend SnapOn by the way, overpriced and overrated - you can see how this expensive bit of kit has deteriorated over 25 years. If it was Britool or Facom it would still look half-sensible . . . . and I've never broken anything by Britool or Facom, which is more than I can say for SnapOn.

 

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

[Neil_W]

Hi Richard,

 

if we're lucky this will have a snapshot ! The spanner is a 7/16" SnapOn S94678, as best I can read the worn markings.

 

I wouldn't recommend SnapOn by the way, overpriced and overrated - you can see how this expensive bit of kit has deteriorated over 25 years. If it was Britool or Facom it would still look half-sensible . . . . and I've never broken anything by Britool or Facom, which is more than I can say for SnapOn.

 

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

 

 

Don't know if this helps to start to make a tool

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/11MM-FLEXIBLE-HEAD-RATCHET-SPANNER-COMBINATION-WRENCH-/380240611135?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item58881b473f

[Richard King]

Thanks Everyone for your help. I bought a cheap 7/16" combination spanner, chopped it in half and fitted the ring end into a piece of 15mm copper pipe. I then bent this into a C shape and the whole thing works like magic!

 

I have another problem, which I am sure someone has overcome. My water temp gauge stays offscale at all times, so I am assuming that the gauge is u/s and I need to remove it. It is a late model 7 with the push knob resets for the clock and trip mileometer. I can't get these knobs off. After 28 years they are obviously well and truly stuck. I can't get at the knobs without removing the cover from the panel, and I can't remove the panel until I've got the knobs off! Any thoughts on how to solve this dilemma?

 

Richard

[Neil_W]

Thanks Everyone for your help. I bought a cheap 7/16" combination spanner, chopped it in half and fitted the ring end into a piece of 15mm copper pipe. I then bent this into a C shape and the whole thing works like magic!

 

I have another problem, which I am sure someone has overcome. My water temp gauge stays offscale at all times, so I am assuming that the gauge is u/s and I need to remove it. It is a late model 7 with the push knob resets for the clock and trip mileometer. I can't get these knobs off. After 28 years they are obviously well and truly stuck. I can't get at the knobs without removing the cover from the panel, and I can't remove the panel until I've got the knobs off! Any thoughts on how to solve this dilemma?

 

Richard

 

 

Hi I would first change the coolant temp sensor on the thermostat block. It is only £6 odd, if that still doesn't cure then you are back to the gauge - you could use a small junor hacksaw blade to slice the push knob off then find a new one.