linklaw Posted November 25, 2008 Report Share Posted November 25, 2008 I have a straight axle TR4a and have read that it came equipped with an adjustable steering column. I would like to adjust the length of the steering column toward the driver as I am experiencing interference between the shift lever and steering wheel. Can someone give some guidance on how the adjustment is accomplished and how much length can be increased. Thanks. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob-menhennett Posted November 25, 2008 Report Share Posted November 25, 2008 Hi As my left hooker TR4 came from Pennsylvania I felt duty bound to answer this one !! Adjustable ...yes, Much ....no In the engine bay where the steering exits the bulkhead, thats the firewall, you will see a clamp.There is a grub screw and a locking nut.The grub screw bears down on a cut out part of the steel rod, the length of which dictates the "adjustment". So, release the locking nut, grab an Allen key and loosen the grub screw.Spray with WD40 or other light oil so that it moves freely.Jump in the drivers seat and raise steering wheel,checking the self cancelling mechanism, for the indicators ,still engage.Jump out and tighten grub screw...whilst holding this firm with the Allen key tighten the locking nut with a spanner. Check for free movement and take for gentle test drive to ensure all is well. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Smokey Posted November 25, 2008 Report Share Posted November 25, 2008 There is actually quite a bit of adjustment: about 2". As well as undoing the locking nut and jam nut in the engine compartment, you need to undo the two bolts that hold the steering column under the dash/facia so that the steering column can slide back. I would recommend pulling the steering column back as far as possible to give you maximum clearance around the steering wheel, especially for an original 16" wheel like I have. Pull back the wheel until the locking nut is just forward of the outer steering column in the engine compartment, then tighten the two bolts under the dash, tighten the lock nut finger tight to allow the column to collapse in a collision as it was designed to do, and then tighten the jam nut quite tight. You'll probably scratch some paint off the steering column as you pull it back, so it may require a touch-up. You'll have a lot more clearance around the wheel. Using a shop manual or the Haynes manual will make this go smoother, because the construction of the steering column is not intuitive. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted November 25, 2008 Report Share Posted November 25, 2008 It's a very, very long time since I adjusted the steering on a TR4A, but I would recommend disconnecting the battery first and being extremely careful not to over-stretch or chafe any of the wiring attached to the column. Keep a fire extinguisher handy when you reconnect, just in case. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
linklaw Posted November 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2008 Thanks gents. I will try it this coming weekend and will follow up here with the results. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Smokey Posted November 26, 2008 Report Share Posted November 26, 2008 On closer review, there are actually two brackets holding the steering column under the dash/facia, each with two bolts. One bracket is bolted to the flange at the bottom of the fascia, and the other is on the firewall. You will need to loosen both to move the steering column back. The owners manual explains it, but it might be even easier with the workshop manual. You can also check out the parts involved in the Moss catalogue drawing. And yes, disconnect the battery before you start. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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