jamie hart Posted January 17, 2009 Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 I have been trying to fit my original vertical links on a '64 TR4 to some new trunnions I bought recently. The big problem is that they tighten up after about 4 complete turns and I do not want to force them any further. I have tried another new set of trunnions with the same result. It wouls appear the pitch length of the new trunnions are very slightly diffent to the originals so they jam up, has any one had a similar problem? Thanks, Jamie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rhodri Posted January 17, 2009 Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 I had the same problem- one too loose and one too tight, and of course they won't change side to side. I exchanged the loose one and worked the tight one, off the car, with lots of oil, and eventually it freed up. However, yours seem to be extremely tight, too tight. I got mine from Revingtons, and even though one was tight, it was not so tight as to think I would break it, even though I used a bar as it was too tight for my hand only. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 17, 2009 Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 A careful check of the thread on the vertical link may be called for as I have seen them with slightly compressed threads. A run up with a re threading tool on a lathe soon sorts it out. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard V Posted January 17, 2009 Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 I also had this same problem, and also after about 4 turns. I had replaced the axle which runs through the trunnion, Moss sells them seperatly and much cheeper than the full trunnion. I used a hydraulic press and spacers to push out the old one and fit the new axle. When I came to try the perviously good trunnion on the vertical link it was now seized after the 4th complete turn, more than hand tight. After alot of head scratching I guessed that the action of the press had slightly deformed the soft brass trunion. It was not visible, but by placing it in an alu jawed vice at 90deg to the plane of the axle I got it back to a nice fit. Just pinch it up, try it with some oil, pinch again etc, being carefull not to overstress it. Now that it is back on the car (fitted today!) there is no hard spot as before, but it is generaly stiff. I think the use of a superpro grease seal has caused this. It is possible to turn the link by hand, so i'm not too worried. It will be interesting to see how heavy the steering is and if it frees up with time. Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jamie hart Posted January 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2009 Many thanks for all the replies. Have sorted out the problem, it would appear that the thread depth was a little shallow, I found a spare vertical link and carefully used it as a tap with grinding paste. The link now fits the full length and is no longer stiff! Now have to make sure all the paste is cleaned out of the threads!!! Interestingly enough the RHS was significantly tighter than the left! Many thanks, Jamie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard V Posted January 24, 2009 Report Share Posted January 24, 2009 I have now stripped the LH side front suspension and I find the trunnion very loose by comparison the "hard to turn by hand" RH I talked about earlier. This set me thinking about the very worn outer lower fulcrum (which passes through the trunnion) that I had on both sides. I am beginning to wonder if a PO has fitted 0 caster angle trunnions rather than the correct 3 degree. A quick "MK1 eyeball" check and both trunnions appear to be 90 degree, but I guess 3 degree is not easy to see. They are both marked with the numbers BRIT. PAT. 645627 and PT No 5L02202. EW.DIE No 7. one is stamped with E4, the other with C4. Can anyone tell me what these trunnions are? Cheers, Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rhodri Posted January 24, 2009 Report Share Posted January 24, 2009 (edited) I dont know about the numbers, but 3 degrees is , in fact, quite easy to see, especially if you screw it onto the upright. Rod Edited January 24, 2009 by Rhodri Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RAHTR4 Posted January 25, 2009 Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 Richard, I believe what you have are 0 degree trunnions. The oiginal Stanpart 3 degree trunnions, as fitted to my late TR4, have the part the following numbers : N.S. D4 Brit Pat 645627 Pt No 5L02217.R Die No 1 EW O.S. L4 Brit Pat 645627 Pt No 5L02218.L Die No 1 EW Regards, Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard V Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Richard, I believe what you have are 0 degree trunnions. The oiginal Stanpart 3 degree trunnions, as fitted to my late TR4, have the part the following numbers : N.S. D4 Brit Pat 645627 Pt No 5L02217.R Die No 1 EW O.S. L4 Brit Pat 645627 Pt No 5L02218.L Die No 1 EW Regards, Richard New trunnions on their way from Moss today. ##@§¬## PO's I had also found the upper wishbones the wrong way round. Not to mention the cracked lower fulcrum brackets and stearing brackets. Can't wait to see what real handling feels like on a 4. Thanks Richard, Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard V Posted January 29, 2009 Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 New trunnions on their way from Moss today. ##@§¬## PO's I had also found the upper wishbones the wrong way round. Not to mention the cracked lower fulcrum brackets and stearing brackets. Can't wait to see what real handling feels like on a 4. Thanks Richard, Richard. The trunnions arrived today and, yes, the 3 degrees are obvious. I did not imagine it would be physicaly possible to fit the wrong trunnion so just assumed that what I had was correct, and that the differance was slight.......Just goes to show what is possible! When trying to mount them on the vertical link they are stiff just the same as the ones Rod and Jamie had. As I don't have a spare vertical link I will go with Rod's method of using oil. I'm a little disapointed by the machining around the grease seal area, which looks like it would tear the seal up in minutes. A little more time spent with some emery paper and a file and they should be ok though Im glad I went back for a second look at my origional trunnions, so thanks to the Forum once again. Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard V Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 I have spent a good 3 hours this morning with lots of oil and elbow grease to get the new trunnions freed up. After some work with a rat tailed file to take the burrs off, I was just starting to think the first one was ready to fit. I ran a tap down the thread for the grease nipple and went to install it. Imagine my dissapointment when the steel end cap started to spin in the trunnion On further investigation, I found that the swaged portion of the trunnion is cracked round half its diameter. A check of the second one shows that its end cap also spins over about 60° with only very light spanner pressure on the grease nipple. I will be in contact with Moss in the morning. But has anyone elce had this problem, and do Revington use the same supplier? Thanks, Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ludolillo Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 I changed my trunnions last summer and had new ones from Moss. The man who made the work says that they were ok. I can say that the steering was hard for some days , but probably there has been a mistake about the lubricant in the trunnions, oil or grease ? I have now the old trunnions in my hands , they are surely 3° castor and are marked : BRIT.PAT. 645627 E 3 - PT N° 5L02202 R : EW DIE N° 6 BRIT.PAT. 645627 C3 - PT N° 5L02202 EW DIE N° 4 L ciao max Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RAHTR4 Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 Max, Those part numbers that you quote are the 0 degree trunnions that were fitted to early TR4's up to CT6390. If you have this type fitted to your car it should also have the early type plate fabricated upper wishbone arms, 100695 and 100696, with a single bolt fixed top ball joint part 200772. Regards, Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ludolillo Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 Richard, my TR4 is 1964 ,CT 28559 LO, upper wishbone arms and joint ball are the same of TR4A. Tomorrow I'll post a picture of the trunnions . max Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ludolillo Posted February 2, 2009 Report Share Posted February 2, 2009 Richard, my TR4 is 1964 ,CT 28559 LO, upper wishbone arms and joint ball are the same of TR4A.Tomorrow I'll post a picture of the trunnions . max I try to post the puoto Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rhodri Posted February 2, 2009 Report Share Posted February 2, 2009 Yes Ludolillo, they are definitely 3* trunnions! Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RAHTR4 Posted February 2, 2009 Report Share Posted February 2, 2009 Max, All very strange as my original Stanpart 3 degree trunnions were marked as 5L02217.R & 5L02218.L I subsequently bought two new original Stanpart trunnions that turned out to be 0 degree and they were both marked 5L02202. So it certainly seems that you have the correct type fitted. Regards, Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.