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Differential Bridges


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Hi all,

 

I have now removed the body (intact) and have been busy removing the suspension from both sides of the rear..really enjoying this..seriously!.

The diff bridges, front and rear are in a terrible state. The front bridge had a pin missing and the previous owner had a some threaded rod and a piece of wood in there as a packer..????. I have trolled through the forums and found references to strengthening both bridges but no pics. Can anyone help me out here with suggestions (and hopefully some pics) as to what the best course of action would be?. All advice gratefully received.

 

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Cheers

 

Tony (Perth down under)

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....some threaded rod and a piece of wood in there as a packer...

 

Stainless rod, nice big washer, decent bit of hardwood, jolly good. The wood should be treated with teak oil to prevent it from rotting. :P

 

There is some info on strengthening in the Roger Williams book if you have a copy, but CTM as johnny250 has posted, are probably the chassis experts.

 

Ivor

Edited by 88V8
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With the chassis stripped and inverted gaining access to the underside, just cut pieces of tin to fit inside said diff bridge, this forms a box with existing/replaced brackets. I also added a plate to the top of the bridge to increase strength.

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Ta muchly fella's. I like the plate idea especially folded down the sides too (thanks Eyetee). I can then weld the supports for the pins and make it stronger. I don't have that book (yet) Ivor, but will have a look for it. I have some Triumph guy's coming over the weekend and will seek their input too. Thanks again.

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Here are a couple of pics of what i did to my "250" frame...

 

 

Great stuff, a picture is worth a thousand words. Thanks for taking the time to post em, much appreciated. The box sections with the pins look terrific and strong.

Question for you though, why did'nt you extend the welded angle all the way along the bridge to give it more strength? is there a reason that I have missed...remember I'm new to all this but its so enjoyable now that I've retired and can do my own thing..

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Hi Lads

 

apologies for nicking into this thread

 

when i take the diff out i was going to fit a strengthner kit from CTM, but the body wont be off

 

will it be just as good as i am not accessing/strengthening form the top

 

Mitch (heliguy) why do the side plates have holes in ?

 

regards

 

david

Edited by dblenk
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I don't have that book (yet) Ivor, but will have a look for it.

 

Here it is.

Worth reading from cover to cover before you do much more.

There's a companion volume on 'improving'.

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TRIUMPH-TR5-250-TR6-...86.c0.m14.l1318

 

Ivor

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Hi Tony from down under,

 

maybe this will help ?

 

http://s509.photobucket.com/albums/s333/lu...nt=P9150155.jpg

 

 

For the full story "a TR6 reborn", the full pic history of the rebuilding of my 73 US TR6

 

see : http://s509.photobucket.com/albums/s333/lucasTR6/

 

 

It took me 5 years but now I enjoy every day driving the TR6.

 

Greetz

 

Lucas.

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Tony, I felt that all the bending forces would be between the vertical part of the diff bridge, and where the spring is mounted. I have seen some of them crack there before. I felt 6" ( 3 on either side of the vertical piece) would be enough. I also welded a smaller piece underneath. Its all painted nice and shiney so the picture did not turn out that well, but you will get the idea.

 

As far as the holes in the plates to box the diff pins in................ i just copied a drawing that had been floating around on the net for awhile. I always assumed ( bad word ) that the head of welding the plates on will have destroyed what primer or paint was in that area, and the holes were there so apply some sort of anti-corrosion compound. That is what i did.

 

 

 

Cheers,

 

Mitch

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post-3030-1218211075_thumb.jpg

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As far as the holes in the plates to box the diff pins in................ i just copied a drawing that had been floating around on the net for awhile. I always assumed ( bad word ) that the head of welding the plates on will have destroyed what primer or paint was in that area, and the holes were there so apply some sort of anti-corrosion compound. That is what i did.

 

Sorry all, it should read "heat" of welding the plates, not "head"

Also it should read "to" apply some sort of anti-corrosion, not "so" apply.

 

 

cheers,

 

Mitch

 

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Thanks heaps for the feedback, I do have that book in my 'collection' and will read through again, cheers 88V8.

 

Thanks heaps to Lucas for the pics on your restoration, extremely informative and useful to me and a great record of a good restoration. It really is a good feeling to know I'm not on my own and thanks go to Mark for coming over to my place and giving me advice.

 

Cheers

 

Tony (Perth down under)

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