Suspension rebuild

[Rodbr]

Hi there suspension experts.

1. As there is some dubiety about the material quality so who supplies the best quality replacements? I understand that early replacements were made from brass and the attrition rate was phenomenal.

2. When preparing the wheel bearing fibre seal how best to prepare for long life. Soak in heavy oil and coat with grease when fitting? Any other suggestions?

3. Is there a method that you can ream new outer wishbone arm bushes with going to a machine shop.

4. Finally recommendations for botom inner bushes.

Edited March 13, 2010 by Rodbr

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Hi there suspension experts.

1. As there is some dubiety about the material quality so who supplies the best quality replacements? I understand that early replacements were made from brass and the attrition rate was phenomenal.

2.

 

 

The TR2-3-4 stamping type trunnion that Moss currently sell are fine for use on worn upright V. posts. The material seems to last OK and the machining is good, if not exactly to drawing. Machining for the use of the later type grease seal is a good idea, over the orig flat top thing. The lack of split pin holes in the trunnion pin is not the end of the world - use self locking nuts.

 

The sand cast trunnions sold over the years are poor quality, wear out quickly and are a sloppy fit on a worn upright post.

To identify the Moss stamping type from the sand cast type is simple - The surface finish is rough and grotty on the sand cast items.

 

The following information I have given to Moss London R&D about their TR2-3-4 trunnions in the last 12 months.

 

If you are to fit them to new uprights be sure that they all fit together before you leave the shop! The main thread is manufactured tight to fit on the worn thread of old vertical posts.

 

After fitting the steel cross pin, the trunnion thread should be cleaned through again with a tap to ensure any thread distortion or high spots are removed. I bought a tap of the correct size to do this as both my trunnions had missed this operation at the manufacturer's. (It isn't the post that is the wrong size, both my NOS trunnions (Zero castor) fitted both the new Vertical posts purchased from Moss, but their new (3 degree castor) trunnions were too tight 2 turns on)

 

The steel end cap the grease nipple screws into needs the thread cleaning out to ensure a grease nipple can be fitted.

 

The steel cap is not always fitted securely in the brass trunnion. (I have soldered mine in to ensure a proper oil tight seal and their security - I use EP140 in the trunnion rather than grease)

 

This info was relevant to TR 2-3-4, 3 degree castor trunnions and neg camber V posts, bought 10 months ago from Moss in London.

 

Finally I must say the hassles of fitting pale into insignificance against not having these parts available to keep our cars on the road. Just imagine if you had needed to make your own trunnion !!!

 

Cheers

Peter W

[RandallD]

Peter-

 

Not to steal this thread too much, can you tell me what tap you used for the trunnions? I've been wanting a basic tap and die to clean up the trunnion area but don't have a decent means to measure the thread.

 

Regards,

Randy

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Peter-

 

Not to steal this thread too much, can you tell me what tap you used for the trunnions? I've been wanting a basic tap and die to clean up the trunnion area but don't have a decent means to measure the thread.

 

Regards,

Randy

 

 

Hi Randy

 

If you have used trunnions I would not expect to need to run a tap into them as they have been running with posts for some time and the thread will be fairly loose.

 

I put the thread size and the post dimensions in the Moss catalogue when I did that section years ago - here it is if you do not have a hard copy of the Moss UK TR2-3-4 parts catalogue.

 

The thread size on the bottom of the TR2-3-4 vertical post and in the trunnion is 13/16" NC 10 tpi .

 

All other threads on the car are UNF thread form, inch sizes. This is borne out by the fact you need inch sized AF spanners (wrenches) and sockets to do your repairs. Not the Whitworth sized tools, as used partly on MG cars of that era.

 

As far as I can recall there are no BSF or BSW threads on a TR2-3-4. Of course the Lucas electrical bits may have a smattering of BA threads just to tease you.

 

Enjoy that one....

 

 

Cheers

Peter W

PS Remember-The English drink warm beer because they have Lucas refrigerators.

 

PPs here is a good site - * Worldwide Lucas Electrics Lovers' Fan Page *

 

http://members.tripod.com/%7Etcotrel/lucas.html

Edited March 14, 2010 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[Alec Pringle]

As a follow-on to Peter's observations.

 

I mentioned recently to Pete Cox that I had 3 pairs of nos original trunnions of different vintages on the shelf . . . too good an opportunity for Moss to miss. As requested I promptly despatched them to Coxey, so that Moss could compare more untouched original items with current production. No big deal in itself, but it does demonstrate just how keen Moss R&D can be to grab an opportunity to perhaps slightly improve a product.

 

Next time you're about to fit some hunk of nos rocking horse dropping on to a car, it might be worth a quick phone call or email to Moss on the off chance that they may appreciate the opportunity to actually compare an original, photgraph it, measure it, 3-D scan it or whatever. And if it's that rare, should it perhaps be offered to the SDF to purchase for the growing pattern library ?

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

[tr3aproj]

Hi there suspension experts.

1. As there is some dubiety about the material quality so who supplies the best quality replacements? I understand that early replacements were made from brass and the attrition rate was phenomenal.

2. When preparing the wheel bearing fibre seal how best to prepare for long life. Soak in heavy oil and coat with grease when fitting? Any other suggestions?

3. Is there a method that you can ream new outer wishbone arm bushes with going to a machine shop.

4. Finally recommendations for botom inner bushes.

 

 

Revington TR has oilite outer wishbone arm bushes that don't need to be reamed. I put a set in this morning they fit perfectly and are less likely to bind than the standard bushing. I put the wishbone arms in the oven at 250 F, took them out and gently tapped the two oilite bushings in each arm using a socket. I peaned the edge over slightly on one and used a brake hone to correct.

Regards,

Robert

Edited March 21, 2010 by tr3aproj