Richard King Posted June 19, 2010 Report Share Posted June 19, 2010 I need to remove the distributor from my TR7 to fit an electronic ignition. I can just get a short 7/16" spanner on the rear bolt, but there seems to be no way to get it onto the front bolt. Has anyone a technique for getting these bolts out without taking the carbs off, or do I need a special spanner? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted June 19, 2010 Report Share Posted June 19, 2010 Hi Richard, it's extremely difficult without the correct spanner ! Someone in your local group may well have one you could borrow ? They are probably available from one or another of the TR specialists . . . . If all else fails I could send you a snapshot and dimensions of mine, and you could perhaps bend a ring spanner to suit - because that's all it is, a bent ring spanner. Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Neil_W Posted June 20, 2010 Report Share Posted June 20, 2010 Manual shows the tool Leyland Used as the Service Tool & instructions. You may have to increase to 150% zoom to read a bit clearer. Hope this helps Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Neil_W Posted June 20, 2010 Report Share Posted June 20, 2010 (edited) Have a look on the web for a CD Manual from original Service Books - has lots of extra info Edited June 20, 2010 by Neil_W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard King Posted June 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2010 Hi Richard, it's extremely difficult without the correct spanner ! Someone in your local group may well have one you could borrow ? They are probably available from one or another of the TR specialists . . . . If all else fails I could send you a snapshot and dimensions of mine, and you could perhaps bend a ring spanner to suit - because that's all it is, a bent ring spanner. Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard King Posted June 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2010 Hi Alec, thanks for the info. If you could attach a photo and dimensions, I'd be grateful. Also I'll have a word with Rimmer Bros tomorrow. Cheers Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted June 20, 2010 Report Share Posted June 20, 2010 Hi Richard, I'll scour the garage tomorrow evening, it'll be there somewhere ! Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris59 Posted June 21, 2010 Report Share Posted June 21, 2010 I use a 11mm (equivalent to 7/16e) shortened spanner : sorry, I don't know how you call this kind of tool in English, but it is a "flat" spanner, with a "eye" end and a "fork" at the other end. I have removed the "fork" end, and no problem since 25 years of TR7 ownership. Chris. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Neil_W Posted June 21, 2010 Report Share Posted June 21, 2010 I use a 11mm (equivalent to 7/16e) shortened spanner : sorry, I don't know how you call this kind of tool in English, but it is a "flat" spanner, with a "eye" end and a "fork" at the other end. I have removed the "fork" end, and no problem since 25 years of TR7 ownership. Chris. Chris - it is called a 11 mm Combination Spanner ( Ring type at one end & open at the other )& a good tip as the spanners are cheap the buy & weld up / bend to make the right tool. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris59 Posted June 22, 2010 Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 "Combination spanner", ok, thanks, I have learn something in English today It is called "clé mixte", or more commonly "clé plate" in French : just in case someone need this kind of spanner on his way to Le Mans, or during his holidays in France Btw, my tool isn't bend or weld, just shortened, but my wedges are all LHD : may be the acces is more difficult on a RHD TR7 ? Chris. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted June 22, 2010 Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 Hi Richard, if we're lucky this will have a snapshot ! The spanner is a 7/16" SnapOn S94678, as best I can read the worn markings. I wouldn't recommend SnapOn by the way, overpriced and overrated - you can see how this expensive bit of kit has deteriorated over 25 years. If it was Britool or Facom it would still look half-sensible . . . . and I've never broken anything by Britool or Facom, which is more than I can say for SnapOn. Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Neil_W Posted June 22, 2010 Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 Hi Richard, if we're lucky this will have a snapshot ! The spanner is a 7/16" SnapOn S94678, as best I can read the worn markings. I wouldn't recommend SnapOn by the way, overpriced and overrated - you can see how this expensive bit of kit has deteriorated over 25 years. If it was Britool or Facom it would still look half-sensible . . . . and I've never broken anything by Britool or Facom, which is more than I can say for SnapOn. Cheers, Alec Don't know if this helps to start to make a tool http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/11MM-FLEXIBLE-HEAD-RATCHET-SPANNER-COMBINATION-WRENCH-/380240611135?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item58881b473f Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard King Posted June 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 Thanks Everyone for your help. I bought a cheap 7/16" combination spanner, chopped it in half and fitted the ring end into a piece of 15mm copper pipe. I then bent this into a C shape and the whole thing works like magic! I have another problem, which I am sure someone has overcome. My water temp gauge stays offscale at all times, so I am assuming that the gauge is u/s and I need to remove it. It is a late model 7 with the push knob resets for the clock and trip mileometer. I can't get these knobs off. After 28 years they are obviously well and truly stuck. I can't get at the knobs without removing the cover from the panel, and I can't remove the panel until I've got the knobs off! Any thoughts on how to solve this dilemma? Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Neil_W Posted June 28, 2010 Report Share Posted June 28, 2010 Thanks Everyone for your help. I bought a cheap 7/16" combination spanner, chopped it in half and fitted the ring end into a piece of 15mm copper pipe. I then bent this into a C shape and the whole thing works like magic! I have another problem, which I am sure someone has overcome. My water temp gauge stays offscale at all times, so I am assuming that the gauge is u/s and I need to remove it. It is a late model 7 with the push knob resets for the clock and trip mileometer. I can't get these knobs off. After 28 years they are obviously well and truly stuck. I can't get at the knobs without removing the cover from the panel, and I can't remove the panel until I've got the knobs off! Any thoughts on how to solve this dilemma? Richard Hi I would first change the coolant temp sensor on the thermostat block. It is only £6 odd, if that still doesn't cure then you are back to the gauge - you could use a small junor hacksaw blade to slice the push knob off then find a new one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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