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rotor arm


Guest newtr6

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hi all

had probs with my six as in a previous post with car holding back whilst accelarating,,

well i aasumed it was fuel starvation,so i went through faults as per lucas manual you kindley put my way.

today had another go at it,

cleaned plugs,adjusted points ,same ???,,,,

 

Put pack on old rotor arm ,and it pulled like a train

does this seem to add up with anybody elses experience

thank in advance

arthur

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hi all

had probs with my six as in a previous post with car holding back whilst accelarating,,

well i aasumed it was fuel starvation,so i went through faults as per lucas manual you kindley put my way.

today had another go at it,

cleaned plugs,adjusted points ,same ???,,,,

 

Put pack on old rotor arm ,and it pulled like a train

does this seem to add up with anybody elses experience

thank in advance

arthur

 

Here you go Arthur all you need to know http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index....showtopic=16867

 

Neil

Edited by ntc
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hi all

had probs with my six as in a previous post with car holding back whilst accelarating,,

well i aasumed it was fuel starvation,so i went through faults as per lucas manual you kindley put my way.

today had another go at it,

cleaned plugs,adjusted points ,same ???,,,,

 

Put pack on old rotor arm ,and it pulled like a train

does this seem to add up with anybody elses experience

thank in advance

arthur

 

Lately several members of our club have been experiencing issues with loss of power and misfiring and these were attributed to the rotor arms failing. It seems that the rotor arm is breaking down through the rivet that holds the conductor in place. There are several suppliers of arms that are "rivetless" I have fitted these on both my TR6 and TR4A and am having no issues nor is anyone else that I know of.

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Sadly yes; this has been going on for some time (like a few years!) & I've been a victim myself; total failure out in the middle of Norfolk nowhere! You also seem to have become a victim of one of the **** rotor arms that are so prevalent from all but one or two sources at the moment & I believe the caps are just as bad. :angry:

I’m currently running a good OE rotor myself, I bought it new but God only knows how old it is but it works. Only buy from a supplier known to be aware of this problem & who is prepared to do something about it. Hopefully, what’s left of this repro **** that our main suppliers imported from China will have to be skipped; or will it just end up on E bay! :rolleyes:

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Arthur,

Get two from Distributor Doctor - there so cheap and the car won't run without one. Always carry a spare because you never know when you might remove the good rotor arm and then:

- stand on it

- drop it in the dark and be unable to find it

- drop it down an open drain

Be prepared!

Ian Cornish

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Arthur,

Get two from Distributor Doctor - there so cheap and the car won't run without one. Always carry a spare because you never know when you might remove the good rotor arm and then:

- stand on it

- drop it in the dark and be unable to find it

- drop it down an open drain

Be prepared!

Ian Cornish

 

I once failed to seat the dizzy cap properly, that mistake caused the rotor to hit one or more terminals and instantly destroyed the cap and the rotor and required dismantling the dizzy to fish all of the bits out. Now I take extra care and carry a spare cap and rotor..

 

Stan

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well i got a red rotor from distributor doctor,,what a difference,,will follow up with ,his points ,l/t lead and condenser,,

i have no connection with d/doctor but if you have running probs try a new rotor arm

thanks all

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