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TR2 Dynamo to Alternator Conversion


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I have an early long door TR2 and wish to uprate my illumination for night-time driving. I have aquired a TR7 alternator at a nominal cost and would like to install this unit in the TR2. I am hoping to fit the wide belt dynamo pulley onto the alternator to avoid having to buy an expensive conversion kit . I use the car very little and am happy to retain the inefficient wide belt system which will also avoid the need to strip off the front apron to gain access to the other two pullies.

 

Does anyone have any experience of this manner of conversion , please?

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If it's a TR2, you MUST first convert to negative earth, since ALL alternators assume that arrangement.

Then see my article in TRaction 118 (also in Section J4 of the Technicalities CD), in which I describe the fitment of a TR7 alternator to my TR4. You can use the old fan belt, but it is not ideal because it's a bit short when an alternator is fitted, and you'll find difficulty getting it onto the pulley, even with the alternator rammed hard against the block! But it can be done - I ran that way until my water pump failed and I decided to convert to an internally-notched, narrow belt - what a relief!

You will need to modify the mounting bracket which bolts to the engine block - that's detailed in my article (or you can purchase one from Revington TR, I believe).

If you do not have access to TRaction or the CD, e-mail me (ifcornish@btinternet.com) and I'll scan the article for you.

Ian Cornish

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Mr RedDevil

 

not too sure what bulbs are fitted to a TR2 but if similar to TR4A then why not fit H4 Xenon at apprx £20/pair.

 

Fitting an alternator will not give you brighter lights on its own.

Fitting higher power bulbs may necesitate the replacement of your wiring loom (in part).

H4 Xenon give much more light with no extra power usage.

 

Roger

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If you only 'use the car very little', then the dynamo is perfectly adequate, but I suggest you remove the sealed beam light units if they are still fitted and replace them with Wipac Quadoptics. I have used these on my TR3A for many years and have just bought a pair for Lynda's TR4A. TRGB supplied me with a pair and swapped the standard H4 bulbs for Xenons. I haven't fitted them yet, but was told I don't need to upgrade the wiring or fit a relay (although this is worth doing to preserve the lighting switch contacts and reduce the high current from the original wiring).

 

There is a modern wide notched belt which is a direct replacement for the standard one and is easier to fit and apparently lasts longer. I've rarely had a standard belt fail and the new one has only been on for 3000 miles so far, but expect it to outlast me.

Edited by BrianC
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I converted to an alternator as I drive my TR3 quite a bit. I also put an upgraded fused/relayed wiring harness in place for the lights http://www.advanceautowire.com/ that was a great improvement. I wired it all thru a dummy (gutted) regulator for a stock look on the firewall.

I found the alternator did improve the brightness of all of the lights...dash, tail, spots and headlights.

I'd suggest new wiring before going to H4 or higher output beams as the stock system routes the current thru the switch and is not relayed as is a modern system. That is much more current going thru your lightswitch than it was designed for. Some work fine but I've seen others blow Lucas smoke from the dash and a melting wire situation isn't real nice.

The other advantage is the ability to add electrical upgrades...spots, fogs, upgraded brake lights etc. without overloading the system.

Is the alternator you will be using a 3 wire or single wire?

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If you only 'use the car very little', then the dynamo is perfectly adequate, but I suggest you remove the sealed beam light units if they are still fitted and replace them with Wipac Quadoptics. I have used these on my TR3A for many years and have just bought a pair for Lynda's TR4A. TRGB supplied me with a pair and swapped the standard H4 bulbs for Xenons. I haven't fitted them yet, but was told I don't need to upgrade the wiring or fit a relay (although this is worth doing to preserve the lighting switch contacts and reduce the high current from the original wiring).

 

There is a modern wide notched belt which is a direct replacement for the standard one and is easier to fit and apparently lasts longer. I've rarely had a standard belt fail and the new one has only been on for 3000 miles so far, but expect it to outlast me.

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Ian, thank you so much for your speedy response and the information sent later by e mail. A real help and cant wait to get on with the job as soon as Christmas is behind us#And thank you to all other respondants to my query.

This is the first time I have used the forum and not really sure if this is the correct way to thank all those who offered very helpful advice . Have a good Chrismas you a'll, ya hear?

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Dear Reddevil,

I think it's a very nice way to thank all those involved for their assistance and also to let other readers (is that the correct term?) know that the Forum has provided speedy and helpful advice, which can only help promote the service (which is what the Forum is) and help others enjoy their TRs.

Ian Cornish

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