Removing Front Springs

[ianc]

As someone said earlier, the fiddly bit on re-assembly is getting the spring pan onto the studs (or bolts), but, with a proper compressor (as you have engineered), you have got control of the situation and can take things slowly. Putting a screwdriver or rod down from the bolthole in each wishbone into the hole in the pan does help with alignment and provides leverage, too.

Ian Cornish

[Davidw]

And finally I got it all back together again! Having been frantically busy at work and then on home projects for the boss and then moving my daughter to her new house, I managed to sneak an entire day on Firday. I do have some handbrake problems (separate post) but having used the 25% uprated springs from Moss all round with new lever arm (standard) and Standard shocks on the front, in the short test drive I have had the car feels much better. Corners almost flat with no apparent ride harshness to pay for it.

 

Problems were;

 

1) Getting the nearside spring pan to line up on the wishbones (a whole day followed by a trip to Stoneleigh to replace the bent spring pan listed as NLA so a big thank to TR Trader.

 

2) Trying to get grease through the top ball joints having replaced the rubber boots.

 

But driving the old rubber bushes out of various bits using a vice, socket, wood block & hammer was surprisingly easy.

 

Finally, Stuart's strictures about checking the threads for wear are right on the money. My first bar wore out after 3 uses (2 springs off, 1 spring on). It was touch & go getting it back off once the nuts started to slip on the threads.

 

Hope this helps others.

[stuart]

And finally I got it all back together again! Having been frantically busy at work and then on home projects for the boss and then moving my daughter to her new house, I managed to sneak an entire day on Firday. I do have some handbrake problems (separate post) but having used the 25% uprated springs from Moss all round with new lever arm (standard) and Standard shocks on the front, in the short test drive I have had the car feels much better. Corners almost flat with no apparent ride harshness to pay for it.

 

Problems were;

 

1) Getting the nearside spring pan to line up on the wishbones (a whole day followed by a trip to Stoneleigh to replace the bent spring pan listed as NLA so a big thank to TR Trader.

 

2) Trying to get grease through the top ball joints having replaced the rubber boots.

 

But driving the old rubber bushes out of various bits using a vice, socket, wood block & hammer was surprisingly easy.

 

Finally, Stuart's strictures about checking the threads for wear are right on the money. My first bar wore out after 3 uses (2 springs off, 1 spring on). It was touch & go getting it back off once the nuts started to slip on the threads.

 

Hope this helps others.

 

It is difficult to get high tensile threaded bar but I have found that if you use the largest size bar that you can get through the hole in the top of the turret then the thread will be strong enough to last quite a few applications.

Stuart.