Menno van Rij Posted August 8, 2008 Report Share Posted August 8, 2008 (edited) Hi all, It's been a busy week: first I had to repair my Saab. (Electrical niggle, problem solved), then I had to finish my s/screens (see the other topic) and I saved the best for last: The carburators are back on! Alan has been busy with the electrics. All but the under-dash electrics are in place now. We he was busy at the rear of the car, there was room under the bonnet to install the carburartors. These carbs. were totally refurbshed and polished last winter and they were on the shelf ready to be installed. Last Spring I bought a lot of stuff from The Roadster Factory and they gave me a heatshield for free. That's in place too. After that, Alan routed the fuel pipe from the tank to the inside of the left inner wing. I've bought a Weber fuel tap and with the help of large P-clips it will be installed next week. When mounting the heatshield, we debated the fuel pipe route under the bonnet: "Why mounting a heatshield when you are routing the fuel pipe along the hot engine, under the hot water pump to the front carburator?" I had vapour lock problems with my Spitfire in the past and I rerouted the pipe along the bulkhead. I think that I will to the same with this car: from the pump upwards, along the bulkhead, behind the battery and then attached to the rear carb. What's your idea? For you with 20/20 vision: there's something 'strange' with the inlet manifold: there's a bolt between the carbs.: it's the attachment for a brake servo. For now it's plugged off. Below are some pics. More pics on Photobucket. Regards, Menno Edited August 8, 2008 by Menno van Rij Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Maddock Posted August 8, 2008 Report Share Posted August 8, 2008 Just been looking at your restoration photo P1000396.JPG What are they? thought I had seen it all Hi all, It's been a busy week: first I had to repair my Saab. (Electrical niggle, problem solved), then I had to finish my s/screens (see the other topic) and I saved the best for last: The carburators are back on! Alan has been busy with the electrics. All but the under-dash electrics are in place now. We he was busy at the rear of the car, there was room under the bonnet to install the carburartors. These carbs. were totally refurbshed and polished last winter and they were on the shelf ready to be installed. Last Spring I bought a lot of stuff from The Roadster Factory and they gave me a heatshield for free. That's in place too. After that, Alan routed the fuel pipe from the tank to the inside of the left inner wing. I've bought a Weber fuel tap and with the help of large P-clips it will be installed next week. When mounting the heatshield, we debated the fuel pipe route under the bonnet: "Why mounting a heatshield when you are routing the fuel pipe along the hot engine, under the hot water pump to the front carburator?" I had vapour lock problems with my Spitfire in the past and I rerouted the pipe along the bulkhead. I think that I will to the same with this car: from the pump upwards, along the bulkhead, behind the battery and then attached to the rear carb. What's your idea? For you with 20/20 vision: there's something 'strange' with the inlet manifold: there's a bolt between the carbs.: it's the attachment for a brake servo. For now it's plugged off. Below are some pics. More pics on Photobucket. Regards, Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Menno van Rij Posted August 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2008 Hi Tom, These are the door pockets! I managed to get a pair from a man who is (was) also busy restoring a TR3A. He made two pair of these pockets. On pair for himself, the other from leftover material. He sold these on the internet for 5 euros: the price that he paid for the materials. The man who made them is a professional carpet layer and furniture re-upholsterer. He used the professional products that come with his profession. Later I found out what the 'originals' from a well known supplier look like... The ones on the picture are made of sturdy cardboard, hotglued together and rivited too. My local upholsterer did a great job re-upholstering my seats and making new door plates. He incorperated the doorpockets in his design. It looks great! Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
angelfj Posted August 8, 2008 Report Share Posted August 8, 2008 Just been looking at your restoration photo P1000396.JPG What are they? thought I had seen it all Menno: Is this a fuel cut-off? Where will you mount it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Menno van Rij Posted August 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2008 Hi Frank, Yes it's a fuel cut off. Just like the one here. But off course, Alan gave it his own 'signature'. First, we disconnected the yellow handle on top, than sandblasted it and painted it Firetruck Red, just like all other important parts under the bonnet (dipstick, heater valve, TDC-point on the front engine cover). Than we took two P-clips, removed the rubber insert and shaped them to fit over the tap. Below you can see -not so clear- pictures of the place where it's going to be: Way down on the left inner wing, below the wiring loom, below the windscreen washer bottle. Alan used his famous rivets: these have coiled inserts: you can use a parker to clamp them down. Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vivdownunder Posted August 9, 2008 Report Share Posted August 9, 2008 Hi Menno, Your inlet manifod is the last version as used on 3A/3B's, and the brake servo vacuum boss was blank, so someone must have tapped and plugged it. Some of us are not convinced that heat shields actually help, as the ones I've seen as just SS metal with no fibre type true insulating material attached. They seem more a dress up item according to those who race really quick TR's. There might be some benefit with heat soak from the exhaust manifold up to the underside of the carbies when the car is stationary, but I'd like to see some "before and after" test data. Regarding the fuel line to the carbies, IMHO they look better run as per the original route. All you need to avoid any evaporation problems is an insulated clamp onto the bolt of the thermostat housing. I just widened out the original clamp, and used a short section of fuel hose as an insulator. Over the last two summers it hit 106F/42C with no evap problems, other than to the driver !. The fuel line must avoid touching the radiator bypass hose too. I've seen a few cars with the fuel line to the carbies running around the back of the engine, and again just my opinion, although neat, it just looked wrong, particularly if copper was used instead of bright finish piping. If you go as suggested, I'm confident you could spend summer down in the heat of Athens without any drama. Cheers, Viv. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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